1st Gen R50 Cooper Most liked posts in thread: R50 misfiring on cylinder #1

Just got the MINI home, this poor thing needs some help, noticed the cooling fan running on high when I turned it off, quick check using the AC the low speed fan isn't turning on. I also noticed a weird metallic noisy while it's idling, thinking maybe an idler or belt tensioner. To think I haven't even got to really looking at it. Oh and the door handle on the driverside doesn't open from the inside.

 

Finished checking the compression *cold*
#1: 50 psi
#2: 90 psi
#3: 90 psi
#4: 80 psi

*hot*
#1: 91 psi
#2: 200 psi
#3: 200 psi
#4: 150 psi

#4 also appears to be low when warm, the cold numbers were only cranked for 6 cycles, warm I went to max. #4 was taking longer to achieve so I stopped it early.

 

I don't think the owner is interested in upgrading the head to an R53, she just wants the car running right for her daughter. I plan on bringing the head over to Way motor works to have him go through it and fix whats needed.

Does swapping to an R53 head require additional work though? or is it pretty much drop on and run with it?

 

Was wondering if you guys could provide input as to what I should be charging for all the work I am doing on this MINI. I am helping out a co worker but at the same time my time isn't free, normally I work for beer but a head job is a little more effort than a brake job.

So far my list is looking like this
oil pan gasket
crank sensor gasket
drain/fill trans (midlands 5 speed, noticed some gear chatter figure it might help to get some fresh MTL in there)
passenger axle replacement
Fix low speed fan resistor
Fix door lock cable
Replace belt tensioner
Replace engine damper pulley (its missing pieces of rubber around the ring, and is probably ready to be changed)
Remove/reinstall head (after the rebuild which im not doing)

I am also replacing the upper engine mount, thermostat, timing tensioner, various gaskets etc but all those items are already off so I see the labor over lapping.

She is buying all the parts, I am doing my best to find the best prices, pretty much if I won't use it then I won't buy it for her.

I tallied up the above items and really have no rhyme or reason on the pricing for my labor, and came up to 1200, I have seen what she was quoted for the axle, oil pan, head removal/investigation, and door and used that to semi influence why I can up with the number. Her quote was 3K, with the additional items I have found my labor and the worst case scenario for the head rebuild, and parts I have it around 2400, to me that is acceptable, the additional parts are driving the cost higher, also I don't believe her quote included the head rebuild, just removal and inspection.

Just curious what you guys think? would that be asking too much or am I low balling myself? I haven't discussed numbers prior to starting, this will actually be the first time i've ever been paid to work on a car lol.

Sorry for the long post, I almost feel bad asking to be paid for stuff, but I also don't want to turn into the office mechanic, I have a hard time saying no.

 

The 1200 is my labor, she is buying all parts needed and paying to have the head refreshed. I'm just trying to find out if I'm asking too much or if it's reasonable.

 

So I will be getting the head back this week, what is the best way to clean the block surface? I have heard using a scotch brite pad should do the trick. anything I want to be aware of before I start scrubbing? I plan on vacuuming out the cylinders as there is some loose carbon on the pistons.

 

Car is all back together, ran into issues getting a new axle for it. It runs great, only issue I have now is the heat doesn't work coolant temps look great bled all 3 bleeder left max heat running on low etc. Even opening the bleeders warm no air comes out. Cooling fan turns on when it should etc. Is there a trick to bleeding a non s? Typically on my s I run it to 195 open the bleeder let air out top off then make sure the fan turns on and I'm done.
Before it's asked yes I bled the screw on the metal pipe by the therm housing as well. Any thoughts? I don't know if she was having heat issues prior to me working on it.

 

Did some more bleeding tonight still no heat, put a stethoscope on the blower box and it sounds like the servo for the temp control is getting stuck, compared it to my R53 and the servo on my car stops clicking after a second, on the vert it doesn't sound like it ever fully opens.

I do have another question because I can't remember, if I by chance installed the thermostat backwards (not sure if it's possible) would the heat not work? I don't see any odd temp symptoms cruising temps sit around 91C. I would think if it were backwards the car would over heat.

I'm debating on pulling the thermostat just to check my install now, reassembly is all a blur at this point.

 

Should really change the thread name to a poor neglected convertible is finally getting help.... I've been driving it for the past few days put about 250 miles on it (she insisted on me driving it so ill keep the miles off my mini :wink

The other morning I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor, my initial thought was crap I have a coolant leak (there was a questionable hose going to the heater core). Then I caught some of the drip and smelled it, friggen gear oil. My initial thought was the drain plug was leaking which would explain the RTV on it when I removed it, nope I can't be so lucky the damn passenger axle seal is leaking, here's the weird part, it literally only drops about half dollar spot then stops, and only leaks after driving. There's no residue of spray off the axle etc, I even jacked up the car and watched the small stream dribble down the bell housing then off. after the car really cooled down I wiped the oil off and checked an hour later, still dry. I'm guessing I caught this before it became really bad.

I've ordered a new seal and hope it isn't a pain in the ass to change. She returns next Friday so I really need to get this thing finally sorted out by the end of this coming weekend.