THIS.... the bolded text above. Maybe Eric@helix or Herbie-53-guy can help point you towards this gremlin. They took care of Blake's MINI two years ago at the dragon when it had a bunch of electrical gremlins. Turned out to be this harness short.
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Some times we get so caught up in all the computer/electronics we forget the basics.
Just like back in the old days Spark Fuel Timing Compression.
Thats why I like working on my Indian. Its simple like me.-
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Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
First things first. Check (safely) that you have spark. It's pretty easy to do. The interwebs will have tons of how-tos. That'll probably be your culprit, and if it failed completely and suddenly, it's more likely a relay/fuse/ground fault than something like worn plugs or a failing coil. Plugs and coils tend to fade to death vs. total and complete sudden failure.
If you do have good spark, you're on to fuel. This will be more involved. First, check that you have gas in the tank. If so, you'll need to check fuel pressure at the rail which involves a special tool (available at any Auto Zoney type store), removing and replacing your intercooler and cranking.-
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
First step get a code reader and check for engine codes.
Check or change your plugs and double check all your connections.
I have had even new plugs fail and the car not start. Buy OEM NGK plugs.
Put your car on charger so you do not kill a battery trouble shooting it.-
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Aha, I didn't know it was bad To run car off alternator alone. I thought it was the alternator that that primarily ran the electronics once the car was running. Okay, I'm going to try and disconnect the power to the pump next.
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What year is your R53?
There are some weird gremlin stories out there. For example on certain model years there is a spot on the firewall that rubs the harness and causes a hard to find short that tricks many people into replacing the body control module when it is actually a short in the harness.
Maybe this will trigger some of the brainiacs here on where this might be coming from.-
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Did you check the fuse box under the hood. There is a relay in there at times looks like it's fine, but has wiggled lose some.
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I'll have to find someone with a code reader, since I can't get the car out of my driveway without a tow. There is no CEL light, could there still be codes though?
Also, I did look in the fuse box under the hood, but I didn't notice a relay for fuel issues , is there one under there for spark? I'll check that. -
Update
Gave up on my troubleshooting . Had it towed , got charged 240 for them to take the belt off and discover the alternator was seized. Can't believe I didn't think of taking the belt off myself ! Well anyways , I spared myself the 700 for them to replace the alternator next, bought the cheapest one off rock auto and installed it yesterday.
The old alternator was indeed seized , and the housing was cracked nearly in half.
So the car starts again , but it's all wonky. Engine purrs and operates fine, but the power steering comes online off and on, the gauges turn on and off intermittently , the TCS. Light comes on randomly , the air bag light comes on randomly - and the kicker , the power steering pump stays on with the car off and the key out .
I ended up pulling the negative battery cable last night. I didn't notice the pump was running until about two hours after I turned the car off. The battery cable was warm to the touch.
I am theorizing that the power steering pump overloaded the alternator and seized it. I called MINI about extended warranty , my build date of May 2005 doesn't make the pump replacement warranty cut off. Does my model have a fuse or relay I can pull? I don't mind driving without power steering until I get a replacement pump. -
Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
I'm not certain how the pump (if its going bad) effects the gauges. Still sounds like an alternator/battery/grounding problem to me. What alternator amp did you get?
Do a simple load test on the battery with the car running (probe across terminals at idle) whats the voltage reading? -
Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
and too...
The power steering over loading the alternator I guess could happen but there's a fuse, F39, on the drivers side pillar fuse box that "associates" these two electrically. If its blown i.e. overload, then the alternator isn't charging the battery, then the system sees a low voltage and the pump stops working as it needs to see ~13V. Its a hungry bi-atch especially with the wheels turned full right or left (or WOT on some twisty's)
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
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Voltage while car running: 14.4V
Voltage car off: 12.4V
Voltage with car running , and then battery unplugged: 17.7 V. When I unplugged the battery cable , the gauges started going bonkers . Why is the alternator voltage so high ? Is the pump causing it to overcompensate ? Or is the alternator bad ? I may have a lemon alternator , but considering my last alternator , a Denso 105A was nearly cracked in half, I'm not sure it's a coincidence that something's causing the alternators to go crazy. -
The alternator only charges the battery. The car really won't run without a good battery. Your voltages sound about right and things going bonkers without the battery in the circuit is expected behavior.
and from one site I googled about how the charging system works this warning:
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
I'm not following this "and then battery unplugged: 17.7 V. "
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Pretty sure he means got the car running, then took the + cable off the battery so
the car was running off the alternator alone, and the voltage went up to 17.7V.
I'm thinking a new alternator with a functioning voltage regulator should limit the
output to about 14.5 V give or take a little. -
Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
@Cristo
BTW, BRG for the world! :cornut: -
Yes, it did shoot up without the battery in the circuit, but it's a steady 14.4V with the battery in the circuit.
Is it possible the steering pump fried the voltage regulator? For the first 3 hours after the alternator replacement there were no electrical gremlins. Now I have a flashing DSC light , air bag light , ABS light, flickering gauges.
Unplugging the power steering pump has been a relieving silence though. It was quite hot, running continuously with the car off.
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