I'd leave the pump out of the circuit and start eliminating things. Might be worth testing the alternator at a local auto place - auto zone, etc. If it tests ok then the battery is suspect. Although battery voltages measure ok there could be bad cells. I can't recall if you mentioned the battery age or new. the clue for me is all the warning lights and weird gauges. These things HATE HATE HATE a less than perfect battery and these are usually the signs.
Be patient.
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
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Is there anywhere in particular that water likes to sneak into causing electrical havoc? Like I said, the first few hours after I installed the alternator, all was peachy. Later, there was a big thunderstorm and I was driving through a lot of rain. Not sure if there's any relation.
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
Were you able to test the alternator? And with the pump removed (circuit wise) does the problem still exist?
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I have not tested the alternator yet. I parked two days ago after unplugging the power steering pump, but still experiencing the odd gauge dancing. Then yesterday, I went out to try driving it again- but th battery was utterly dead. There must be an additional parasitic draw, or perhaps the battery was pooched from the pump going as long as it had the day before . Anyhow, battery is trickle charging , I'll update once I put it back in the car
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Firebro17 Dazed, but not ConfusedLifetime Supporter
- Sep 18, 2010
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Test the battery. The trickle might not be enough to revive it if it was already headed south.
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Yes, I'd like to know where to look for harness chafing.
I have not driven it to an auto zone to have the alternator tested, so far I'm too weirded out by the Christmas lights and ding dong sounds. But the pump is UNPLUGGED, and there are still plenty of gremlins.
DSC light comes on intermittently , brake light, ABS light, tire pressure light , air bag light , service engine light. Lights come On/off, ding dong, sometimes even has intervals of seeming perfectly fine. The gauges also peg themselves randomly then go back again , similar to what happens when you do an ECU reset.
When I did my first voltage test with car running , my probes were on the battery terminals. I decided to do a second volt test, between the positive terminal in the engine bay, and the large ground terminal on the motor mount. My readings were 13.4v to 15.25v, up and down, all over the road, never steady. Does this confirm the voltage regulator is kaput on my BRAND NEW, not even a reman, alternator ?
It's worth noting a second time :
1. The old alternator was seized due to the housing having cracked in half.
2. After installing the new alternator , I had no electrical gremlins for a solid 3 hours of driving.
3. Is it possible the continuous draw of the steering pump fried the previous alternator to the point of cracking ? And now it has fried the new alternators voltage regulator?
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