Most liked posts in thread: R53 Engine Swap - Crank but no start diagnosis

I do have the cam lock tool.

It seems that the cam key is at least in place. Getting to the crank sprocket to check that key will definitely take me a bit more time, haha.

While I'm waiting for my timing kit to arrive, I'll try to take the guide on that side out and inspect it for damage etc. That should at least be easy enough to do for now.

 

I was discussing this with someone on another site and they mentioned something interesting...

They said that the alignment markings on the sprockets and the colored chain links are supposed to move relative to each other, and that it takes ~27 full revolutions for them to be back in alignment with each other...

In other words once I start cranking, I should be expecting those markings to move out of alignment with each other? That seems odd, but I'm wondering now if that is actually supposed to be the case?

 

I just had a "d'oh" moment myself here... of course the markings would be off once you start spinning the sprocket... its circumference is less than the length of the chain so it will revolve at a different rate than the odd colored chain link comes around.

Okay, that makes me feel better. However, I do note 8 distinct "click" noises upon every revolution. Hoping to figure out what that might before I button things back up. I'll post a short video later when I get a chance.

 

For the wet sanding, I was just trying to take off a layer of rust that had built up from the engine sitting for a while. It was keeping the cylinders from moving smoothly even with oil to lubricate. It didn't seem worth using the hone, but admittedly, this was my first time trying something like that. Also worth noting, I only sanded cylinders 3 & 4, and those ironically have the highest relative compression.

I wouldn't say I "re-built" the block per se. I only removed the head to check the cylinders and replace the head gasket, and then the oil pan to clean it out/put on a new gasket. The rest of the block stayed together. The head wasn't reworked/milled.

Fair point on clearing the codes and seeing what comes back. I will see what turns up. Thanks!

 

Yeah, in hindsight it probably would have been the right call to send it back, but I was eager to get moving on the project, so I accepted that flaw once I saw I was able to get the engine cranking by hand. Likely will have to just make it work at this point.

The code reader I have is just a cheap Bluetooth reader off Amazon that pairs with the Torque app on my phone. I have a copy of the Haynes Repair Manual, but not the Bentley manual that I've heard about and seen excerpts from.

I've done a number of smaller jobs on other cars like clutch swaps, center diff on a subaru, a number of bolt ons on various cars, etc. But this is my first time with a project of this scale, so I definitely could have missed something..

 

Well I was able to check the timing this morning and it was off by about 4 teeth.

I got it realigned, but then when I went to crank the engine manually, it would click about 8 times per full revolution, and by the time I got back around to TDC, the alignment was off by a few teeth. As I continued to crank, it continued to become more misaligned.

It seemed as if the tensioner guide on the side where the tensioner actually contacts was holding the chain firmly, but the other side there appears to be slack in the chain.

I've got a whole timing chain kit replacement in the mail, but any thoughts on what specifically might be
wrong?

 

Update

I took the timing cover off and replaced the timing chain, the guide rails, the tensioner, and the cam sprocket. Made sure to have everything aligned. Checked everything thrice.

Also put on an OEM cam position sensor.

Buttoned everything back up. Still no start. Getting a slightly louder sound when cranking (almost like partially burning fuel), but it still won't run on its own power.

I checked compression again, and now I'm getting 40-60 psi in all the cylinders, which is more than the 15-30 they were reading before, but of course still way too low.

I cleared the codes to see if anything new came up, and now I'm getting no codes at all. (how long would it take for new codes to show up if they were going to?)

At this point I'm at a bit of a loss given everything I've checked and replaced this far.

The only other thing I thought to try tomorrow will be to put new gas in. It's been sitting for about 6 months, and though I did put fuel stabilizer in back then, it might still have gone bad?

Any other suggestions??

 

Well, after a leak down test things are looking pretty bleak.

Cylinder 1 - 40% leakage (no noticeable hissing anywhere)

Cylinder 2 - 85% leakage (obvious hissing air coming from dipstick tube and oil fill cap)

Cylinder 3 - 50% leakage (slight hissing air from dipstick tube)

Cylinder 4 - 85% leakage (loud and obvious air from dipstick tube and oil cap)

Based on these results I'm assuming piston/piston ring/cylinder walls are the most likely culprits, meaning I'm probably not getting out of this without another disassembly. Probably going to start with an attempt to get a refund from Redline on the engine.