If you need parts from the dealer I'd recommend calling eminiparts.com they are most helpful folks.
http://www.eminiparts.com/
So will this upgrade fit under a 15 inch OEM wheel?
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Crashton Club Coordinator
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One of the advantages of the BBK is that the brake pads are cheaper.
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It depends on your BBK. The JCW kit is an outlier, I would toss that one out for comparison purposes, or at least add other BBK's, but otherwise your first post and comparison are nicely done. The reason the JCW pads/rotors are so expensive is they're a one-trick pony--about as small a brake niche as you'll find, whereas Wilwood, Outlaw, etc. are universal--the calipers and rotors can be used on many different cars, the only thing that needs to be changed is the dogbone, which is pretty simple to manufacture on a vehicle to vehicle basis.
For me, I get 2-3 days out of my rotors, 3-4 days out of pads, so it adds up quick, and cheaper rotors and pads help. It all depends on what you're using the car for. Ben (BThayer) is on the track a ton, and is approaching more from this angle than from a daily driver angle, in which case over the life of your car, the BBK pays itself off and then some if your car sees heavy track use, and that doesn't even take into account the improved performance.
A couple of other points: If you want to talk about BBK's, or any kit hitting the track, it's time to talk cooling.
Also, Motul 600 is a great fluid--it's what I use--but not so much for a Daily Driver, unless you're changing it every couple of months, or bleeding before each track session, which is a must (at least for me). It absorbs water and breaks down quicker, exactly what you don't want, it's not recommended for long-term use--not the type of stuff you want to leave in for a year or two (although that doesn't seem to stop people from doing it), that's not what it's designed for.-
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Excellent article. Thanks for sharing.
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mrntd Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
- Sep 30, 2011
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This is great and answers a lot of questions.
If I understand right I could go stage 3. Then if I want more I get a bigger rotor and the different carrier. -
The only things needed to move from Stage 3 to stage 4 is:
- Carriers
- Pads
- Rotors
You could easily get the Pads and Rotors in a kit from an eBay seller for 150 shipped. The carriers on the other hand will be the expensive part, as they are not easily available I found that ECSTuning.com is the best source and cheapest at 208 shipped for the pair.
Also note they list them as a left and right part, there is NO difference, the only thing that is done differently is how the guide pins are placed in the housing.
See there is two different types of pins in each carrier, one is just a solid steel pin, the other has a rubber dampener on it. Its placement in the carrier (top) dictates if its right or left.
ECS Tunning Part Numbers:
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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Real nice write up.....
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Crashton Club Coordinator
Thanks for getting back to me with that info. Very nice write up. Hope it finds its way into the library here.
I think brackets might be able to be sourced from a wrecking yard. -
Second you can source them from the bone yard, BUT if you do you are most likely going to get the whole setup:
Calipers
Carriers
Rotors
Lines
So if you score the 'carriers' at a bone yard, and it happens to come with all the parts for the right price, you would just jump straight to level 4, and that is wonderful.
My point of giving people the option and direction of level 3 is that its easy and cheap (being that you can do the whole thing for less than 200 w/ SS Lines).
In my personal path to the level 4, finding 2nd Gen Cooper S setup used was very difficult, and if you do it will not be cheap, but finding the 2nd Gen Cooper (non S) kit is Super easy and cheap.
35.oo each plus the shipping, this seems to be an average price. This one even has the Lines still. -
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
One minor errata: OEM caliper slide bushings are rubber, not plastic. You'd never be able to pull them out if they were plastic. Also, gray anti-seize works well as a lubricant. I'd recommend re-lubing every fall and when you change the pads.
I'd also suggest adding a section on various reasons why one might upgrade the brakes; certainly some kits achieve different objectives better than others. -
mrntd Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
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This is great. Thank you for such great information. I'm planing for the stage 3 right now.
Chuck maybe this would help you stay out of the water. -
Yes Anti-Seize is exactly what the the OEM manual says to use, I personally just like bronze impregnated lubricants for that additional protection.
As to the reason why one might want one kit over the other; to be perfectly honest I do not feel that I am qualified for that, I am just a guy that really like to tinker with a little bit of advance education, I am not a racer. The closest I have come to a track day is a BMW driving school day. -
EBC Red Stuff Pads:
R53 $91
R56 $91
R56 'S' $91
JCW BBK $114.74
Hawk Performance:
R53 $107
R56 base $85
R56 'S' $85
JCW BBK $284
Now this is based on a simple web search of two different dealers and the cost of the pad kits; you may be able to find them cheaper, but my quick research says that you are wrong.
I will agree that they should be cheaper as they are of a much simpler design that is manufacture with the quick change in mind. -
No, Bthayer is right--you're only looking at the JCW kit, where the pads are horrendously over priced. A wilwood kit, or one of the TSW kits, the pads are cheaper, I think the street pads I ran were like 50 or 60 bucks, and held up better than stock. I now run a VERY expensive BBK--my track pads are 85 bucks a set, street pads, even less. They hold up much better than Hawk, although I haven't tried the newer Hawk compounds, never tried EBC and never will.
EBC reds aren't perhaps the best example, they've fallen out of favor big time. Think good pads, like carbotechs, PF's, Rabestos offerings, Poly compounds, brakeman pads, etc., something people use on the track, that'll give you an idea.
And Rotors, mine are 100 bucks a rotor, 2 piece design, internal vanes, that's also a consideration. -
I know about the EBC pads failing, but I have to say I still really like their compound.
If the BBK kits that are not JCW are on the 60 to 80 range they are cheaper than some of the better non BBK pads even though you can get EBC and HAWK pads for the level 1 & 2 for as little as 63.oo$.
But I see your point the Rotors are not badly priced (sometimes, but still more than the cheaper non two part units) and the pads are less and much easier to change. BUT I am going to have to go through A LOT of pads to make up the price difference. -
To the OP, thanks for putting this together.
Its still very relevant for all of us who are picking up used R53's.
Note that nowdays you can find:
Reman R56 S calipers w/carriers for 160 to 200 for the pair at AZ/ Advance. Takes some of the clean up suffering out of the rebuild.
Plain 294mm rotors can also be had for under 100 for the pair at the same stores.
Turns this into a Level 4, for approx. $400 cost. -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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Firebro17 Dazed, but not ConfusedLifetime Supporter
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Just don't drink the OP's Kool-Aid.
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