Brakes Wheels 2nd Gen Tires Most liked posts in thread: R56 brake bleeding

So are all brake hoses crated equal? Or will some diffuse less then others?

 

Did mine a month or so back and used a variant on Ron's Mini's Garden Sprayer/Brake Bleeeder idea (see the 'how to's'). Worked fine and the car stops on a dime!

Only note was that you do not need to do the 15-20psi suggested, 10psi works just fine

 

I understand that is one of the main reasons to go to steel brake lines

 

This isn't a typical example, the reservoir had a crack and the slave had a blown seal, the slave's content and first two ounces of fluid from the slave's line were all water; the beading fluid in the pan is water.

 

So is there a how - to for the Gen 1 cars?

 

A segment in this how-to [ame=http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476]Brake Fluid Flush - Lone Star Mini Club Forums[/ame]

 

BMP has a clutch slave cylinder tool they SAY works with the MINI; anyone ever used it? It's like 25 bucks--I was thinking of getting it if works, just as added insurance to prevent a screw up.

How essential is it to bleed the clutch? I haven't done it yet. I've flushed/bled the brakes countless times for the track (basically before and after each event), but I haven't touched the clutch yet. Car only has 17,000 miles on it, but a substantial number of those are on the track.

 

Lets put it this way. BMW actually makes a tool for depressing the clutch the proper amount so as not to damage the diaphragm/seal inside the slave cylinder and assist in bleeding. So it would seem at least they think it should be done now and then.

 

Seems to me there would be benefits in keeping out any moisture buildup with the brake fluid through regular changes, including the clutch slave cylinder. In colder climates, moisture might cause problems with the clutch release.

 

+1

At one point in time when I was still running my old BBK I had to flush my brakes between each session. I average about 30+ track days each year.

 

So finally I know how water gets into the brake lines. Thanks for that

 

Sorry, but it doesn't really get into much detail on the clutch slave. A bit more in depth post would be great .

 

It's that simple; I would only add the slave plunger must be fully compressed, no gaps between the accordion sections on the boot.

 

Ok....thanks

As always a great help!

 

kimberlein verified air can be trapped in the slave, and bleeding the slave can improve clutch engagement in the R56. A simple gravity bleed of her slave yielded big bubbles and a section of clear fluid in the drain tube, most likely water. The R56 slave has a convenient finger actuated bleeder gate; no need for numerous turns with a wrench, just a half turn with thumb and forefinger. The plunger still must be compressed, but it offers less resistance than the R53, and although Kim used the early model OEM tool with an extension to take account for the deeper slave, the slave's plunger rod can be pressed inward by hand.

So it appears there is no bad voodoo lurking in the R56 clutch hydraulics that one may risk disturbing if bled.

 

Keith, I am wondering if you need to depress the clutch slave in the R56. I have attached a copy of the BMW TIS manual that discusses bleeding the clutch slave and it makes no mention of any special tool for that.

 

Fluids take the path of least resistance, so any air trapped ahead of the slave cylinder gate would not be forced out. I have the TIS and there are a few omissions in other procedures also.

EDIT: I think I see where it would be assumed the pressure plate spring would keep the plunger fully compressed, but there must be a point where the clutch release bearing is unloaded. While loosening the slave nuts it appeared the rod was not compressed all the way from what I could tell.

 

I can't believe you guys are going to 'make' me bleed my clutch slave. Oh the peer pressure is crushing me. :lol: