Well alright. If you insist you can have your thread back and I'll be quite.
Jim
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Crashton Club Coordinator
Hey Jim you have been quite, quite a funny guy.
I'll be quiet now.
Chuck your thread needs an alignment.
Back on topic...
BIG Pipes on a little car. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Here is some info from Cobb Tuning for exhaust design I digested as part of my DIY.
CobbTuning.com - Exhaust Design -
Chuck, personally I like the look of a single collector similar to what you see on a Boxster S. Oval design with a billet finish and a taper from top to bottom.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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I considered an Isosceles Trapezium (the Brit description was for the Mini heritage, and for you Agro), that would mimic the cutout in the bumper, and I may consider it as a later design. The whole setup will be fully interchangeable. Including the rear muffler. However designing Isosceles Trapezium muffler baffles although not impossible would be much more time consuming for me. So for now I sticking with the more MINI appropriate twin exhaust outlets. But thanks for the suggestion Mark
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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That's what the Brits call an Isosceles Trapezoid. I thought I would keep it in Mini-ease. -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Here's a Greek downpipe made by Akrapovic, in SS with a cat. 490 Euro's about $670.00 US + shipping. Wonder how it handles CEL's. Read somewhere where Riss Racing went under. Thought their DP looked looked good. This looks well made.
http://www.akrapovic.com/typo3conf/ext/user_products/mod1/uploads/products/evolution_exhaust_system_for_the_mini_cooper_s_r56_and_cooper_s_cabrio_r57_/mini_cooper_s_en_web.pdf -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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[ame]http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg348/DedRokGallery/047e6ff4.jpg[/ame] -
Rixter Well-Known Member
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Just a little update on my progress today...
With acknowledgement to Keith Huevo, I'm going with the simpler bolt up flanges, but three bolts instead of two. Better spreading of the clamping forces. And with respect to leaks (David in Germany), I have a little something up my sleeve so to speak. No, not gaskets. I'll share my idea for this when I start to build.
Had a little spare time today and whipped out a quickie Cad drawing for my exhaust flanges. These puppies will be 3/8" thick T304 SS. I should be able to do this for less than $20.00 each.
Here's a pic of the flange drawing.
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Just now received an 8' length of 2-1/2" OD perforated 16 Gage T304 SS tubing. This will be chopped up and made into a removable resonator that will also be rebuildable. The remaining length will become the tunable rebuildable rear muffler.
As viewed by the exhaust gasses.
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Where space is limited like it is in the channel in the middle area of the MINI, there's an issue with accessibility for at least one bolt in a three hole flange. If two holes are positioned up top, one bolt is in harm's way on the bottom. It's not problem in the rear area.
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They are so easy to just unbolt from the DP onto a creeper and pull out in one piece though, so not much of an issue IMO
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Thanks Keith and Adam for the input. I completely overlooked the accessibility issue of getting to the third fastener up inside the aluminum heat shield tunnel area. Good catch.
I'd like to make it as easy as possible to do change outs of the center resonator without dropping the entire exhaust.
Made a quick change to the flange drawing this morning.
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opcorn: so excited for your finished product!
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
Don't know if Riss is out of business but thier website is still up. Riss Racing (Kinda flaky though...)
I bought a used Riss Racing exhaust. It has the 3-bolt flanges. They are fine so long as you don't want to wrench on it while it's still on the car.I bolted to together on the ground then installed it as one piece.
It "re-uses" the stock V-band clamp at the down-pipe. I just went ahead and spent the $19 on a new clamp. The v-band clamps work but the surfaces need to be matched PERFECTLY when you cinch it down or you will have a leak at the down pipe. Mini fixed that problem for assembly by using a bit of exhaust tubing that sits inside the down pipe preventing the exhaust and down-pipe from sitting anyway but dead-nuts on.
So that's a long way of saying:
-2-bolt flange is a good call.
-V-band clamps are good but a b*tch to work with. :mad2:
-Big Pipes on little cars make me happy. :cornut:
Not that you really care about a drive-way mechanic's opinion. Good luck sir! -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Just a quick clarification on my part.
I have no intention of making and selling these exhausts and competing with the vendors on this forum. I intend to be completely transparent in the construction methods, and sources for the raw materials. I hope it's going to almost be like you guy's are here helping me from you living room with suggestions and recommendations.
I will weigh both the factory and this exhaust for comparisons. I have no intention of doing any form of dyno or flow testing. If I end up making something that is lighter than the stock factory JCW exhaust and perhaps sounds a little better, that can be acoustically tuned and easily rebuilt then I'll be satisfied. I will try and make a drive by sound clip of both systems for comparison (this is hard to do well, in my opinion).
If anyone else wants to make one, there should be all the info on this thread to do so.
Anyway, that the plan........ -
Crashton Club Coordinator
A completely transparent exhaust would be so cool. You could watch the smoke rings all the way from the turbo to the tips!
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