2nd Gen R56 Cooper R56 MAF problem; P113B DTC

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by mark1, Sep 24, 2016.

  1. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    I just bought a 2008 Mini Cooper Hatch Automatic, R56, N12 motor. It ran fine off the dealer's lot, but then started having some problems. I first noticed a hesitation; what I would have called an off-idle lean bog, if the car had a carb. Shortly afterwards the dash showed a check engine icon, which the dealer read as a loose gas cap (minor evap, possibly). I've now gotten my own code reader (Bluetooth -> Torque on Android Phone) and have read B2AAA, Body, P0100 PowerTrain Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit, P113B, PowerTrain Mass or Volume Airflow Correction Signal Plausibility too long, and P2187 PowerTrain System too lean st Idle bank 1. I found that the car ran fine with the MAF disconnected. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, with no benefit. I then replaced the MAF with a new Bosch part. But it is still showing the same error codes, and having similar kinds of problems. It also surges at idle (worse in Park than in Drive), and has occasionally stalled at a stop light.

    If anyone has had a similar problem, and found a good solution, I'd appreciate hearing it. Also, if anyone can provide a slightly less cryptic explanation of what a P113B actually means, that would be a help; it's got to be a clue, but the hint that "your correction signal may be too long" (or similar) is just not ringing any bells for me.

    Thanks,
    Mark
     
  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Welcome to MA! I'm a first Gen guy so I am not much help. But you have an S, how many miles does it have on it? It may be time for a walnut blasting due to carbon build up. One of the second gen guys will be along soon to give you more help
     
  3. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH New Member

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    N12 should not need a walnut cleaning....ever...still has port injection, as opposed to direct injection...

    One of my friends is a MINI parts counter guy...says the gen2 cars can have lots of MAF issues....cause is the aftermarket oiled filters....if you want an upgrade, use the dry foam style...
    He says the gen2 MAF is a cheaper style that cannot really be cleaned (or self clean, like many by a heating cycle)....they can be fouled pretty fast ...
    Not sure if that's your issue....but if the intake track around the filter and MAF is a bit oily...it might be an issue...
    And getting non-oem engine sensors are kinda iffy...have never had much luck with most any brand on non American cars.....Asian and European cars seem picky.
    Good luck....I had a gen1....a 2005...so it was different...
    Welcome too!!
     
  4. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    Thanks for the welcome, and reply. Mine is just a base hatch, not an S or anything performance (unless I got bargain I'm not aware of). The only upscale option I know of is the comfort access.
     
  5. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

    Mar 30, 2009
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    The BMW VIN Decoder can tell you everything that came on the car from the factory.
     
  6. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    One of the first things I checked was the filter; it's paper, not an oiled type. And when I pulled the original MAF, it looked really clean; but I cleaned it anyhow with the CRC MAF cleaner, just in case. That's when I ordered the replacement, thinking it just went bad, even though it wasn't dirty. And it was a brand new Bosch, with the same number as the original; I don't know what the OEM part was; I was thinking probably BMW used Bosch, but maybe I'm wrong on that.

    One question I had was whether things need to be reset by pulling the battery after having changed the MAF. I saw one post where someone said that's what a dealer told them; but some follow-on replies indicating that the information from the dealer may have been inaccurate
     
  7. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    Odd, but that particular VIN decoder does not work in my hands. It seems like it it accepts the anti-spam check, but then cycles back to the original screen. Other decoders have worked, but it seems like when I talk with a dealer or Mini USA, they can get more information quicker than I can, with the decoders that work for me.
     
  8. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I don't have any expertise on your generation 2 MAF problem but l Welcome to Motoring Alliance the best MINI forum on the interweb !!
     
  9. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    The thing that seems finally to have worked for me was, after clearing the codes with Torque on an Android phone, disconnecting the battery for a while (> 15 min), and then reconnecting the battery. (I'd thought initially this was not going to help because of a post on another forum.) However, one of the guys at the place where I had a hitch and trailer wiring harness installed, suggested that while the MAF itself didn't require any reset, other parts of the engine management system might still be remembering some settings based on bogus readings from the former bad MAF, and that a reset by battery off/on might make whoever it was had that bad memory, forget all about it. I'll see if the fix sticks.
     
  10. mark1

    mark1 New Member

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    #10 mark1, Oct 2, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
    R56, N12, P2187: System too lean at idle

    Unfortunately, the fix did not completely stick. After a bit of driving (tens of miles, not hundreds), the CEL came back on. However, I am now reading only the single code, P2187, Powertrain, System too lean at idle, bank 1, which is listed both as current and pending. If anyone has direct experience with this code on a MINI, particularly a 2d gen with a NA motor I'd appreciate hearing what they found.

    Meanwhile, I did find one site which had a reasonable-sounding approach: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2187 (and since I saw it on the internet so I know it must be 100% reliable); so I'll probably work down that trouble-shooting path. At one point, when I had the (used car) dealer read the codes when the CEL came on right after I signed the final papers, he said it was a bad gas cap. Since that's easy to fix, and is one of the items mentioned, I may start with that.
     
  11. Guapish_Fliver

    Guapish_Fliver New Member

    May 31, 2016
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    That's not a gas cap... He snaked you.. I got those codes when I unplugged my maf... It will run with or without the maf, it just runs like a gutless turd. Smooth, but lame running...

    Does it run the same or different with the maf unplugged?
     
  12. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    Replaced Gas Cap, then cleared codes; after driving a few miles, P2187 came back on.
     
  13. mark1

    mark1 New Member

    Sep 24, 2016
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    The last time I tried that test, it seemed to run better with the MAF disconnected, so I replaced the MAF (new Bosch part). But I actually haven't tried again with the MAF off, to see if the P2187 will return, if the MAF is disconnected. I guess because most of the idle problems disappeared with the MAF replacement.
     
  14. DOAG90

    DOAG90 New Member

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    Hello Mark, I am having the same exact problems with my R56 2007 mini cooper. I am taking it to the dealership tomorrow to get a full diagnostic but I wanted to see if you were able to resolve your issue ? What were your expenses ? what did you do to resolve the issue? what do you suggest me doing ?
     
  15. DOAG90

    DOAG90 New Member

    Feb 4, 2019
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    You're response would be very valuable!
     
  16. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    His reply was 3 years ago. Try sending him a PM and maybe he will get an e-mail and check answer your questions.
     
  17. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Welcome to MA! Also if you find a fix for your Mini update use on what you find.
     
  18. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to Motoring Alliance !! Good luck with your repairs.
     
  19. Ron Day

    Ron Day New Member

    Feb 19, 2019
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    P2187 is lean fuel/air. two causes leaking air, poor fuel delivery (clogged fuel filter, faulty pump). Check the gas cap, oil cap and oil dipstick for bad seal, not fully closed, check your vacuum hoses etc... If not, then check your fuel pressure, do a smoke test etc...
     

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