2nd Gen Most liked posts in thread: R56 owner new to the site

New information. After 15 minute idle warm up temp pre cat was 350F and post cat was 300F. So the catalytic converter is shot. Now to find out why!
Also got my NT520 Pro scan tool today so more information to come once I figure out how to use it.

 

For the love of pete. The MAP sensor I have installed is for N14B16C and I need for the N14B16A. So this is probably the error. Thank you @oldbrokenwind for this. Will see in a few days when I get the new one if this is the cause of my issues.
So several tear downs and thousands of dollars later we will see if a $50 part is the cause of my issues. At least I will have a half new engine that can support a JCW turbo from DT, so not all is lost.

 

Nothing new on my end so far as I'm down and out from surgery, but I called my mechanic to troubleshoot with him and got quite a few answers differing from my belief.
First, he said that the temperature post catalytic converter should be lower than the input, which disagrees with everything I have seen online.
Second is that a timing chain issue would only cause misfires and not low mileage.
Then he said that the pre-cat O2 bouncing around 0.0v at idle is correct but the post-cat sensor should stay steady around 0.5v and not 0.8v like I have(Post cat drops to zero for a few seconds when I take my foot of the gas-Not sure if this is normal or not). His thought was I am not getting the car warm enough to get accurate O2 readings(Could be possible as most my trips are less than 30 minutes in city traffic and it is bloody cold in Chicago).
Finally we agreed that a P129E code is most likely a vacuum leak so my little Mini with go in for a smoke test on monday.
I received an N14 timing kit today so when I'm up to it I am going to check the tensioner as I'm still hung up on the timing chain(My car missed the Mini timing chain replacement lawsuit by a month so not sure if the chain has ever been replaced).

 

Indeed I do have a Bentley manual.
Thinking I will check the wastegate by using a borescope through the lambda port. No way i'm taking off the catalytic converter. Just need to order or rent the pressure pump.
I've still got the P129E code but maybe I was too quick to judge the timing chain not accomplishing anything. Just filled up and got 1.5mpg better on the way back from Detroit even though there was more traffic. Also have driven 5 city miles and the computer thinks I am getting 25mpg while before it was 18mpg. Still too soon to tell but a week driving in the city and I will get confirmation.

 

So driving around was great. No codes and everything smooth like butter. Still cannot believe that piece of rubber was bothering my poor Mini for a year(or more). But what has me worried now is that this 1 inch piece of rubber has a curve to it, like it was a gasket with a 3 or 4 inch diameter. So where is the rest of it? Does anyone know the airflow through the diverter valve? Where should I be looking for pieces?
@Dave.0 True that the factory uses locktite but it always looks clean and professional and in my little bit of experience only covers a few threads. These threads were covered in locktite dust from top to bottom, like somebody slathered it on. Plus the valve itself was clean and bright yellow. Not at all how I imagine a part after 80,000 miles.

@MCS02 I forgot to check the coolant temperature on my drive today. Guess I was too excited. Would be strange if the diverter valve also caused low coolant temperature but why not? All this has been weird to me. Tomorrow will be the coolant temperature check.

 

@MCS02 Thanks for the link. I have read for hours and hours about the PCV and catch cans and still the same 50/50 result of blocking off the PCV is fine against blocking the PCV causes too much pressure in the crankcase. This is why I am doing my own test when my new manometer arrives next week.
I don't believe that plastic piece is a check valve. I tried finding it on parts websites but no luck. It is a 90 degree elbow in the intake manifold near the throttle body right where the PCV tube enters. It ends up pointing straight up in the intake manifold against the flow of air. So I'm thinking it has to be there to use the flow by air to create a vacuum and suck the air from the crankcase. Since I don't have it in there now maybe too much air from the crankcase is getting sucked straight into the air intake. Maybe I will take a picture of it and upload it here.
Edit: Actually I will just cap the PCV to see if that fixes anything since it will take this little white plastic piece out of the equation.

 

I swapped the MAP sensor out with the old and the P129E code cleared so it looks like the new one was defective. I will see when I get a replacement what happens.

 

I think you mean on the throttle body. At least that is where I found a white clip on my R56S that seemed to do nothing. I looked and looked at it but found absolutely no purpose or point to it being there. It wasn't connected to anything. If your car is running the same without it you can probbly just store it somewhere and reinstall it next time you have access.

 

No idea how to read boost. I have the super NT520 scan tool but haven't learned how to use it yet. Only the live data. Driving around today engine coolant still around 160F. I got the following from live data MAP and MAF.

MAP 4.5psi at idle and up to 18psi with the beans

MAF 0.01lb/sec at idle and up to .16lb/sec with the beans

Purchased a vacuum pump today so will test the wastegate tomorrow.

 

Pictures of the rubber piece I found in my diverter valve housing.
Any thoughts on where I should search for more pieces or if I should be worried about it?
Coolant temperature was 170F driving around today.