I think the coolant temp may be a separate issue. I believe my time is in the low 200. But I will double check. I am too lazy to read back through the thread so I will just ask, do you have a Bentley manual? Sorry I am not more help, I am just getting to know the Gen2 Minis. All my time has been with my R53.
Indeed I do have a Bentley manual. Thinking I will check the wastegate by using a borescope through the lambda port. No way i'm taking off the catalytic converter. Just need to order or rent the pressure pump. I've still got the P129E code but maybe I was too quick to judge the timing chain not accomplishing anything. Just filled up and got 1.5mpg better on the way back from Detroit even though there was more traffic. Also have driven 5 city miles and the computer thinks I am getting 25mpg while before it was 18mpg. Still too soon to tell but a week driving in the city and I will get confirmation.
@usafpj13 My R58 JCW running timp. Is 220F. So yours sounds a little low. How much boost are you getting?
and after more driving today back down to 18mpg, so no change from replacing the timing chain. My 160F to your 220F coolant difference is quite large. I sure hope it isn't leaking into the engine block or else this car will turn out to be my worst vehicle purchase ever. Boost feels alright. I don't know how to measure it. I got these stats with key on, engine off just to test the sensors: EngineCoolantTemperature-70F IntakeAirTemperature-59F Shouldn't these two be close? Baro-14.4psi MAP-12.2psi Shouldn't this and Baro be the same with the engine off? MAF-0.0lb/sec and 0.03lb/sec moving. Seems way too low but no idea why air wouldn't be moving out of the airbox towards the turbo. FuelRailPressure-71.1
Not sure about the Baro and the MAP, maybe. A bad wastage can cause bad gas mile. I Have a scan gage mounted next to my tach. I have it set to display temp, volts, boost, intake temp. If you have an OBD 2 reader with data logging it should be able to read boost. On my R53 I use a Bluetooth reader and Dashcomand to read boost. Your mileage is way off. It would be helpful to know how much boost you are getting.
No idea how to read boost. I have the super NT520 scan tool but haven't learned how to use it yet. Only the live data. Driving around today engine coolant still around 160F. I got the following from live data MAP and MAF. MAP 4.5psi at idle and up to 18psi with the beans MAF 0.01lb/sec at idle and up to .16lb/sec with the beans Purchased a vacuum pump today so will test the wastegate tomorrow.
You guys won't believe this. I pulled the diverter valve off a few minutes ago and it looked in brand new condition. Strange for a car with 78,000 miles. The bolts though were covered in what looked like locktite dust, which I don't think the factory does. When I went to clean and inspect where the diverter valve goes I found a piece of rubber about an inch long just hanging out in there. Obviously broken from somewhere and it looks slighty familiar. Took it out, cleaned, and replaced the valve. Started the car up and immediately everything was perfect. No P129E code, O2 sensor to.455v from .80v. Who knew the diverter valve could cause so many issues? Now to take a road trip and see how she does.
So driving around was great. No codes and everything smooth like butter. Still cannot believe that piece of rubber was bothering my poor Mini for a year(or more). But what has me worried now is that this 1 inch piece of rubber has a curve to it, like it was a gasket with a 3 or 4 inch diameter. So where is the rest of it? Does anyone know the airflow through the diverter valve? Where should I be looking for pieces? @Dave.0 True that the factory uses locktite but it always looks clean and professional and in my little bit of experience only covers a few threads. These threads were covered in locktite dust from top to bottom, like somebody slathered it on. Plus the valve itself was clean and bright yellow. Not at all how I imagine a part after 80,000 miles. @MCS02 I forgot to check the coolant temperature on my drive today. Guess I was too excited. Would be strange if the diverter valve also caused low coolant temperature but why not? All this has been weird to me. Tomorrow will be the coolant temperature check.
Pictures of the rubber piece I found in my diverter valve housing. Any thoughts on where I should search for more pieces or if I should be worried about it? Coolant temperature was 170F driving around today.
It could have been something that broke and sucked into they system. I would not worry about it since your car is running fine now.
and I'm back. Made it over two weeks but today all my symptoms came back. P129E code, rough idle, oxygen sensors back to old readings. Plus the addition of the car dying sometimes when starting from a stop, like I don't give it enough gas. Went straight to the diverter valve and was expecting another piece of rubber in there, as before, but nothing. So now I am stumped. It must be another piece of the rubber shown above but I have no idea where it might be. Does anyone know the airflow through the diverter valve or where I should look?
I should have thought of this when you posted you found the plastic. The OEM DV some times gos bad and the plastic OEM DV can disintegrate and get sucked into the turbo. This is a good replacement https://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/dv-plus/dv-t9352-suits-mini-citroen-and-peugeot-application-detail You will want to check that you get everything out if this is the problem.
I was thinking of replacing it just because but it isn't the cause of the problem. It looks brand new and hasn't lost any pieces. It has got to be the remaining pieces of the rubber piece above. They are probably everywhere in my engine and damaging and gumming up places like my turbo blades but I cannot find them or what piece they used to be. This is why I am interested in the air flow through the DV. I will probably end up taking it to my mechanic as they can search much better and faster than I can. @MCS02 It is a rubber piece, not plastic. Maybe that can help somebody ID it.
If there are pieces of rubber in the intake, it is unlikely they could get past the turbocharger and certainly not past the intercooler.
@DneprDave I don't know. The piece pictured above has quite a few nicks in it like it hit the fan blades or maybe just bounced around. Why do you say it couldn't get passed the turbocharger? That is just a fan blade that would probably chop the pieces up and then melt inside it. Do you know what is before and after the DV? It looked to me like there is a connection between the DV and turbo but that was just a visual inspection. I have no idea of the airflow around the DV.
The diverter valve is an exhaust bypass around the turbocharger. The bypass or diverter valve gives the car's computer control of the boost pressure.
Went poking around today in the intercooler pipes. Took the bottom off the right side intercooler and all was well. Dry with no debris. Putting it back on together on my back with the car raised on jackstands was a beast though. Took the top of the hot side intercooler off and the inside of the pipe had a decent coating of oil. Not sure if that is normal, especially ocnsidering the tube from the air filter to the turbocharger is bone dry. I will do a more detailed inspection next week when I replace it with a Forge hot side intercooler pipe. I also ordered the newest version diverter valve which was suppose to arrive today but didn't.