Hey all, Brand new to minis. Just bought this 2007 MCS to build up as an SCCA STX autocross car. But I thought I'd update you as this build progressed. Here's the car in virgin form. Don't get used to it looking like this. Top 3/4. The red interior is great. Gratuitous "sunday drive" shot. We have great twisties in San Diego. And, the first of the new parts have arrived: Neuspeed RSe05's, 17 x 7.5. Waiting on this week: Hotchkis H-Sport competition rear 25.5 hollow rear sway bar Dunlop Direzza DZII 215-45-17. I went with the 45 vs. the 40 for a slightly taller 2nd gear, which will give a slightly higher top end in autocross. (and be a bit better with gas mileage too.) Stay tuned.
Wow. What grip those Dunlop Direzza DII's have. It's ridiculous. Here they are on the car: I think they look phenomenal...but now I need some big brakes! Those rears look funny! Wheels: Neuspeed RSe05. Ordered them on Tuesday, had them Wednesday! Fantastic Service! Tires: Dunlop Direzza DII 215/45-17. Only available at Tirerack.com. I opted for 45 versus 40 for slightly taller gearing while autocrossing.
Thought I'd document the process of installing my podcast's graphics in case you ever want to install any. First, lay out and measure your placement, and secure with blue tape. Use a tape measure to be precise about it. Once you get it where you want it, use a long strip of tape to "split it in half", like this: Now, pull one side off, leaving the tape in the middle of the vinyl. Peel off the backing, and cut it off with a razor blade. I taped mine in the right upper corder to temporarily hold it while I cut the backing off: 1/2 the backing cut off, with the blue tape securing it's place on the car: Now, starting from the middle (near the blue tape) gently work your way from the inside to the outside, adhering the graphic as you go along. You want to "roll" inch by inch, so that you don't inadvertently adhere the graphic and cause a big crease. I hold the graphic taut with my left hand while my right hand works it's way down. Then, half is on. Since that half is holding the graphic in place, you can remove the tape, peel back the other backing, and repeat the process from inside out. You'll be left with this: If you have letters that span the door gap, gently push the graphics so you can see the crease of the door, then cut with a razor blade. Open the door and stick the vinyl. Now that it's on, your car DEFINITELY has at least 5 more HP. Go enjoy your notoriety as a famous race car driver (Or Podcaster):
Looks great, nice tire choice. I ran the D ZII's at the Dragon last week and they had incredible grip dry or wet. I had others running Michelin Pilot Super Sports that could not get any grip in the turns when it got cold. :frown2: You need only 3 things at the Dragon: Gas, Brakes, and lots of Grip and this D ZII's had it to spare even when pushed VERY hard for 11 miles full of 318 twist and turns. I heat cycled those baby's every run and they just asked for more with nice and sharp turn in's. FYI the Dunlop ZIII's (3's) come out in Nov 2014.
Finishing the Vinyl. This is exactly what I designed in Adobe Illustrator months ago...long before I had a mini. Vision board material, I guess. Now I get lots of conversation about it. My next choice is springs/shocks, or LSD.
The Dragon for MINI's. Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap, motorcycle and sport car two lane tourism serving Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap, Cherohala Skyway, Moonshiner28, Devils Triangle, and Six Gap North Georgia. It a stretch of road 11 miles long with 318 turns of pure awesomeness.
RMW is in SoCal and I am all the way over in PA 1/2 hour from Philly. I buy RMW parts and have Helix in Philly install them and Jan comes out and Dyno tunes my car. (I will be in LA next week.) Here is the site for RMW. Jan is the owner of RMW. Revolution Mini Works If you want great custom coil overs with Swift Springs and camber plates contact Colin. He works with Jan of RMW. For $1,750.00 you cant do better unless you go full JRZ race. https://www.greeneperformance.com/mini/suspension/coilovers.html
Dave...that's great info. I'll make a run at RMW soon. I have to be in LA next week. BTW...I'm from Yardley, which is in Bucks County. That's my hometown.
Right on. We were neighbors at some point. My bro used to work at College Pro Painters in West Chester.
Finally Made a Phase I Suspension Decision. After poring over many, many, many threads, youtube videos, and drawing on past experience, my phase I suspension is going to be a set of Koni Yellows with Swift Spec-R springs. (With Vorshlag Camber Plates) They are affordable, offer limited adjustment, and are all very quality pieces. I still haven't found a "build vendor" yet, but I'm hoping to partner with one for this project. I'll keep you posted on the suspension. Next up...LSD.
I needed a way to mount my iPhone for Data Acquisition and GPS So, I went down to Marshall's and bought a spare iPhone case, stuck some industrial velcro on it, and stuck the other side to the bottom half of my (not used thanks to the stereo upgrade) speedo. Worked great.
The "Brown Santa" arrived today with 1/2 my suspension. The Brown Santa arrived with my Koni yellows. Super inexpensive (and free shipping) from Tire Rack. Swift Spec R springs will arrive tomorrow or Wednesday. They'll be a perfect first year/phase 1 suspension while I get to know the car. I knew this combo would get me 80% of the way there, and allow me to budget for the ever important LSD. A set of camber plates and a brake pad upgrade, and I should ruffle the feathers of some local STX guys.
The Wheel Gap Had To Go... If I was to be competitive in STX (Where the Mini is an underdog), the car needed to get lower, more adjustable, and stiffer in the rear. As a "phase 1" suspension upgrade, I called on the old autocross standby, Koni yellows. After much research, I decided a set of Swift Spec R Race springs would mate up perfectly, and give me the lower CG and responsiveness I needed. One great thing about this journey is how I learn something new about this car every single time I work on it. I've now messed with suspension, electronics, exhaust, and wheels/tires, and I've had it for exactly one month. Here was the previous wheel gap. Three fingers (for her pleasure): Out with the old, in with the new. (anyone need an R56 suspension?): Midway through. The yellow looks nice poking out of there: I can't quite get a finger in there now without angling it up. Here's the before and after. It's actually sitting at a weird angle in my driveway, so it's actually a bit lower than it looks in this pic: And the final shot. I have to say...the preliminary drive was SURPRISING to say the least. Despite being about 4x stiffer, it's MUCH smoother than the factory ride. I can't say enough about these Koni dampers. They are SO much better than the asian aftermarket cheapo stuff. It's these, THEN you step up to JRZ or something fancier when you reach that level. My next steps are to fix my crummy exhaust (long story) and get a set of F + R EBC red pads...my warning light is on, so I don't have long before I've got to replace them. And I'm racing next weekend, so time is of the essence. At this point, I'll have to replace that "DS" with "STX", cause there's no going back. Stay tuned!
EBC red pads eh? I like mine..... However... Others have had tragic results... Check them for delamination after you start using them.... Some have suggested water getting in behind them causing the separation of the friction material from the backing plate... They might be the owners that wash their wheels too much.... You will probably use them up quickly if they are your race pads.... Don't stop and wash those wheels too much while racing on the track..... Stay vigilant.... There are probably better pads made for racing then the reds.... I consider them better then OEM for street.... But mine haven't delaminated...... Yet....
I've never heard of any of that...thanks for the heads up. I've used EBC greens in the past with no problem, but would love to hear more about this. what other pads do you recommend that make great autocross pads?