Hey all, I've a 2012 R60 (Countryman S). I love it. I won't part with it. It's driving me insane. I started with some rough starts when cold, progressively getting worse. I've read about some of the high pressure pump issues and with 130k miles on the dial, I though it was good time for a refresh. New high pressure pump installed, same issue. I pulled the rear seat up to swap out the sending unit and there was fuel visible on top of the sending unit inside the electrical connector. I figured with the pins/plastic degrading I'd found my issue. Swapped it out, same issue. (Unrelated to rough starting but now my dash gauge reads half of a tank when I'm all but empty. I think it's the wrong potentiometer for the model.) I tore down to the fuel rail to replace the rail pressure sensor and injectors. New injectors, sensor delivered was wrong. Marginally better starts but still low pressure when I shift, or come off the throttle (check engine light on then off). I'm currently trying to locate the fuel pump relay to swap out for a known good. I've ordered a 3D printed intake adapter to give it a walnut shot. I assume carbon's unrelated but anyone who may have other opinions,ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated. I run the Torque app on my phone with a Bluetooth OBD tool. My codes are repeated, switching from pending to historic from time to time. P0087 Fuel Rail/ System Pressure - too low P306F Fuel Pressure drop below minimum P15DF Fuel High Pressure System Cold Start, too low Other than the rough first start attempt (it purrs on second start) as long as I stay out of Sport mode and don't try to pass at highway speeds I'm okay. I know, I didn't follow the golden rule of replacing the cheapest parts first, I went more with the easiest to swap out and ignored price. Any sage advice?
I believe you have a N18 engine so I would not think it is a carbon issue. I may have missed it but did you change the fuel filter? MINI says it's a life time filter......thats a bit of a lie.
Confirmed, N18 engine. I'm not sold on carbon but I've ordered a 3D printed intake adapter for a walnut shot. In the meantime, I bought a few cans of the seafoam spray with the doubleback straw to use along the boost hose. If that improves things AT ALL I'll bite. I have some horrible cell phone photos of the intake throat and one captures a valve pretty well. I may be able to throw some proof at the seafoam nay-sayers over the next few weeks. I did change the in-tank fuel sending unit and all documentation I can find lists the filter sock on the pump as the only fuel filter in the car. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Ok I thought it was separate like on the other Gen 2 Minis. I am like you and doubt it is carbon build up on the valves. If you can get your hands on a fuel pressure gage and drive it around with it hooked up that may help to see what's going on. If that sending unit is incorrect that may need to be changed out also.
I was initially confused by the absence of the tank access under the driver's side back seat. Everything I read documents two access panels across the back. Everything is in one unit under my passenger side rear seat. It's hard to find much of anything on the 2012 Countryman S and only service manuals appear to be monthly fee cloud access only. I'm chatting with the vendor of that sending unit now. It was listed as a "direct fit" for my make/model/year. I stacked two seafoam treatments this morning and had a good laugh as the beast identified as a poorly maintained diesel truck. Very apparent change in idle, still throwing low pressure codes. I'm going to search for a T'd line I can connect a gauge to for the pre-high pressure pump line and trace the fuel line from back to front, again. I can't avoid the assumption that something is wrong there. Maybe pulling air on throttle and losing pressure when sitting overnight. I'll keep busy there until I can secure a new pressure sensor. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
There IS a small steel line from the pump to the rail but it appears to be duck sphincter tight. No pooling, drip or vacuum evident around it. I've completely traced lines back to front with no apparent injury. I'm back at the rail pressure sensor and waiting for walnut shot material before I pull the intake to get to it.
So, if anyone is following this thread, I haven't had a chance to dig deeper into the stutter/lag/low fuel pressure problem because of a new BIGGER problem. Maybe some advice is available on this one. (I'll start a new thread, too) I had a battery issue. It's 4 years old and had a low crank start, then a fail to turn over one day. I set a low power trickle charge to it over the day and it seemed to start properly, in daylight. The next morning I fired it up to run my little one up to the bus stop and realized I had no interior lights, had no front window control, no gauge backlighting, no turn signals and no sunroof control. Joy. I think the footwell module (FRM) is gooned but any insight would be appreciated. I'll be trying to fire up a BMW code reader/programmer my dad was playing with a few years back if anyone has insight on how to set THOSE up.