Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Rear Brakes - Going Back to OEM type rotors

I wish the local Mini dealers were that supportive of the enthusiasts. Here it's "Got mods? Pay extra or go away!"

Mat

 

I had similar issues getting Pilot Racing studs out of my car, if it's any consolation. it's just impossible to get any torque on a 5mm allen without stripping it.

Robogrips are your friend here (as is tapping them inboard with a hammer to break up any corrosion).

 

I have found the only reasonable way to remove studs (whether you used blue or red loctite) is with a propane torch. If you heat them up they come right out.

 

I have a couple questions because I have a similar rear setup, 11.75 Wilwoods with 14-12 studs, and hope I am not going to have issues when it is time to replace the rotors.
1. Why didn't you just get replacement Wilwood rotors? I think the replacement Wilwood rotors are a little cheaper than the TSW rotors? Where you experiencing a problem with the wilwoods? Were you going to replace the hats and rotors, so it made it more expensive? If so, why did you need to replace the hats?
2. Why did you need to remove the studs to replace the rotors? Couldn't you just remove the caliper and slide the rotor off the studs. I installed the 11.75" Wilwood rotors with the studs already installed so I hope I can get them off. Did you have some type off unusual problem that made it hard to remove the rotors?

 

Now I am confused or maybe I am just forgetting something.
I have a GP so I also have the R56 aluminum trailing arms. I had the studs already installed when I added the Wilwood rotors. I was able to install the rotor, carrier with dog bone, and caliper with the studs installed. Thus, I believe I should be able to remove the rotor with the studs in place. Maybe I installed mine slightly differently but I can not imagine how. I did have to grind some of the trailing arm to provide clearance for the button head bolts. I will have to unbolt the carrier with dog bone (as a complete assembly) from the arm to get the rotor off but there is no problem getting to those bolts because they are in the same location as stock.

 

Thanks Nathan. That makes sense.
I do not remember having a problem holding the bolt head and torquing the nuts (or holding the nut and torquing the bolt head). Maybe I installed the bolt/nut backwards from you. Maybe I was able to torque without holding the nut but that might not be the case when I want to remove the bolt. Now I am curious and will need to jack the car up next weekend and take a look at my install to see if I will have a similar problem that I should plan for.

 

How much braking power did you lose going back to OEM/TSW rotors on rears only?

 

I added the larger Wilwood rear brakes not to gain braking power but to help reduce the heat and disapate the heat generated by the small pads. Many people have measured very high temps on the rear brakes which can cause fluid to boil.

 

I'm pretty sure

that it's close to none. There's huge weight transfer to the fronts with such a short wheel base and relatively high center of gravity under heavy breaking.

Matt

 

After adding the TSW BDM I get about double the life of rear pads. In other words the more work the front brakes do, the less you need the rears.

Alan

 

Sounds like a fun day. Glad to learn that the rear kit doesn't provide any significant benefit.

 

Wilwood rrr:

I'm curious to see if anyone has actually measured before and after stopping distances after putting on their BBK.

 

I did not do before and after braking distance testing but I would not expect the BBK to decrease braking distances (at least until the stock brakes start to fade). I added the BBK to provide better braking capability over sustained high heat braking activities, such as track days. The intent of the BBK is to help dissipate the heat (across larger rotors) to help the brake pads and fluid stay cooler so you do not have brake fade.

It is difficult to do a comparison between stock and BBK because most people (including me) use a different pad compound with the BBK. Even the different Mini Models/Options use different pad compounds. For me, I think my braking distances are a little longer with the BBK when the brakes are cold. I use Hawk HPS for the street and Wilwood B for the track. The Hawk HPS do not seem to have much initial bite compared to the stock TRW pads (on my GP) especially when a little cold.

 

I understand that point very well. But a properly balanced BBK will be able to shed heat better as well as maintain or improve the stock braking distance. Hence the question, has anyone measured their stopping distances from stock to post-BBK and seen an improvement? I understand pads will play a role as well but I'd be curious to see the results for Wilwood and Wilwood-type caliper setups. I knew of two teams at Super Lap Battle that got rid of their Wilwoods because they could see the caliper flex while bleeding their brakes.

 

All calipers flex. Some more than others. Just seeing a caliper flex while bleeding doesn't mean much by itself. If it was flexing enough to cause uneven pad wear or odd breaking characteristics, then you are onto a potential reason for changing them out. Also, Wilwood (and most caliper manufacturers) has various different types of calipers - some more street oriented and some more track oriented. Each will behave differently in flex and other attributes.