I'm attempting to remove my headliner in the rear of my MCS so I can gain access to my antenna mount and remove it for replacement, how do I get those white plastic covers off that cover the rear seat belts? Thank you and much appreciated! Systemlord.
Not sure what you mean.... #4? How to remove the seatbelt cover from the body? Or How to remove the seatbelt strap from the cover?
On an R56, just pull the back of the liner from under the rubber strip and pull it down enough to get to the nut. I have done this several times.
On cover #7 there is a screw that needs to be removed first that's under the removable screw cover... Then the only thing holding the cover to the body are plastic push clips....
It was tough removing that bolt that actually has teeth in it, took an 18" crescent wrench to loosen it. The new antenna mount is going to run me $157.85 at ESC Tuning, my dealer wants $185. I should have my Craven "The Stubby" well before I get the new antenna mount. I'm going out there now to put some tape over the hole to keep water out. Anybody know how to remove headliner creases because it looks terrible?
I must be missing something here. I took my mount off twice, without removing any bolts or getting creases.
Justa Jim.... There is a rather large nut that holds the antenna mount (at #3) to the top of the roof panel. This nut needs to be removed in order to remove the antenna mount... Of course this is for the "S"..... And maybe the "S" needs this special fastener because..... Well, you know why....:devil: Because faster..... PS: Jim.... The mounts we are talking about have nothing to do with saddles or horses... Just a rather large nut.....
Very funny MM. Mike showed me how to do this at MOTD a few years back (ask COOPERJET he watched him do it). The interior of an R56 "S", is the same as an R56 Justa. If you pull back the rubber molding along the top of the headliner, you can pull it down far enough to see the "nut", put a wrench on it and remove the mount. I have done this several times since MOTD, with no problem, no creasing, no nothing. Just trying to save the OP some grief, but "whatever". :frown2:
Thanks I appreciate the assistance thus far, I guess my concern was if I can't see it then I might as well be blind folded. I plan on cutting some popsicle sticks and reducing the length and then using epoxy to remove the crease. Funny thing is as of now there's no antenna on my MCS and yet I'm still receiving all of my stations! ESC Tuning shipped me the new antenna mount today, so I shall have it by Friday and then I can install my new Craven's "The Stubby". I will NEVER use a high speed buffer on my Mini unless the rubber molding is removed because I basically melted it going around it. Expensive lesson!
The rear defroster wires act as an auxillary antenna. And yes, RO polisher is needed. If you have a large garage compressor, consider getting an air powered one. Have been using mine for years w/o any issues. And it is a whole heck of a lot cheaper.
Actually I did use a Meguiars random orbital D/A polisher, I also use the blue painters tape. It was the heat generated from the polisher on speed 6 still transferred the heat through the tape. The areas under my rubber molding all around the Mini are dirty, next time I buff all of the trim comes off. That how the pros do it, this way there's no white residue in the cracks since there are no cracks. I purchased a thin sheet of carbon fiber to glue where the crease is, I will clamp it under pressure overnight. That should remove the crease don't you think?
^^^ This or when you are buffing with any pad the sides of the pad are not lubed and the dry foam against the tape makes heat real fast. Especially if you are using the 6 setting. When I do a fully polish I also remove the trim as it just pulls off because it is only held on with clips. * The front trim has a screw at each end behind the rubber molding and separates in the middle. I also remove the hood vents (by the wipers) from underneath to avoid compound splatter and pop out the side scuttles.
I justa treat the trim before I do any polishing or waxing. Any stuff that gets on the trim is easily wiped off the freshly treated trim. Removing trim is justa too too much for this old fart. More power to you if you feel the need. Me I'm staying with the lazy mans way. Hey get off my lawn! :beer
I agree with the crud under the moldings that stuff is nasty. Also I never use my DA on setting 6 its way to high for polishing/buffing. You also stand a chance of adding rotary type swirls at that speed. Try starting out slower 1 or 2 and only go as high as 4. You will end up getting a much finer, even cut with more even depth when polishing.