now hold on there buckaroo Thats a mighty delicate toucas there to be picking up a 30lb weight drop. Think you need to take that for a super officiious triple certified dyno tester machine dooohicky jobber
I just feels honestly different and I like it. If I did all that really fancy, certified testing, mumbo jumbo, I might find out it is all in my head and what fun would that be? :cornut: Jim
Thats all that matters my friend I know it's louder with the RSD especially with the Borla exhaust on mine but I love it too !
Coming from an aviation background I know that 30 pounds can make a noticeable difference under the right conditions. It could be that I might be more able to feel it driving a justa, then you might with your "S". It would still be there, but you have way more power then I do, therefore I might notice a bit stronger acceleration before you might. Now that you all have mentioned the noise level, I just finished placing several layers of the felt matting, that you put under hard wood floors, in the area under the new floor board. So far so good. Jim
They make specific sound deadening rubberized matting. They go so far as to design floor matting vs. door matting. Designed to reduce the specific frequency of road sounds vs. traffic sounds. Hope the felt does it, if not you have some other options
Thanks Tim. Removing the floor should not be a problem, so I can try other options. I just happened to have the felt, so why not. I also think I will add some of the stuff you mentioned, to the doors and sides when I do the speakers. As long as it is apart, might as well go for it. Jim
Placebo effect.. I have a pill that you can take and your car will have 1.5hp more on the days you take them.. They even have different flavors.
If I did that the horses would be following me everywhere. I have those and a bale of straw. :idea: Jim
Sound deadening, rubberized material sounds very NASA-ish, but I was wondering if it was much different than underlay? Sidebar, not inteded to derail this thread... A good friend of mine, who's a carpenter with a gazzilion more tools and talent than I will ever have, built his own media room complete with electronically controlled retracting drapes, celing mount HD projector, tiered theater seating. When it came to sound containment of the room, I commented on how nice looking and effective his sound boxes were on the walls. He said there was this really high-tech stuff he could've ordered from NY at quite a price. In the end he said it had a stiking resemblence to the weed block matting he could get at Home Depot. :idea: So he made is own sound boxes from materials at the local hardware store.
This stuff is merely a 1/4 inch, dense, felt padding. Comes in a big roll at Lowe's. Same idea s your friend. OK, having a problem getting the correct curve on the sides for the new floor piece. been hacking away on cardboard, but can't seem to get it right. Any ideas??? Jim
Use a simple pencil compass and trace the side perpendicular to the surface. Carpenters use this method all the time. Don't try to do the whole bottom panel in one shot. Use a strip of cardboard for both sides. Then tape the left and right strips (after contorted) to the main piece of cardboard. Hope this helps Jim... Good luck. Chuck
Many years ago we had a '79 GM van that was pseudo-camperized. I needed new carpet on the floor so I went and got a scrap piece from local flooring store. I neatly layed it face down and got a marker and did a damn good job of tracing everything out. Put the carpet on the garage floor and did an even better job cutting out the piece. I was really proud of my work. Then I went to lay it in the van. I had traced the reciprocal of the pattern I needed. I should have taped and traced with the carpet side face up. ut: I'm not offering any advice Jim
Good story Ric.... I always tell my guys, measure twice, cut once... A sheet of stainless isn't cheap.