That works most of the time. When we moved into our house and had the new carpet installed, our bedroom door rubbed on the bottom. I took the door off, took it to the back yard, measured, and re-measured and cut. It was a nice square cut, not bad for a cheap circular saw. I took off 1/2 of an inch. Remounted the door and it still rubbed. Hmmm. I found out that when you take a door down for cutting, you're recommended to mark which is the top and the bottom of the door. We now have a 1/2 gap at the top that light streams thru every morning. :incazzato: After my second cut the bottom no longer rubs.
As long as we are telling stories on ourselves, years ago I got into leather work and decided to try making a holster. Checked, double checked, measured, measured again and ended up with the nicest left handed holster you have ever seen. Except I'm right handed. :lol: Jim
Not a derail at all, seems right on topic When I had my amps, speaker and Sub installed I went to a high end install shop JML AUDIO - Photo Gallery - Mini Cooper They pulled off all the door panels and flooring and installed sound deadening material, in that process the owner explained diff products for different parts of the car. On the floorboards you want to remove road noise and the frequencies associated with that. On the door panels you are looking to remove wind and traffic so diff frequencies. He also set up some whiz bang stuff in both the door speakers and under the sub to reflect sound back up Likely it's all the same stuff and you can buy it at home dept of $1/yd but it sounded like a good investment at the time. Cue idiot with credit card driving chili red MINI..... Damn it sounds sweet though
Picture of the door or me with my eye shades on during the weekends so I can sleep in? Every Saturday day I'm reminded of my stupidity :mad2:
Job is now done. I'll take pictures tomorrow, but there is what I did and learned. I used the seat to make a template on a section of cardboard, but it was not correct. I took some sheets of typing paper (some of you will remember what that is) and taped it along the edge, hanging over about half its width. Then I placed the cardboard back in and snugged the paper down, forming a right angle and giving me the correct curve. Marked with a pen, cut and transfered to a sheet of finished plywood. Cut with jig saw, sanded and checked for fit. The front of the seat attaches to two objects that are 1 X 1 1/2 " and stick up one inch (seen clearly in second link posted above). I marked their location on the front of the board and cut out a rectangular hole for them to go into, having a snug fit. Felt did not work, so I removed it and applied Hush Mat vibration dampener to the metal surfaces. Next, I applied Hush Mat sound barrier over the dampener. I also put some under the tool box and another section over the tool box, under the lid, but did not stick it down. I used spray glue on the top of the board and attached a sheet of black, rubber, floor runner. Wrapped the edges and stapled it on the bottom. I put the new floor in and pushed it down over the two front hold downs. Everything is very snug and tight. Now, in the center of the rear is the bracket that the two seat backs clip into, which can also be see in the second link I posted above. There are two #40 torx screws in the front AND one in the back. You have to remove the trim cover at the rear of the boot to get to it. There are two pop gizmos (like on the grill), one on each side and it then comes right off. I really like the seat being out. Much more usable space and the rear area can be cleaned from the hatch. Jim
Sorry Jim I'm not seeing anything in post #70. Not that I'm calling you a liar or anything I'm just sayin...
Thanks MM. My radio sounds different now. Not better exactly, but different. Perhaps because there is more room back there for the sound to bounce around in. Jim
