Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Reason for axle popping out???

Funny you should ask...

just finished an article on LSDs for MC2.... There are options out there at every price point. The OS Gilken is the cat's meow, but it's not cheap either. The 1-way or 1.5-way setting, the various pre-load variations and the like are really tuning tools for racers, and for street apps you'd be fine with "off the shelf" configuration.

Matt

 

I would get with Jan about the OS Giken since that is the one that he is selling and uses for his builds. It is too pricey for me though. FWIW, our Quaife has been great and unless you are going to track your car, I think the Giken is overkill.

 

The OBX is a helical LSD

like the Quaife, just a lot cheaper. Some who've taken it apart have found some cracked pre-load bevel washers in it, but it's basically a Quaife knock off.

The Cusco is a more traditional clutch type unit. The OS has a lot more adjustability, but is still a clutch unit.

So, the helicals have the plus of being able to put MORE torque to the wheel with the traction, but have the minus of losing all drive if you lift a wheel.

The clutch based LSDs can't do the trick with the torque like the helicals, but if you lift a front wheel, you still get torque via the wheel on the ground. The OS unit uses more plates and because of this, effectively become a locker under a lot of load. This helps for the track for sure. They also claim the increase in friction surface area decreases wear and reduces overall internal heating.

If I were in your shoes, I'd have a really good shop look at why you're loosing your axle, as opposed to replacing an expensive part in the hope that fixes it. But now that things are apart, you may be too far down that road to turn back now.

Another thing I notices, was that LSD manufacturers come and go from favor. First it was the Phantom Grip Locking Unit. Then the Quaife, then the Cusco, now the OS is the queen of the prom. In reality, they are all good units. For racers they may be good for a small (read on the order of 1) percentage difference in lap times. If you're a racer, this may matter. For the street, I'm not too sure it does.

OMFG!!! I just went to Jans site to see if he's still pushing the Quaife, and he's finally upgrading it! Now there are no LSDs on it at all though!

No LSD can eliminate torque steer. It's an effect of geometry as well as drive methods. The OS by locking up may act differently than others that don't go to full lock, but that's not the elimination of torque steer.

Matt

 

My mistake, It was Cusco I was thinking of. We have had the Quaife for almost three years and it requires zero maintenance. I don't feel torque steer in the MINI, but I don't drive it a lot and I'm used to my Jetta which torque steers a lot.

 

One thing that is "off the shelf" for the OS

is softer pre-load springs. This makes the transition to lock slower and softer. Good for street, racers would probably make the transition faster.

Matt

 

well I will stretch my neck out and say.... looking at the pictures and the description of how it happened your differential is not to blame. The trans mount damaged as it is allowing too much engine transmission movement causing the axle to expel, Fix the mount get a new axle and I think you would be good to go?

 

How are your ball joints? I had some weird feelings during full lock turns and found the ball joints were "toast"
This could cause excessive movement and let the axle pop out

 

I'm with Nitro on this one... hanging that sucker from the top mount only isn't going to keep it in one place.

 

Put in the mounts, check the trans, get the new axle and you should be good. I can't believe you didn't feel the mounts let go. Should have made one hell of a noise if it fell out.
Good Luck

 

You have found things that were bad...

the mounts. And they hold the engine/transaxle where it's supposed to be. I'm with Nitro and Blimey on this one. Fix all the things that suspens the engine, and get an axle and you SHOULD be good. It popping out at steering lock makes sense, as that the most exreme position. I'm better that less engine movement will allow the axle to come out when the steering is at that position than when driving straight.

If you want to throw money at the problem to cover all bases while it's apart, that's your call. But I'm not sure it's nessasary. I don't know it's not, either!

If you do the mounts, do them all, both sides of the engine. If one side is shot and the engine has been moving, it's been stressing the other side as well. Also, I think that having all the parts nice and new will snug things up a bit, and keep the engine rotation when under power and engine braking moving around the intended rotational axis.

Matt

 

Weenie:smilewinkgrin:

Mark

 

The clue is the splines at the end of the axle. You can see that the axle walked and then rode a time at the outer end. Not really the best support for the torque applied to it. Looking at the pictures I can not see any gear damage?
Tugging and pulling to determine if mounts are disrupted does not always work as you concluded. A level or protractor along with a floor jack works better to determine engine/trans position and movement limitations?

 

Hey Richard, shove the new inner CV in the diff without the c-clip and rotate back and forth to check for play. If there's play then the OBX output is worn too=replace with a new OBX output-or new OBX diff for the cost($400)-or upgrade your diff if you've got the cash.

Jeremy