1st Gen R53 Cooper S Recomendation for cheapest recut key

:idea: opcorn:

 

Interested to see where you go with this. My responses had been from a consumer standpoint but as an engineer you have a different take on it.

Here is some documentation on the EWS: Electronic Vehicle Immobilisation System EWS 3.3. From Googling, there are products that say they can make a copy of an ID44 chip. If the car isn't able to distinguish between your key and the copy, then it seems to me that it should work.

 

oops, double post

 

Going back about 3-4 years there were a few folks that found a place in eastern Europe (euro members om NAM)...that could CLONE/copy the ews chip with a machine...issues was that the keys stopped working after a month or so...not sure if it was just a QC issue, or something deeper...net result was the info dried up after a bit....

Good luck to the op...just the risk of having a failure and the 10 key limit to programs the cars EWS module means experimenting with non-clone keys could cost you $$ if it takes more than one try...heck you COULD be at the LIMIT NOW...
my logic was...if i spent 5 hrs to try to save $200 and had a 50% chance it would work, it was simply better to order the key from the dealer...cause if i failed, i lost the time AND the$$ spent on the key...and one thing...
the Keys are NOT LASER cut...the machine looks like a little duplicating router (a metal cutting version of the type used in woodworking)......several makes use them...they are not actually uncommon....

in a side story...was talking to a friend who ran a valet service for a bit on the side.....if the keys get locked in a car like a BMW a "slim jim" type of devise will not work...there are actually services that will arrive, push the lock into the body (usually on the trunk to be less noticeable)...they then can pop open the trunk...retrieve the lock, and make a key that fits the door...then they replace the lock with a slightly different trim piece....and in about 15 minutes work, have the door open to get the keys.....cost about $500 (was 6 years ago)...but high end valet services don't care...the embarrassment of leaving keys in a car is too much.

 

Doubly so when the car is locked, the locksmith is 20 minutes away, it's starting to rain and you forgot to put up the top.

 

MINI Key Hospital here...

johncoops-

I've been doing work on these keys for quite a while, and much of the information that others have responded with is true- the only real place to get a proper key is the dealer.

That said, here is a link to much valuable information about these keys:

Mini and Land Rover Remote Keys

This was not written by me, but by a member over at NAM. I forget who at the moment but can look it up if it is important. If you read this, you can see that they did manage to cobble together a working remote from bits and pieces of other keys, using easyDIS software for the remote part.

There are three separate, distinct components of MINI keys. There is the cut blade, which any reputable locksmith can cut. The one up the street from me doesn't use a laser (not sure where that idea started from) but rather a key cutting miller, which is different than your standard key cutter. They charge me $38 when I need a blade cut.

Second component is the remote board. And no, I don't believe that your three button remote can be used with your '02. Remember, the dealer/you with easyDIS is programming the car to accept the remote, not the other way around. Keys are not programmed once they leave the factory. See the date and code sticker on your remote board? That's what allows you to extrapolate the barcode and enter it into the easyDIS program (if this is confusing it's all covered in the Google site). The three button remote does not have this code inside if I'm correct. (Added: Also, the early two button key is of a Rover design- it can also be found in some Range Rover models and some we didn't get here in the U.S. such as the Rover 75. It might still be in use as some Rover models are still being produced in China. The three button keys are of a BMW design and are actually a BMW circuit board in a MINI shell.)

Third component is the ID 44 immobilizer chip in the key. Surprised to see it as a separate chip in the three button key as I fixed a friend's three button key and it was mounted to the board. I'm guessing it's that way so that the chip could be popped out and programmed by an ID 44 chip programmer.

All three of these components need to be present to have a working key, and all come present in a dealer ordered key. And yes, most dealers will charge you to program your car's remote system to accept commands from the remote. It does arrive able to start and unlock your car with the cut blade.

There is a cheaper dealer key option for both clamshell (two button) and flat, three button key users. MINI sells what is called a "general, non-remote" key which has the cut blade and immobilizer chip but not the remote board. You could get this if you need a second or third key for your car.

I noticed that the microswitches on your board have indeed broken off. I do key repair and can put new switches on your board and put it into a new case- I even have flip/switchblade style cases for these two button keys.

I can repair most keys for around $50 or less; if you want to go the flip key route it's a few dollars more for the blade cutting charge (the existing blade can't be used with the flip key). You can e-mail me at "[email protected]" or visit my FB page at MINI Key Hospital

Hopefully that link is right. As far as remote board frequencies are concerned, I check every key with a spectrum analyzer (I work as a TV technician in the maintenance shop and in our uplink trucks) and have found that the U.S. keys and the Australian keys both use the frequency of 315 Mhz +/- a few Khz and European keys use the frequency of 433 Mhz.

Bruce Hart
MINI Key Hospital