I'd suggest cracking open the chain tensioner bolt BEFORE removing the motor mounts. Or its better to do that -- hella torque on that bolt (especially if it never been changed before). From my POV, the key to these jobs is removing the engine bracket for the simple fact you'll have less interference with parts in your way trying to get r done (it has to be removed for the chain tensioner R&R anyway). Then pulley tensioner is the much easier to deal with. +1 on the technic mount. Its super nice!
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Canusrufis RMW Powered R53Lifetime Supporter
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Great info. I had forgotten about modMini's headgasket video. I kept searching and always found the chain tensioner video, never this one.
The tensioner itself is best removed when you drop the subframe and pull the axles - totally open access. I could kick myself for not doing the tensioner on the dark silver car last summer when that side of the engine was all open and exposed.
Thing is, some of that rattle I am hearing in my cars is coming from the transmission, not the timing chain. Easy test and very repeatable on my daily driver: cold start, let clutch out fast, there's the knocking/rattle sound. Then push the clutch back in and release very slowly, noise is gone. I read about this on NAM but never got an explanation as to what is behind that noise, but it is something very common to those cars I understand. Higher mileage manual transmission R53s seem to have that noise depending on how you release the clutch. It is only audible when the transmission is un neutral and you release the clutch quickly, at least in 2 of my cars. The 32k mile car doesn't do it (yet). -
I sure hope that's all it is - "easy" fix compared to anything else
But why would the throw out bearing make noise if you release the clutch fast and then make no noise when you move your foot back a little slower? Same condition - it's spinning on the shaft in the same place. I don't have a link, but others have shown that it's not always clutch related. Maybe I'll record the sound. Easy to replicate on my blue car. -
@fishmonger Perhaps when released tased it moves further back on the shaft. How many miles on the clutch?
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agranger MINI of the Month June 2009Supporting MemberI might have had a hard time doing the tensioner (it took several minutes to figure out how to get the old way me out and the new one in (even with the engine mount removed), but it might be possible. I needed to replace the engine mount, so I grouped this first batch of engine work so that I could do everything over on that side of the engine while I had all of the room granted by stripping it off.
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88k on the one that makes the most noise, 100k on the other that sounds similar, but not as loud and not as often. Sounds louder/worse when the transmission is cold.
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Mine made a noice till I changed it at 150k. When it was cold sometimes My clutch would make a squealing noise.
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agranger MINI of the Month June 2009Supporting Member
Decided to work on the thermostat housing and thermostat replacement today. I spent 90% of my time fighting with a stripped out and rusty filister head screw that didn't want to move for the longest time... then decided to break off, leaving the shaft down in the threaded bracket. Luckily the bracket was only $11, so 2 new screws and a bracket are on the way. Sigh.
My new valve cover bolts arrived, but there are 2 different sizes (8 short ones, 4 tall ones). The vendor decided to send all tall ones. Morons! -
neat red springs. Not what Colin was selling 2 years ago (blue) or you went mega special custom.
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agranger MINI of the Month June 2009Supporting MemberThey are a cool copper color. I told Colin how I drove, how I intended to use the car and what I was going for in terms of other mods and trusted him to choose the right springs for the application.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
They are Swift springs they color them different for different spring rates. Excellent choice !
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
Love my Greene coilovers!!!
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glad you got a chance to inhale some high octane
Fuel pump in my daily driver is on the to-do list for next summer. The other two cars, when I turn the key, have a very clearly audible pump putting pressure on the line. The Electric Blue car does not. Hear nothing. It works, but no sound. Wonder what I will find in there, given the non-Mini harmonic balancer the "mechanic husband" of the original owner put in, I may just have some non-Mini fuel pump in there as well.
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