Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: Replace the front control arm bushing without removing the subframe

  1. Ed Abbe

    Ed Abbe New Member

    Jan 18, 2018
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    #14 Ed Abbe, Jan 26, 2018
    I did this tonight but didn’t have access to the write up as the server was down. I neglected to loosen the steering rack bolts but the subframe dropped enough for clearance anyway. I opted to replace the control arm complete with ball joints from Dorman on Amazon for $40 each. Got the pre pressed power flex bushings and all told form jack up to jack down 3.5 hours.
     
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  2. Sully

    Sully Administrator
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    #15 Sully, Jan 29, 2018
    @Ed Abbe - sorry, we are still working on getting all the articles up (big thanks to @MCS02 for that). Also, good to know you were able to get it done in 3.5 hours.. nice "time" marker..
     
  3. Steve

    Steve Administrator
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    #2 Steve, Nov 13, 2009
    Well done Ron, thanks for posting this!

    Couple bits of clarification though:

    That article has my name/username in the "who posted it" area only because I loaded it to the Library for Chad and that is the limit of my contribution to both his project and yours. Chad's M/A username is agocart and that's his article; credit where it's actually due.

    No special tools other a hydraulic press and a 3-jaw puller...those are unusual tools in many garages.
     
  4. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #3 Nathan, Nov 13, 2009

    Yes, quite well done, thanks for posting.

    The guide does point out that one should purchase a carrier/bushing assembly. Granted it is late in the text but, one should have read over the guide before starting.

    3 Jaw pullers are easy to rent for the weekend, local Autozone stores may even lend them with a small deposit that is returned when the tool is brought back.
     
  5. Way Motor Works

    Way Motor Works New Member

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    #4 Way Motor Works, Nov 13, 2009
    That's a good write up. Makes it look alot easier than it is. It could be done in your garage, that's why we offer both the Alta and Powerflex bushings prepressed into the brackets.
     
  6. RonsMinnie

    RonsMinnie New Member
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    #5 RonsMinnie, Nov 13, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
    Thanks for the kind words.

    Thanks for the correcting the credits -- I went back and corrected the pdf file.

    As far as the tools go, I was coming from the perspective of the $300+ BMW tool that some use for this install. My $10 Harbor Freight 3 jaw puller is pretty un-special in comparison.

    In hind sight I should have purchased the bushing pressed in the carrier from somebody like "way" and I probably should have stated that clearly. The time it took to stop, drive to my work, press out and in the bushings and then drive back took almost as much time as the rest of the work.

    It was not near as bad as I expected. The tough part was removing the 2 bolts that mount the bushing carriers to the sub frame, THEY WERE TIGHT AND LONG --- the work space is very tight, no impacts or long cheater bars here. The PS was especially tough.

    I now highly recommend buying the bushings pressed into the carriers from someone like you --- It is worth every penny!
     
  7. xalfa

    xalfa New Member

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    #6 xalfa, Dec 22, 2009
    Thanks for this post. I am considering attempting this on my R53 and doing both the CA and swaybar bushings. Couple of quick questions...

    1) When you say Gen 2 do you mean R56? If so, what would be the differences if doing this on an R50/53? Removing torx bolts on the steering rack (R56) versus pinch bolt on the steering linkage (R53)?

    2) For those who have installed Powerflex poly CA bushings, how hard is it to press a new poly insert (purple) onto the control arm? Would it be reasonable to do this with the control arm still mounted like in this process?
     
  8. RonsMinnie

    RonsMinnie New Member
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    #7 RonsMinnie, Dec 22, 2009
    Ron
     
  9. Arlene

    Arlene New Member

    Apr 28, 2010
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    #8 Arlene, Apr 28, 2010
    changing contro arm bushings

    Hi, I see you mentioned Sonichris gave a description on how to change the control arm bushings on the Gen 1 mini. Can you tell me where I can find that? Thanks,
    Arlene
     
  10. Dr Obnxs

    Dr Obnxs New Member

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    #9 Dr Obnxs, Apr 28, 2010
    What kind of pusssy mechanic doesn't have a three jaw puller? ;)

    Matt
     
  11. RonsMinnie

    RonsMinnie New Member
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    #10 RonsMinnie, Apr 28, 2010
  12. Minimoto

    Minimoto New Member

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    #11 Minimoto, Apr 13, 2012
    Yesterday I followed Ron's great PDF and did this on the garage floor. Got the bushings off the car no real issue(3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight), just tight on the rear bolt for CAB to Frame. This took as much time as everything else to unbolt. Took the bushings to a local machine shop who pressed out the old ones for $20. The new Powerflex went right in with some soapy water. All back together. About 2hrs both directions. No real hurry as it was my first time.
     
  13. k_h_d

    k_h_d New Member

    Dec 8, 2013
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    #12 k_h_d, Dec 8, 2013
    Resurrect and old thread...

    Can this method be used to access and remove/replace the front swaybar?
     
  14. sdminidude

    sdminidude New Member

    Nov 23, 2014
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    #13 sdminidude, Nov 23, 2014
    Stuck at the "Very Tough" part!

    This was such a great write up, that I purchased the Powerflex bushings and started this project myself. However now I am stuck! On my R56, this process only drops the subframe about 1.5 inches. I don't see how I will remove the rear 5 inch bushing carrier mounting bolt as there is only 1.5 inches of clearance between the bolt and the underside of the floor. I know this post is 5 years old at this point, but does anyone who performed this process have any insight on how to remove the 5 inch long bolt, with only 1.5 inches of clearance? Thanks in advance!