1st Gen R53 Cooper S Replacing cylinder head....what do I need? Tips?

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by Vernon29RW, Jul 18, 2009.

  1. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

    May 22, 2009
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    Hey everybody,

    Back in February I had one of my Denso Iridium plugs pop out of my #3 cylinder and destroyed the threads on my cylinder head. I had a time-sert insert installed along with some Brisk 4 prong plugs and the car has been running ever since. Problem is ever since this happened its been running horribly under load with a severe hesitation under 3000 rpms (I have posted about this before so I'm not gonna get into it). Well I was able to snag a used head for $250 and I'm going to put that head in and see if that eliminates my problem. I've been weary of that insert ever since it was installed. I just wanted to know from some of you guys that have either done them or seen them installed what exactly I need, what I can reuse, and what to expect going into this. I know i'm gonna need a head, intake, and exhaust gasket (assuming none of them are reusable) along with coolant and oil but anything else? head bolts? other misc gaskets? I do have a Bentley manual which I will be going to often I'm sure. I've also done a motor swap on a VW GTI in the past and consider myself pretty mechanically inclined. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer.

    Steve
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Might want to go over the head fully and be sure all the seals and gaskets in the head are in good shape.

    Instead of head bolts you could move to a stud such as those from ARP. There are also some better quality exhaust manifold fasteners out there too. Stage 8 has a real nice locking header bolt.

    MINI has an upper Gasket Kit but I forget all that it comes with. Part # is 11-12-0-147-561
     
  3. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

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    oh they do make a gasket kit? that's good. I was actually going to bring that head to an engine shop and have them clean it up a bit. It came off a car with 80,000 miles so its a little dirty. Any idea where I could get a set of those arp bolts or do you know the thread pitch and length?
     
  4. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Check the M/A sponsors....

    I see the Detroit Tuned has them on sale right now.
     
  5. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

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    ok found the arp kit part# 201-4301. Is it true Victor Reinz is the OEM gasket supplier for BMW? I read that on someone carrying a gasket kit for our cars. I'm gonna be into the gaskets and studs more than what I paid for the head! :lol:

    Steve
     
  6. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    Before installing the head, have it pressure tested, vacuum test, crack test, and the deck tested for trueness.

    The gasket kit costs $264.13, gaskets needed for the head swap plus cam chain tensioner plunger $163.26, forget the kit.

    I also replace all sensor O-rings and valve cover gasket but you can re-use them.

    Head gasket (.65mm)
    Intake manifold gasket
    Exhaust manifold gasket
    Intercooler output duct gasket
    Cam chain tensioner
    Camshaft bolt
    Supercharger intake duct gasket
    Hose clamp for the BPV tube

    To save money now use the OEM head bolts, to save money in the long run get head studs; OE bolts are one time use, studs are reusable.

    Now for the unsolicited advice, I doubt the time-sert is causing your problem, have a compression test and leak down test before swapping heads. From my perspective it is not productive to swap the head with another OE spec if it’s functional to begin with. My recommendation is, save your money and have the spare head performance ported, this way you get an as-new head and a performance boost. Also, It does no good to swap the head if for example, a failed spark plug wire was the original problem, the problem will still be there with a replacement head.
     
  7. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    + 1

    On Keith's post.
     
  8. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

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    Keith,
    Thanks for all the advice man I do appreciate it. I have a compression test gauge so I can do that myself but where can I go to get a reputable leak down test performed?? Engine shop? The only reason why I was going to just put another stock head on is because the price difference between buying a performance head and just throwing a stocker back on is drastically different!! Even to have it ported and polished is just unnecessary money right now. But I can understand why you would suggest it :Thumbsup:
    I installed new plugs and new oem wires. Replaced the BPV with a DT one, swapped out the tmap sensor, and tested the map sensor for correct voltage all not fixing the problem. I think it may be the coil or throttle plate motor but its hard to test those for proper signals. I thought it was related to the time-sert/head because the problem immediately began after the car was back up and running from the plug popping out. Anyways I'm not gonna get into all that again. We have a thread going on here and "the other site" about it. Thanks again though for all the advice guys. Its much appreciated.

    Steve
     
  9. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    Find an ASE certified mechanic.
     
  10. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    #10 Nitrominis, Jul 19, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2009
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  11. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Do you have a compressor? Harbor Freight has an inexpensive Leak Down tester. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices While I'd not use it if was making a living testing engines as it probably could not stand up to the rigors of daily use for the occasional use it's quite handy to have on hand.
     
  12. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    #12 Nitrominis, Jul 19, 2009
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  13. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

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    Damn $35!!! That's great...thanks Nate for the link. Yeah I figure the average shop would charge at least a minimum 1 hour labor at $90-$100 that gets a little crazy! Although I personally don't have a compressor I know a few people that do that I'm sure they would let me use. BTW the Bentley manual should have all the correct specs that I'll be looking for right?

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  14. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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    #14 Nitrominis, Jul 19, 2009
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  15. Thumper460

    Thumper460 Active Member

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    As said above... I have just a bit more..
    1) If the cam tensioner isnt giving issues.. you dont need to change it. Can re-use the cam bolt.
    2) use the ARP studs..great security and better clamping ( $120.00 or less on Ebay)
    3) You CAN reuse the exhaust and intake gaskets with just a bit of RTV ( they are metal)
    4) Head gasket MUST be replaced!!
    5) Head MUST be surfaced flat ( aluminum heads will move around ) for the MLS Gasket.. it HAS to be flat!!
    6) mark the cam chain and the cam sprocket.. do NOT drop the chain, I hold the chain with a bungee cord to keep it tight on the lower crank gear while the head is off. (some say the chain will not slip on the crank gear.. well it DID on me by one tooth.. be carefully) then on install, align the marks on the chain and gear.. and the cam will be in the correct phase.
    7) Intake is a tight remove.. however it can be done without pulling the whole front of the engine bay as stated in the manuals.. cool??

    Have fun....

    Just me............................................

    Thumper

    PS: It is always the right way to change all the gaskets... cool?
     
  16. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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  17. Way Motor Works

    Way Motor Works New Member

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    I'm sorry but I'm and ASE tech and ASE has nothing to do with MINI's. It just means you know how to take a written test. Not trying to cut any ASE techs down, but the ASE tests are all about American made cars. Heck BMW doesn't even reconize ASE certification, or even require it.
     
  18. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

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  19. Detroit Tuned

    Detroit Tuned Well-Known Member
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    Give me a call for some ARP Head studs. i have a few in stock i would like to move. i can give some deals. :)

    ARP HeadStuds
     
  20. Vernon29RW

    Vernon29RW New Member

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    Hey Thumper,
    Thanks for the tips. I knew most of them but when you say the head must be surfaced flat you mean that any old gasket material be removed and to recondition the aluminum surface right? You don't actually mean removing aluminum material do you? I dont see why that would need to be done unless the head was overheated and warped. That's a good heads up about the timing chain slipping off the crank gear. I was given a neat tip by a friend of mine who used to be a Mini tech. He said they used to zip tie the chain and the cam gear together ensuring that the teeth wont slip off but I never thought about the crank gear so I'm gonna have to mark that one anyways. Thanks for the tip. And yes it is always right to change ALL the gaskets which is why I'm gonna just keep it simple and pick up a gasket kit that way I know i'll change everything to new.

    Chad,
    I'll try to give you a call sometime this week coming up. I was wondering if ARP studs are overkill on my street car but if it does provide better clamping force? (is this really true for a street driven car?) than I guess the price can justify it, although I havent priced out a set of head bolts from Mini yet but I'm sure they don't come cheap either!!

    Thanks,
    Steve
     

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