1st Gen R50 Cooper Most liked posts in thread: RMW Remote Tune experience?

I didnt read all of the 4 pages.. however there is a great mod for the r50!!
1) a good water meth system ( $550.00- $895.00 USD) then 2) add in a Nitrous wet shot. Keeping it real at a 40-50 HP shot. ( 500-600.00 usd)

Now you have all the fun of really waking up the guy next to ya when you hit the bottle.

Keeping conservative on the HP output from the NOS, you will have a lot of fun for a LONG time with No issues!!

SOOooooooo.... there is a 50+ WHP for as little as 1000.00 to 1500.00!! Keeping all your original Inj and tunes.. yes??

Just saying..........................

Thumper

 

LOL... See I should have researched your ideas..lol sorry!!

Thumper

 

Now I'd say wait till you can afford your parts and make the trip down to Jan..
Canned tune on your car now will get you to about 113 HP and tq. While a nice increase not what you can get if getting head,cam and other parts in a year or so..''. Just be careful to now out HP the clutch/tranny...

 

HP comes at a price.. Assuming the Cam/Tune plus cam install runs about $1100-$1300
for 15-20 HP that is a wide range of cost per HP. Anywhere from about $50 to $80 per..
Depending on how much you end up with. Add in the roughly $2400 head plus install, and I'm guessing 12-16 HP, if doing all that you might as well do a header too.. Whew that is going to be pricey but you may end up with 35-40 HP and TQ increase.. Plus a much better curve with it all through out!!!
Cam-$400 + install
Head-$2400 + install
Header-$300-$900 + install
Tune- $400 + or - not sure what Jan charges as his place..
At those prices your at $100 per HP, really over 100 per with labor rate factored in and depending on how much HP/TQ you end up with..
I'm guessing well over $4000 total parts and labor... and at best 150 HP ( I know Jan has built a full race R50 motor to 200 HP )
I'm in the same boat as you, I'd like to have more power but already spend a fortune on my current car and don't want to start over with an R53. I don't have/not willing to spend the money to do what your doing BUT if I did, I'd have to look hard at what it would cost to find a good complete R53 driveline and switch it over. You instantly have much more power then what your going to end up with here.. and I'd bet for not much more money if any more.. $2500 for driveline and then $2000 for install..( guessing here ) Just something to think about...

 

With just a tune you'll probably end up with around 112-115 HP & TQ How much you actually gain will depend on how good/bad your engine is currently. I only gained 7 or 8 peak HP. Jan said my car was alittle stronger then most already, so I didn't gain as much.
Did have some areas within the TQ curve that I gained around 12 foot pounds..
So while I spent $500 it was worth it to me and came out to less then $100 per HP

but of course check with Jan for all prices, labor rates, and HP estimates...

 

Depending on how much your having to pay for your tune I'm pretty sure you'll think it is worth it.. It's not like it will be suddenly a whole different car. You will pick up most of your Tq in the mid and upper half of the RPM range.. Which seems to be what your after... It's not going to do too much below 3000-3500 but you'll gain some around there and it will really wake up at 4000 up to 5500..

 

Yeah, I'd love to have another 20-30 HP but just not cost effective to get it on a Cooper.

 

This is a very good post--I would only edit that instead of looking hard at what it would take to swap a drivetrain, I would look at what it would take to swap R50 for R53. Your dollar to HP ratio would look tons better. I think that the OP has considered this. I have had this conversation with quite a few R50 owners over the years and have never once convinced the R50er to swap for a supercharged car. Maybe it's the perceived hassle of swapping cars, or maybe it's the love for the 50, or maybe it's my poor persuasive skills, but people hang on to their R50s.

 

I can't speak for others but for me, the reason I'd think more of getting the R53 driveline from a wrecked car and swapping that way is once I get the car back from you it's done.
If swapping all my stuff to a good R53 which will cost much more then just getting a driveline from somewhere, I also need you to put the R53 stuff on to my R50 so I can sell it...I could probably swap most of it over my self, just a matter of taking the time to do it and being able to afford the R53 before selling the R50.. and I'd no longer have my Hot Orange paint which is the reason I have an R50 to start with. HO only came in Cabrio, which added to the cost of the car, moving up to the "S" car was more money then I was willing to spend in 06 when I bought it new for around 24,500..
I currently have 111,000 miles and still running strong, but have been thinking more lately of what to do when it's time for a clutch and or engine rebuild..
If your willing to throw out ballpark price for the drivetrain swap.. and if you have seen any decent R53 drivetrain prices..

 

1- I doubt it. Anything is possible I guess, but never heard of anything like that happening.
2- Probably not as much difference on a non "S" street car.
3- No idea

 

1. Yes, if you don't have a good constant voltage from the battery you can brick the ECU. Have a battery tender connected during the flash process. It is very very rare that this happens but be safe.

2. Don't bother, when you are out of 94 range you may suffer if pushed to hard.

3. Yes, discuss with Jan as to the goals.

 

1. No not really, but no arguments with Nate's statements if you need some risk aversion or even just have a possibly weak battery.
2. Best to select a grade, then use it or higher exclusively
3. Yes

The goal is area under the curve (ie drive-ability) , not peak. Be realistic with your expectations and you will be happy with the end result.

 

Do the 91 if you ever plan on a road trip. Its all we have in parts of the country. You might miss out on 1 HP but its worth the extra safegaurd.

 

Or keep a Dimsport in the car and switch to a 91 tune if you can't find 93

 

Yes.. there always is a risk!! however they are very few and far inbetween...cool??

KEEP the 91 tune and get the benefit of a slower fuel burn on the 94 when you can find it.

YES.. it is an easy tweek to get the pedal responsive and loose the Spirit Booster!! Jan can do that on the tune.

Just me.................................

Thumper