Most liked posts in thread: Rollbar?

  1. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #15 cct1, Feb 13, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015


    That sterrt driving will kill you. You definitely want a rollbar for that. There is an upcoming article in MC2 about sterrt driving, watch for it...:D
     
  2. BetaMini

    BetaMini New Member

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    Custom-built. Using the guy that TCKline recommended.
     
  3. Crashton

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    Cardboard roll bars. Funny, but true story, while parting out an old MG we pulled the padding off the roll bar only to discover it was made of PVC plumbers pipe. :lol:
     
  4. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    TC Kline over on the west side of Columbus would be a good place to stop in for a chat.
     
  5. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    That's the best way to go, post pics when you get it in.
     
  6. rigidjunkie

    rigidjunkie New Member

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    Plus 1 on those saying bar only if tracking. I would love to keep my Miata roll barless, but since it is going on track it is required and makes sense from a safety perspective for the track. Realistically my car will be safer 10% of the time (while on track) and more dangerous the other 90% of the time (sterrt driving).

    If you are doing it for the looks just get some cardboard tubes and wrap them in tin foil :)
     
  7. rigidjunkie

    rigidjunkie New Member

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    Chuck that sounds awesome!

    Also my bar is going in Sunday. Midwest Miata Parts is helping me, its a Miata graveyard in Grove City. The owner is an autoXer and good guy. He has a very interesting car:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It was called 21 flavors for a while then they started adding up the actual number of cars that donated parts and it was renamed 51 flavors.
     
  8. rigidjunkie

    rigidjunkie New Member

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    Mine went in fairly easy (we missed a spacer the first time but caught it before we made it too far. I didn't get any god pics before the hardtop went back on but the rear visibility is pretty terrible now:

    [​IMG]

    I think the hard dog sticker is going to come off, but otherwise I am very happy with the end results:

    [​IMG]

    Chuck mine came with padding, but I do not know how old it is so I will likely replace it. Whoever put it on didn't know how to cut the ends off zip ties there are a couple that are very sharp.

    Also added benefit is my hardtop actually fits better now, the roll bar stiffened the car up a good bit so now the hardtop doesn't squeak going over bumps.
     
  9. rigidjunkie

    rigidjunkie New Member

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    No harness this year. Race seats and harnesses will likely be my winter 2016 project.

    Zip ties were also chained so there are 2 ties where only 1 is needed if you have the proper length. I will likely replace the padding use proper ties then cover in vinyl with some additional padding.
     
  10. CHKMINI

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    Nathan has aftermarket seats and a roll bar in his R53. (The Gnat)
     
  11. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Having seen an Auto Power bar & a Safety Devices I'd say go with a Safety Devices. The fit is better IMO. Nathan has a safety Devices bar & aftermarket seats in his MINI.
     
  12. BetaMini

    BetaMini New Member

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    Hmm, can't seem to find a bar. Just a cage. (Safety devices site).
     
  13. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #5 Nathan, Feb 12, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2015
    Yep, I have the Safety Devices one.

    The seats lose a little bit to the rear depending on the seat and angle.

    Safety Devices makes a cage for US non-sunroof 1st Gen MINIs as found at BMW Mini R50/53 Hatchback 6 Point Bolt-in Roll Cage | Safety Devices

    You can purchase RBB024 5SXX - Rear cage, cross diagonal and harness bar. Use with cross door bars only. May be used alone. Note: Door trim requires modification and racing seats must be used.

    However, and this is the real fun part that the shop (no longer in business) I purchased it from didn't tell me. The yokes to bolt in the halo and door bars are on there. Being I'm not a fan of puncturing body parts the shop in Dallas (where I lived at the time) did an incredible job of removing said protrusions. The affected areas were refinished. You can't tell. They added harness guides too.

    It also had to be cut down some for the sunroof. Same seller (thankfully out of business) said it was for a sunroof car. Even said so on my invoice.

    [​IMG]

    Link to album of rollbar pics.
     
  14. BetaMini

    BetaMini New Member

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    Thx Nathan! You going to be at the next Tim Horton's mtg? I'd like to check it out.
     
  15. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    I think I'll be there, depends on the weather. Neither the Me or the Car runs well in extreme cold.
     
  16. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    #8 cct1, Feb 13, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
    I have the autopower, I really like it,it looks similar to Nate's. They two sizes, depending on whether or not your car has a sun roof. The rear panels need modification as well on the autopower.

    The nice thing is that I can fit four tires in the back easily, something that you can't do with the Sneed bar, not sure about Nate's. If the tire thing is important (it is to me), if Nate can get four tires in, I'd go for the cheaper of the two. With the rear seat out, the concave area is perfect for setting in four tires for the track.

    I don't have the harness guides, that's a nice touch.

    But if I had it to do over again, I'd go custom at a racing shop and have it welded in. Oh yeah, and full cage too. Which I may do down the road. At that point it will no longer be a street car.

    I still have stock seats, it really doesn't restrict movement much, if any. Those will be coming out.

    EDIT: Eric is right. If you're doing this for the track, get it welded in. Or you can get one of the cosmetic (though not functional) bars from Autopower, although if you're not tracking, I wouldn't get one. The bolt in is kind of a compromise, I'd do it differently if I had to do it over. But I'm at the point where I may not drive on the street much, if any, at this point. It's trailer time....
     
  17. Eric@Helix

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    Just so people understand, a roll bar is a safety device designed for dedicated track cars. They actually are less safe for the road: they restrict airbag deployment, and are a hard object for you to smash into during an accident.

    Installation of any bar is tricky because of it's size. If you are removing the interior to weld it in, you have more space to move about but a typical roll bar that's sold for street use is typically bolted in, meaning you have to accurate fit-n-drill. When you drill the floor, be sure to put rust retardant on the bare metal.
     
  18. Crashton

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    A cage on the street is not safe. They are meant to be used by someone wearing a helmet. The rear cage or roll bar, will be fine for a street driven car. Make sure to pad anywhere you may contact it. If you are going to track your MINI I'd say put a bar in it, if it is for cool looks only I'd skip it.

    Disclaimer..... I drove my rally car & race car on the street with a full cage for years. It was padded really well, but I was younger & dumber back then. :eek:ut:

    My Safety Devices cage was the best fitting bolt in cage I have ever seen. I had a Kirk cage in one of the race cars & while it passed muster at tech it was the worst fitting cage I've ever seen.
     
  19. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Yes I agree, if I go full cage, the car is a trailer queen at that point. Or drive on the street with a helmet, I guess that would be ok, I'm sure the police would love it.
     
  20. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    I can't get 4 tires in the back. Only when 1 is conveyed in the passenger seat can I carry 4.

    I gotta say, the car is stiff as hell from the roll bar.

    Gravel roads are an adventure. The gravel hits the mounting points creating a cacophony that resonates through the tubes.