I foamed it twice but otherwise no touching the paint at all.
Hope you enjoyed that!!!
Richard[/quote]
Pretty interesting what you go through to achieve perfect results.
Just curious, what's the purpose of the blue plastic tarp on the floor? Plastic and soap would seem to make for slippery footing than say concrete and soap?
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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Octaneguy New Member
The main reason for the tarp is to contain the water. I'm going to be adding berms to contain it further. Ultimately I want to be able to vacuum up the water so that I can wash the cars, and collect the run off for disposal instead of putting them out into the environment.
But you're right, it does get pretty slippery when wet, lol.
Richard
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
Thanks for this thread....always wondered how these worked and why.
But I do have one question...is it really necessary to use a pressure washer to rinse it off? Why wouldn't a regular hose and sprayer work? Can you also use a wash mitt or should you just let the foam do its thing? -
Octaneguy New Member
You are welcome and thank you!
The difference in foam density is night and day. With a foam gun, the foam is runny and requires more water than a foam cannon.
The thicker foam from a cannon lets it's dwell longer on the paint such that you shoot it, and for 10 minutes or so, it works on its own. So like on my Clubman, I had dust buildup from sitting in my garage for 2 weeks while I was out of the country, and a week of being parked outside near the freeway. It took me less than 5 minutes to foam it, spent the next 20 minutes walking to lunch, came back talked to customer, looked at the Clubbie which most of the foam had run off, then I rinsed it with the pressure washer, had to do a demo, so I didn't hand dry it at all. I pulled the Clubbie outside, and began working on the customers car.
Later on I checked the paint after it air dried and it was completely clean. No dust, no dirt, no residue.
A regular hose couldn't shot out distilled water and it couldn't build up sufficient foam for this sort of cleaning ability. The big advantage of using a PW is that my water source can be controlled as well as the flow rate (to a certain degree).
On the truck example, I foam cannoned it twice, and still had to come back by hand as there was a thin layer of film left behind. Is it worth it to use the foam cannon when you still have to work by hand? It depends. In some cases, a foam cannon is all you need, and other cases, it's a fast prewash that gets rid of 80 to 90% of the most swirl inducing grit on the paint so that when you do hand wash it, your chances of scratching, swirling, or marring it is further greatly reduced.
Richard
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
Thanks....didn't realize you used the PW for the foam cannon. Missed that part.
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Octaneguy New Member
Just a curious question...are you seeing the pictures in the thread? The second picture is this...
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
I did. but my first impression was that you were rinsing it off, didn't notice the cannon attached.
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Octaneguy New Member
Aww ok, cool.
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Octaneguy New Member
Today I took some measurements for your pleasure, lol.
Dipping the TDS meter probe into my 60 gallons of shop generated distilled water
Now I filled a small cup with tap water
The meter now reads 402PPM of Total Dissolved Solids! That's sure to guarantee spots on your car!
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Interesting write up. Thanks for sharing.
I picked up one of those home use things that filters the water for a spot free rinse (Mr. Clean, I think???) late last summer for about $6 and the couple of times I used it before cold weather hit, it did work as advertised. I rinsed GTiki, let it sit and it dried with no spots whatsoever without having to shammy it.
Makes sense, get rid of the crap that makes the spots, get rid of the spots! -
Octaneguy New Member
Yep, those work fine for a few washes and then need to replaced. The cost per wash is kind of high and there is no way to know how well it's working without a meter but they do work as advertised. The Mr. Clean soap isn't that great however. Spot free washing is the best!
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I took the plunge and made the investment
Think it was a good one
I didn't buy the super deluxe one OG did cause that is some serious professional grade stuff
I ended up buying a upper end model Karcher (2000 psi). Research I did seemed to indicate the $200 and < units were not that long lived sad to say. I wanted a electric one cause I did not want one more gas engine to maintain
Decision was driven by the Autobrite foam canon that OG recommended. I could not get a straight answer from the other mfg's I was considering of what type of fitting they have that would or would not work with the canon. Karcher was a option so that was the tipping point.
I've used it a total of 4X now and after messing around with the foam canon settings I think it was a good investment
I have noticed that there is a little dirt film left on parts of the car when I dry with MF Towel and Hydro. Considering this is the first contact with the paint up to this time in the wash process I think it's perfectly acceptable. This grime to my thinking does not have allot of grit thus it is not scratching
I know I am using less water and I'm pretty sure I am cutting off about 15min on my wash routine. Most importantly I am cutting down on my contact with the paint drastically
Heres the typical-
Rinse the car well paying attn to heavy deposits with PW
Foam Canon it top to bottom
Let is sit while I take some Griot's Wheel Wash to the Wheels with brushes
Rinse well
Blow off excess water with leaf blower (seems theres less water on car than using traditional hose)
Dry/Hydro with MF drying towel
Reapply wheel dressing or redo black trim with Black Wow
Clean all windows with Clarity
Metal polish to exhaust tips
Straighten/stow all the tools and car products
One hour flat -
Octaneguy New Member
Good to see that you got a foam cannon! What soap are you using? That makes all the difference. Also, remember the drawback of the pre-rinse. Once the paint is wet, the foam won't dwell as long, which is important to loosening and cleaning the paint. So you'll have to weigh the pros and cons of whether to pre-rinse or just foam, possibly twice.
I'm now using a product called Poly's Detailing Fluid along with the foam cannon on super dirty cars. I will spray Poly's on the worst of the spots, including the wheels. Then foam right over it. Again for absolutely the worst of the cars...I had one car that hadn't been washed in 3 months and it sat outside the whole time...touchless foaming and Poly's wasn't enough, but after doing the process, a few squirts of Poly's let me wipe it down easily enough. I could have done the two bucket method instead of the Poly's wipe down.
The point is, since you are washing your own car...you can now wash your car weekly or every two weeks, and keeping it maintained like that, it should respond to the foam much better.
I'm using about 2oz of Hyper Wash in a 32oz bottle of distilled water. I might mix-in 2 to 3 oz of Mystique if I want extra gloss just after the wash.
Richard
Richard
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I musta missed something on the pre-rinse, i'll try without
Also gonna try the Griot's wheel wash as a first pass on wheels, no brush, then foam canon and rinse
Also listened to you on the McGuirar's Hyper Wash although not as you suggest, missed the distilled water part too!. I filled up the bottle of the foam canon (1 liter I believe) about a 1/3 of the way with straight Hyper Wash. I've done 4 washings and I hardly have used prob 1/2 or less of the 1/3 fill so a little goes along way