Brakes Wheels 1st Gen Tires Most liked posts in thread: Soft pedal?

Never add fluid from an open container. Good way to have your fluid boil. You haven't lived until you are heading downhill in to a tight turn & you try to brake & all you have is bubbles for fluid. Big time yikes! Only happened to me once, but it is an experience I will never forget & hopefully never repeat.

 

I'm going to switch my fluid out using Stop Tech STR-660. It has the same wet boiling point as the Motul, but its dry boiling point beats it.

I've never used this before so I'll let you know how I like it, should I survive this experiment of using a non-Dave O approved product. :wink:

 

If there is air in the ABS, you'll need someone with the tool to get it out--either the stealer or an independent shop with a tool.

The other possibility is a bad master cylinder. Turn the car on, and push hard on the pedal--what happens when you do this, with constant, firm pressure?

Also, check your lines--if fluid is leaking out, air is leaking in.

 

I got it (autoenginuity) on discount, I think it was from one of Paul's link to bimmerzone, about 100 bucks less, it was on sale or I had a discount code, can't remember which. It was still pricey...

The flip side is ask the dealer how much they'll charge to do it. Since I'm staying with a MINI forever, it made more sense (for me) to fork over for the tool, as much as I work on my brakes for track stuff.

It does more than the ABS though, so there's that.

 

With air in the lines it will never feel firm.

 

Bleed all 4 again

 

Has the fluid in the reservoir ever been below the "min" line when bleeding or changing fluid? If so, you probably have air in the ABS system. Because of where the reservoir outlet is located, the reservoir will never look completely empty, but it's still empty enough to get air in the lines.

As for the dark color when bleeding the rears... Could be just old fluid in the calipers or lines.

 

What kind of pads?
Know that some pads, like akeebonoo pads, and feel kinds soft for a few miles...mine felt like I had air in the system, even after bedding them....but they firmed up after about 1000 miles...put them on with new high carbon rotors 3000 miles ago...the factory machining marks are still on the rotors the pads are so rotor friendly...lol.

 

https://www.autoenginuity.com

It's expensive. You need the base scan tool AND the BMW/MINI extensions - just under $500 total.

The OEM scan tool can be had for much less, though not legitimately...

 

Thanks for the reminder - yeah, currently $431 at bimmerzone, and sometimes you can find discount codes for them, I think.

Autoenginuity - OBD-II Scantool W/ Enhanced BMW Expansion : Bimmerzone.com

 

If you're doing it only once, then a shop is going to be cheaper. If you're doing it multiple times, get the tool IMHO. It's not just for bleeding the ABS...

 

FWIW, I would only buy this tool if you're a serious DIY'er. I've used mine MANY times over the past few years for ALL KINDS of diagnostics on the MINI and several BMWs. It's super expensive just to do a single ABS bleed. It's not, if you like to DIY and if it prevents multiple non-warranty trips to the dealer.

 

I have no experience with ATE blue, but I have some with silicone brake fluid.

Silicone bake fluid (DOT 5) is slightly compressible and causes a soft feel to the brake pedal. It shouldn't be used in ABS brake systems.

Is ATE blue, DOT 5?

 

ATE Blue is DOT 4

It's the same as the fluid MINI/BMW uses but is colored Blue.

 

I didn't feel a difference when Chad put the SS brake lines on my MINI. I know they are better than the oem lines. Changing them out isn't going to solve this problem.

Are your rear pads indexed into the piston correctly. I have seen that cause a similar problem.

 

I use Motul RBF600 Synthetic DOT 4 Brake Fluid 500 ml and you can buy it on Amazon for $17.50.

You need 3 for a complete flush.