Most liked posts in thread: Stripped Oil Pan Threads

Been there done that.

Just get a helicoil and use the tool it comes with to thread the aluminum pan and insert the steel helicoil and use a new OEM oil pan drain bolt.
It will be stronger than the OEM set up when you are done. I have had this set up for a while now.

 

This comes to mind....

 

I don't like him, but I have no desire to helicoil him then hit him with a fumoto chaser.

It just sounds so....wrong.

 

Was that a stud conversion?

 

You have that backwards. He'd going from a lug bolt to a bolt hole. Oh my.....

 

Be careful with the magnetic drain plug. It is VERY thin shelled because of the magnet. It trashed my oil pan, had to do some jury rigging to make it to a track day on time, and ended up having to replace the oil pan when it was all said and done (which was ok, gave me an excuse to put Jan's sump in). Kind of defeats the purpose of that particular plug though...

 

Not a magnetic drain plug fan, more of a change my oil every 2,500 - 3,000 mile fan.
If you keep an eye on your oil level and change it you don't need a silly magnetic bolt.

 

Nope.

 

I'd helicoil it, then put a fumoto in...call it a day....

 

Damn, that sounds painful, you really hate Bruce don't you...

 

might as well get a magnetic one and use a sponsor! MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS

sort of puzzled though... what spun the bolt or the threads taped into the pan? If the latter not certain a bigger plug is the answer.

 

Wow. Is it the "softer" aluminum pan or you guys hitting the juice? Honestly I use a Fumoto quick drain plug on my r53 but have magnetic ones on my other cars - 98 saab w/ 256k, 04 highlander w/190k. Never had problems on those. At least not yet.

 

I change my oil a lot, have to, car is on the track. And I always torque to spec. Gratz' if you haven't had any issues, but MANY have. Consider yourself lucky. And be careful. Karma can have a habit of biting you in the hinders...

 

I'm having trouble understanding how & why a magnetical drail plug causes any more problems that the oem one does. Both are steel plugs in an aluminum pan. At least on our R53's.
The R56 uses a fine recycled French steel sump made from old 2CV's......

 

Helicoils do work, but you have to be careful removing and tightening the drain bolt. Also, the factory drain bolt is shorter than the threads through the pan, so in a pinch you can get a longer bolt to temporarily get you around until you fix it properly. We had one come in the shop with a wheel lug bolt in the oil drain hole a few weeks ago.:eek6:

 

The shell is thin, very thin, to accommodate the magnet. Mine fractured. The mechanic who I had temporary fix it for the track couldn't believe how thin it was, it basically a hollow screw with a magnet in the middle, and it also appeared the metal was discolored and weak where it fractured, basically said it was a horrible design, even if the metal had been stronger. If you saw a cross section of one of these, you might have second thoughts. There is VERY thin rim of metal around the magnet, essentially just enough to make the threads.

I had pictures of what happened to it on here, but they seem to have disappeared, at least the thread has. It's the plug itself that's the issue, not the part about putting it into the drain pan. If you continue to use it, I'd check it VERY carefully with each use, make sure there are no stress fractures between the threads, or any discoloration. Me, I'll never get near one again, it's not worth it. You've been warned.

 

This is what my drain plug looked like when I went to drain the oil on my car for the first time. I shook my head in dismay as I had to reach for the air chisel :mad2:

Who let Rick touch tools again:wink:

 

Thanks for the warning. I have a magnetical one plugged into my MINI's sump. Next oil change I'll be looking at it closely. I have spare oem plugs on the shelf. If I remember I'll take some pics & post back here.

 

Does anyone like him?