Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: Strut Brace/Sway Bar Installation

My left arm is currently calibrated correctly, but my right arm is always 12-32 oz light unless there is a fresh beer available.

 

I'm sure the strut bar helps some, how much is up for debate. Bang for the buck a RSB is the place to start. I have a 19mm & wish I'd gone with a 22mm.

 

:lol:

 

Two Forties...you'll have to do a proper alignment.

 

From what I have seen I would recommend an MN strut brace over the JCW. It is DIY-able. The car does not have to be lifted. Be careful tightening down the nuts. Too much torque will snap the studs on the strut.

Best bang for the buck IMHO is a rear swaybar. It being DIY-able depends on your skill level. Yes the car needs to be lifted for the install.

I buy all my MINI parts from Aaron at Outmotoring. Great guy to deal with...

NM Engineering mini cooper clubman upper stress bar

http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-cooper/nm_engineering_mini_cooper_clubman_swaybar.html

 

Strut bar does help, a lot of folks say it is cosmetic, I believe it helps if your are somewhat aggressive in the twisties. Simple to install, as noted.

I would not mess with the front sway bar, get a 3 hole adjustable 19mm rear bar for your MINI. Install is DIY, I would suggest a lift or at least 4 jack stands if you have them.

Run your bar in the middle until you figure out how much rotation you can control in aggressive corners or if you AutoX.

Enjoy... Don

 

The front strut tower brace is really an easy DIY, if you can't do that don't consider other work on your car. I suggest the new NM brace for the 2011, it has been changed slightly for the 2011.

 

I picked up a Strut tower brace this weekend from another owner.
Two questions:
1. I don't want to snap the stud. What is the appropriate torque for the nuts?

2. It looks as though the thickness of the bracket on the brace will cause the nut not to have full thread engagement. I was considering switching to a different nut that did not have the captive flange and just use a thinner steel washer. Anyone have a comment in this?

 

The NM strut bar comes with different bolts so you get proper engagement. Maybe you did not get those from the seller.

 

Correct I did not get any fasteners. My towers have threaded "studs" with nuts on top. Are the studs removable? I should have mentioned my car is an R56.

 

Its 25foot pounds on the R53 and you need the proper nuts if it is like the JCW SB.

 

:cornut: With only the front strut tower brace, I didn't notice that much difference. However, when I added the rear strut tower brace, things really tightened up. The purests would jump all over me for calling it that. "It's not any where near the rear strut tower. It's a rear body brace." Yeah okay, whatever.

Jason

 

Warning this contains a SWAG

Is the strut bar an NM?

As far as torque goes I did not use a a torque wrench for those. After years of wrenching one can feel it. If you feel you need to torque those then use a torque wrench thos studs will break easily. It is not much torque. My Guess is maybe 15# or so. Use that spec at your own peril.

 

OK.... Here ya go....
The OEM M8 collar nuts to the stock upper strut bearing studs..... According to Bentley.....34Nm or 25 ft-lb......

 

EXCELLENT !!! Thank you so much! I was guessing they were M8 size. The calibration sticker on my elbow fell off a while ago... ....so I like to use a torque wrench ....which is calibrated.

Paul

 

I use a torque wrench where needed. My elbow while calibrated 10 pounds light has served me well. over the years.... :beer