If your going to change those lines (which I would recommend) I would pull the exhaust manifold and turbo off as one assembly. Once you do that the heavens will part and angels will sing as its a lot easier. Changing the gasket without that or putting it in service mode will have you thinking about places further down and a wee bit hotter. Drain the coolant and oil the night before, make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. I recommend when you reassemble place a THIN coat of black RTV around the outside of the gasket. Make sure not to get any on the areas inside the seal. Do it right and that place further down will freeze over before it leaks again.
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You have an N14 engine. Check the PVC hose that goes from the passenger side of the valve cover down to where it goes into the Intake manifold. Make sure it is connected well and not leaking. I have had my R58 JCW have this hose come off and through the same code. In my case I don't thank I had it connected well, on a shift at redline it blow off. If you or someone els have put a block in that line to stop intake valve coking GET IT OUT! This cause high crank case pressure and will cause all sorts of oil leaks. Ask how I know.
Have you done any mods to the car?-
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Update!
Took it over to Luis at Precision (thank you @Crashton), and sure enough it's a leaky oil filter housing.... and the oil filter valve on the "new" valve cover had a defect and wasn't "seating" correctly.. Luis said I could probably change out the housing myself, but it can be a bit challenging. I already have to put on a new vacuum pump, so fair to say I might as well continue and give the housing a shot?
I understand from a few forums and videos that you don't need to remove the turbo, just everything around it. And also wondering if I can get away with the just changing the gaskets, versus spending the $200-300 on a housing unit..
Anyone on here do it themselves, thoughts?
All in all I would be looking at $700+ for mechanic, or say $300 and a few busted knuckles...
Thanks-
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Thanks to all for your recommendations!! So I just came in from spending most of the day trying to figure this thing out.....errr!
So on the crankcase thought, I did pull off the inner wheel well and it didn't look like anything more than a Mini with 74k miles. I also rechecked torque specs for manifold, oil pan, vacuum pump, and just about everything else. I then did a hose down with brake cleaner and cleaned up all the areas possible to try and see "fresh" oil and where it was coming from (including all around the crank case seal).
Let the car run and get good and hot and crawled back underneath, low and behold no oil around the crankcase seal, or on the passenger side.... maybe the tightening helped something? However, on the drivers side near the oil pan and above the turbo pipe I found a steady leak (pictures attached) that is not coming from the pan itself. It's below the oil filter housing and vacuum pump (which don't seem to be leaking). It runs down from somewhere then around the hole (indention), and then down to the seem as you can see from the pics. I just can't pinpoint from where... (Note: I look at the top end and didn't see any leaks anywhere)
Still getting the 1497 code, really don't know what this can be.... Possible defective valve cover? The car idles good, but every 20-30 secs the idle stutters a little then recovers. When you hold at a steady 4k rpm it sounds good with no hesitation...
Really hate to take it in because I know it's probably something I could fix if I could just pinpoint both issues....Attached Files:
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