1st Gen R52 Cooper Convertible Most liked posts in thread: Stupid jack points!

OEM ones run about 5 bucks a pop. So yeah, TSW ones are a hella lot more expensive. However, they are so worth it. Plus they even have a model to use for those of us with the OEM Aero Kit side skirts.

 

We use alot of the TSW jack points and they work well, and don't come out. But you are right the cost is a bit. If you plan on jacking up your car more offten they may be worth the cost, but otherwise stock one should work too. I've got some good used ones if you need.

 

A Must for GPs

I just installed the TSW jack points and M14 to M12 studs, last saturday, sheesus I should have done this before. A must for all GP's, you don't need to lug around that big bag of orange blocks, no need to hold those orange blocks under your car while you slide jack in, and any jack will fit under TSW jack points even if you have 17 or even 15 inch wheels without having to get a pair of 2x4 blocks to drive over. BTW the studs have also contributed to more simplicity in changing my wheels from oem 18s, 17s and 15s, and you don't have to balance the GP wheel with my toe while screwing in bolts, simply slide on wheel and tighten nuts.

 

pictures would be awesome....

 

Does this pertain to prior 2009 only? I have never had a single problem with my OEM ones, so this thread is news to me. Should I be concerned? :confused5:

Jim

 

They're the same design on the second gen and would be susceptible to the same issues.

 

My oem ones were fine, but I got the TSW ones as I jack the car every time it's washed to remove the wheels. Also they are slightly shorter so the jack fits nice as others have stated.

 

Since it's a related topic...

Obviously there are designated jack points to use; are there also specific points one should put their jackstands at underneath?

 

Jack points

I did the same thing but mine did hit the bottom of the door. Scrapes all the way down to metal. What is

 

I made these......2 peices of 2" thick walled square tubing with a pocket on each end that fits over the jack points, kinda a cross between the 2X4 method and using the jack points. Once it's up the jack stands can go anywhere under the tube, but I generally put them under the jackpoints. These don't bend and crunch like a wooden 2X4 does!

Then you go to the other side and do the same thing. Works a treat, but I only use them when I want the whole car up in the air, like to do brakes. For tire roatation I just use the floor jack under the jack point.

BTW, if the plastic block is gone, there's no reason you can't lift the car at the same point, that's where it's meant to be lifted and there's still the square box that the block fits into to lift on.......I did that on my first MINI as all the blocks were gone and I didn't even know it was supposed to have them.

 

Interesting. For those of us who can't fashion something like this out of metal, would a 4x4 block of wood work equally well?

 

You mean under the jack point or down the side in place of a 2X?

The only issue I can see is the extra thickness might make it difficult to get a floor jack under the side unless you have one of those low profile jacks....

 

TSW jack points are the best. I also use the 30 inch 2x4 method to lift each side and just slide my jack stands under for any service I need to do.

 

We now have the new design with a notch to fit jack stands better.
TSW Short Jack Points - Way Motor Works