2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Suspension decision.

Camber Plates- Are only used on the Front and installed on the top of the Strut tower. There are fixed plates(cheaper but limited adjustment) and adjustable(more expensive and wider adjustment range). They allow for custom Camber and Toe settings not possible with the factory set up. They are not at all needed if factory settings can be achieved after lowering the car(lowering 1in or less). However, racing types often have special camber and toe needs. The more that the car is lowered, the more likely one is to need camber plates to achieve correct front end geometry or add more aggressive camber and toe settings.
Adjustable Rear Control Arms- Factory rear control arms( fixed and therefore very limited adjustment capability),2 to a side, upper and lower(usually only upper adjustibles are installed to add more aggressive positive camber settings), maintain proper rear suspension geometry(camber and toe[toe adjustment,> factory, need upper and lower adjustable rear control arms). Again, if one's lowering springs aren't too aggressive(1in or less) then proper realignment can be done without adding adjustible control arms.
Where all of this comes into play is when owners want to lower their car and readjust camber and toe to accomodate a more aggressive driving style(racing etc). The Mini with the Sport Suspension, Light Wheels, and Non Run Flat Tires is already capable of being driven better than the great majority of us can drive her. People with lots of money and professionally racing, do it all. People like me on a limited budget and mainly spirited street, none of it is needed. The car will already drive better than we can drive it. Mods are fun but in most cases not needed.

Jason

 

Lots of very good advice in this thread by people that know what they are talking about.


For once I agree with everyone and have nothing to add. :eek6::lol:

Let the modding begin.:devil:

 

:cornut: Coming from you Dave, Thanks.:biggrin5:

Jason

 

Just drive the car up here after you finish the work, or have my friend do the job for you. You're welcome to hang out and stay with us if need be. If you do the work yourself, the distance driven between San Diego and Fresno won't affect your car before an alignment. PM me and I'll give you David's contact info...

 

Drive enough & they will clearance themselves. Wore holes through mine. Added a bit of undercoat in there too.

 

miniwop, I have the same setup. The ride is much better, in curves very flat. I set the bar in the middle and have not changed it. I tracked at Mini Thunder last year and the setup did very well, made runs to AMVIV and MINI in the Mountains from Oregon and it travels all day very well. For me the stance is just right.

Kent

 

I have the same setup on my R53 and can say the same.

 

:cornut: This is a very popular set up but don't forget the most important thing to do: get a front end realignment after the 'lowering.'

Jason

 

Add camber plates & adjustable rear arms if you want to add good tire wear to the mix.

 

Miniwop... You did your homework well.......

 

The ride on my car improved. I run the OEM sport struts/shocks with these springs... Largely because I didn't want to compromise the ride on top of the added firmness of the springs. I nearly went for the Koni FSDs, and in some respects, I wish I had. However, I had uncertainty as to whether or not the ride height would be affected and as to negatively impacting the guarantee from Koni. I wanted the car lower without too much of a ride comfort compromise. I believe I did well in my decision, for my purposes...

You can get by with the OEM rear control arms too if you so choose. I did so for over a year. I later opted to replace the lower arms with a pair from Megan. Very nice product and provides for added camber adjustment to your desired liking.

 

Spend the money on a good alignment when done with your mods. When you lower a MINI you add negative camber. Negative camber on the front will cause your MINI to toe-in. That means it will handle like a pig without an alignment to straighten things out. There is a bit of adjustment available in the rear to get rid of some of that added camber. The camber added to the front is livable, but the toe-in is not.

 

Yep spend on a good one. Not all alignment shops do a good job. Ask around locally for the best place. You want a shop that will do custom alignments, some will only go by what their book tells them. On your lowered car it won't work well. Good luck.

 

What is your location?

 

If you're in Central California, I know the best there is for your allignment.