I'm thinking of replacing the OEM sway bar end links with aftermarket adjustable. Once installed, what determines the adjustment length? How do I know what length to make them? What effect does the length have on handling, if any?
There's a lot that one can do... while starting parallel is a good place, the real goal of the endlinks is to take out pre-load when you corner balance. Going to non-parallel angles can tune the effective bar strenth as well. You've got to watch range of motion so that you don't have any issues with interference. But to tell you the truth, this part isn't needed until you go to coil-overs and want to corner balance your car. Keep them on the "future maybe" list, but you don't need to spend the money until you go "full race" with the rest of the suspension bits. Matt
The biggest idea behind adjustable end links should be to take preload off the swaybars. We have our own endlinks. Had too many failures/noises from heim joint style endlinks. WMW Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks - Way Motor Works
Just to add my $0.02 to several good points already, there's no need to upgrade the endlinks unless you're changing the ride height differently for each side with coilivers. That's what corner balancing does, adjusts the ride height independently on each corner to achieve even side to side weight distribution (and front to back for other cars, but that's a lost cause in a mini). And even then you only need one endlink per side to get them even again. Another school of thought says that the endlinks are the weak point in the suspension if you have a big sway bar. Yes the oem joints are puny and weak, but they're not carrying a lot of force. Save your money for something else till you break an endlink.
Good stuff, been running these for more than a couple years now with zero problems and yes there was preload from the shorter springs present before installing them. Think they are the same as Powergrid.
Here's my question... Even without coilovers... When I put a fat dude in the driver's seat, the swaybars get preloaded - and I can adjust the end links to eliminate the preloaded with my butt in the seat... Does this have a real handling benefit?
Yes in the way of having your suspension working the way it should, no in the way camber plates or a larger sway bar do. I do weight the drivers seat as I do during alignment when setting them. One thing they do when lowering is not only remove the preload but give you the ability to return the swaybars back to their correct operating angle/orientation.... 2 cents
That's how mine are adjusted - level swaybar, no preload with driver's seat weighted. I'm just wondering how much the reduction/elimination of preload is actually making... I don't know that I felt any difference...
And there you have it! These are great for track rats... For street drivers? Maybe if you need to replace a stocker. Matt
I felt/feel the difference on track or extreme driving in the twisties (which I would never do) but agree with Matt that most folks just driving normally would never know the difference. My car ask for them though on a track day...lol
Paul,yea, I doubt anyone will really feel the difference. The fact is that when you turn the steering wheel just an inch one way or the other from dead center you are preloading the front bar a good amount. The way the Mini front bar is set up is one reason our Minis handle so well in the turns.
Yup - was one of the last things I did - after springs, struts, swaybar, lower control arms, brakes, braces, camber plates, etc... I'm low enough in back that I needed (wanted) them to get my swaybar horizontal...
The stock rod diameter of the OEM sway bar end links just don't seem hefty enough in relation to the sway bar diameter. Seem like there would be problems when the rod is put under compression.
They do OK for most driving but I have heard of the OEM endlinks breaking under track conditions, but understand that a broken sway bar endlink usually is not one of those failures that put you into the wall.....
There just aren't a lot of failures out there.... yeah it looks spindly, but that also means it's light, and it's unsprung weight. With a good design, there should be little or no bending torque on the device. It's awful hard to compress the shaft of metal.... Matt