I would have suggested you try the NM engineering end links, not much difference in price and seem to be much better than stock and being partially aluminum, will probably be lighter than the Powergrid. They make good stuff.
I don't know the length of a "slightly" dropped MINI, but if you follow the instructions and keep the bar arms level, you'll be good.
http://www.nm-eng.com/media/attachments/203_328856_ins.pdf
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Hi Mike,
The OEM ones are 9.25" measured from the centre of the bolts (mine are sitting in the basement, so it was easy to measure).
I believe you'll need to shorten them about the same amount as the car is lowered, so the swaybar is parallel to the ground when the car is sitting level on all 4 wheels.
didn't see metalman's post. What are we all doing up so early on a Sunday?-
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My understanding is that the goal is for the sway bar ends to be level with the ground.
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There's a lot that one can do...
while starting parallel is a good place, the real goal of the endlinks is to take out pre-load when you corner balance. Going to non-parallel angles can tune the effective bar strenth as well. You've got to watch range of motion so that you don't have any issues with interference. But to tell you the truth, this part isn't needed until you go to coil-overs and want to corner balance your car.
Keep them on the "future maybe" list, but you don't need to spend the money until you go "full race" with the rest of the suspension bits.
Matt -
Way Motor Works New Member
The biggest idea behind adjustable end links should be to take preload off the swaybars.
We have our own endlinks. Had too many failures/noises from heim joint style endlinks.
WMW Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks - Way Motor Works -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Just to add my $0.02 to several good points already, there's no need to upgrade the endlinks unless you're changing the ride height differently for each side with coilivers. That's what corner balancing does, adjusts the ride height independently on each corner to achieve even side to side weight distribution (and front to back for other cars, but that's a lost cause in a mini). And even then you only need one endlink per side to get them even again.
Another school of thought says that the endlinks are the weak point in the suspension if you have a big sway bar. Yes the oem joints are puny and weak, but they're not carrying a lot of force. Save your money for something else till you break an endlink. -
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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Here's my question... Even without coilovers... When I put a fat dude in the driver's seat, the swaybars get preloaded - and I can adjust the end links to eliminate the preloaded with my butt in the seat... Does this have a real handling benefit?
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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That's how mine are adjusted - level swaybar, no preload with driver's seat weighted. I'm just wondering how much the reduction/elimination of preload is actually making... I don't know that I felt any difference...
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And there you have it!
These are great for track rats... For street drivers? Maybe if you need to replace a stocker.
Matt -
I felt/feel the difference on track or extreme driving in the twisties (which I would never do) but agree with Matt that most folks just driving normally would never know the difference. My car ask for them though on a track day...lol
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leicaguy New Member
OK, sounds like the money can be put to better use. Thanks for the input.
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They are good parts...
but just should be used when appropriate to the mod path.
Matt -
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Exactly.
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Yup - was one of the last things I did - after springs, struts, swaybar, lower control arms, brakes, braces, camber plates, etc... I'm low enough in back that I needed (wanted) them to get my swaybar horizontal...
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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The stock rod diameter of the OEM sway bar end links just don't seem hefty enough in relation to the sway bar diameter. Seem like there would be problems when the rod is put under compression.
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They do OK for most driving but I have heard of the OEM endlinks breaking under track conditions, but understand that a broken sway bar endlink usually is not one of those failures that put you into the wall.....
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