2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Symptoms of worn control arm bushings?

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by TygerRRT, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. TygerRRT

    TygerRRT New Member

    Sep 1, 2010
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    Thanks, that was a lot of great information. The MINI dealer told me that my bushings were broken, so I assume that accounts for the lousy handing more than the alignment problem. How hard are they to replace? Can anyone do it or does it require special tools?
     
  2. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

    Mar 30, 2009
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    Here is a How To, by Keith from Werkin MINI Once you look that over you can decide if it something you want to tackle or have a shop perform.
     
  3. DixonL2

    DixonL2 New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    There's a much faster/less difficult way to remove/replace the LCAB's without dropping the subframe. You basically heat the bracket and drive 'em out with a pneumatic hammer, then press them in with a threaded rod/washers. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7kQn82QB7U]MINI Cooper service on control arm bushing lca easy how to wishbone powerflex power flex - YouTube[/ame]

    It's also possible to sawzall 'em out if you dont want to torch 'em, but that's difficult. Either way, you're going to want a pneumatic hammer and a lift.

    You don't generally need to realign after installation, but an alignment check is a good idea - especially since many Minis were shipped with poor rear alignment (adjust with the upper body mounts).

    WARNINGS:
    - Be sure if you have HID lights to remove (and be VERY careful with) the auto-leveling arm on the LCA. Tape it up out of the way, or remove it entirely and store it in a padded box somewhere.
    - It's not as easy as they show to remove the LCA from the original bushing (can take some serious pulling) or to remove the ball joint (can take a BF prybar).
    - The OE bushings are fluid filled and can leak oil, which can catch fire. As with ANY operation involving heat, have a fire extinguisher and wet rags handy. Do nt ask how I know this.
    - The LCA on the Passenger side runs alongside the vapor recovery system for your GAS TANK. Cover this with a wet rag and be VERY careful or you'll melt a hole in the vapor recovery line (or worse). This can be fixed with some self-vulcanizing rubber tape. Do not ask how I know this, either, and no, it wasn't my car.
    - Keeping the bushing aligned during the "threaded rod" install can be really tricky (you'll see them using a breaker bar in the vid). Occasionally, a well-placed hand-sledge hit can "pop" it in. It's a tight fit but can be done.

    I take ZERO liability for anyone's actions if you try this procedure. I can tell you it works, but watching a YouTube video and actually DOING it are different things, the guys on the vid have done dozens of these.

    I can also recommend Steve at Schade Auto in Irwin PA to do this job, but don't be calling them asking for advice over the phone, they're a great auto shop, but not Ann Friggin' Landers. Just bring your car and have it done.
     
  4. Way Motor Works

    Way Motor Works New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    Dropping the subframe is easier than you think, you can just lower it in the back and unbolt them. This is how we do it in our shop.

    DO NOT DO IT LIKE THAT YOUTUBE VIDEO. With the fuel lines on the passenger side it would be very easy to set your car on fire. Also you will damage the inner ball joints when you take the control arms off the car.

    Also when you do it use the Powerflex bushings, they last forever.
     
  5. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

    May 7, 2009
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    I have to admit....that video scared me :eek6: :lol: Seeing MINIS treated with air hammers and wrenches is taboo at Steve's shop. Plus, more than likely if the LCA bushings are shot, other stuff under there is too? Might as well drop it and check :Thumbsup:
     

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