Thanks for the background on the TSW BBK Mike. So, where are the brake ducts? With this kit do you recommend not to have ducts? just not needed?
Isn't more cooling always better?
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The duct is hidden in the last picture just by chance. Ducts can only help the brake cooling. I don't think these brakes need ducts, but why take them off, you know?
Some may point out that the ducts could funnel road rocks to your brakes, and this is true. If that is a worry, then some coarse expanded metal will screen out the big stuff. -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Very cool post, Doc.
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Really nice write up Mike. I now what it's like to have a big project or two.
When i was looking for new brakes your kit was one of three on my list. I finally ended up with a StopTeck BBK mostly because I got them used real cheap. If I tracked or auto X my car at all you would have been the kit for me.
Congrats on making one hell of kit.
Longboard -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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If it came in red I'd have it already...
Darn Texas guys and their gunmetal fetish. -
Mine is going on as soon as it gets here (as well as KW V2's and R-comps; figure a brake upgrade is in order too); can't wait to give it a go--I have the Wilwood 11.75/0.81, and I'm just plain tired of going through rotors (3 sets last summer) and pads.
I don't have air ducts on yet--gonna try them without, might put in the Way ducts as a project this winter depending on how things go. I don't think the Way ducts are quite as good as what Mike has on his car--Mike is shooting air directly into the hub, but with the BDM I'm thinking it would be enough if I need a little more. But maybe the BDM will be just fine without.
And props to Mike for all the help w/r to suggestions for setting my car up! -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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You know, I had never recall hearing anyone report on rotor and pad life with this setup before this thread. It must run radically cooler than the OEM setup to have that kind of rotor and pad life.... which is a good thing. Hmmmmmmm..... given how much I roast my brakes and wheels on the Dragon and at the track, I'm seriously thinking this may be my next big mod...
And since they run so cool, my caliper paint will last a long time when I paint them red. -
Bimmer Lite New Member
Loved reading about this; thanks for posting!
I've been through the wilwood rotor game and installed the Way ducts this off season. First track day was Friday at Lime Rock and the rotors and pads are still fine. I made a concerted effort to have a real cool-down lap, and I drove around the paddock for 5 minutes before parking. Once I parked, I moved the car a couple of times to get the pad on a different part of the rotor.
All that said, I don't kill brakes like Dr. Mike does according to the pics above - I'm not fast enough!
So which 15 inch rims do these brakes fit under?
- Marc -
They won't fit the Kosei's I had before; template doesn't quite clear. Which is a shame because I really, really liked the Kosei's, they are so light. They are shaped oddly on the inside though--kind of like a funnel, which I really never noticed before I put the template to them. -
Thanks -
We did a heat paint test at Eagles Canyon - the local brake killer track - and ducts made no difference. Of course heat paint is accurate to within several hundred degrees F. Both BDM rotors got as hot as the rear rotors. I think it was 1200 or 1300 F, but don't hold me to that. It was right in the middle of the range for the Raybestos pads.
Alan -
I know that 1.2s will not fit over the BDM on an R56.
Alan -
Alan, keep in mind that you are probably not as hard on the brakes as I am. You carry more corner speed and I get down the straights faster meaning to tiptoe around the corner like I do more speed needs to be scrubbed off. So maybe the ducts did help.
I still have this Genesis Technology kit and will probably never ever use it all. I'd be willing to share for the cost of shipping. We can then all share our brake temps. Send me a note if you want to use it. -
It's supposed to on a R53 with +35 offset...If it doesn't, I'm hosed.
**Update: Just because you got me all hot and bothered, I put a template up on the TD 1.2's and other than having to be careful with the wheel weights it looks like it should clear just fine. -
do the outlaw calipers have dust booted pistons? I love the idea of the big fat rotor but doesn't non booted pistons not work well with the winters up here in the northeast?
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paulsminis New Member
Dr. Mike, your explanation of pad disintegration at the track was very interesting to me. I had a similar fate with the same brake kit at Gingerman. Unfortunately, the car did not survive, but both my instructor and I walked away basically unhurt. Since I never got possession of the wreck, I was not able to do a post-mortem, but I did examine the brakes and both outer pads were missing their lining.....so now I am fairly sure I know exactly what happened.
I now use a similar kit with Outlaw calipers and 1.22 inch disks and the stopping power is awesome.
Paul -
Alan, you were right. The 1.2's don't clear, as I just found out. I had the 1.0's, not the 1.2's on the car, ordered 1.2's for the track, and they don't clear.
Guess I'll run my 1.0's with all-seasons monday and slip and slide (Looks like it's going to thunderstorm so maybe it won't be all bad), and see if I can get some Pro Race 1.0's. Although now that I remember, the ones that I bought were like the last set I could track down...
Anyone know where I might be able to find a set of 15x7 TD's Pro Race 1.0's? Looks like its a special order from england, have to see if there are any old sets around at some of the vendors I guess.
If not, looks like I'll be going to a sixteen inch rim, as there don't appear to be any other 15's that fit....Damn...May have a very nice brand new set of TD 1.2's with Nitto 01's never used going for sale soon. Double damn.... -
Nice read!
It is nice to know what went into the design of a product--thanks for sharing the story.
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