Pic's from M/T
R56S valves at 27k
R56S valves at 58k (one after cleaning)
Comments;
The 27k car had slight hesitation with half throttle acceleration, while the 58k had a massive flat spot and major hesitation with all throttle positions.
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Crashton Club Coordinator
From what I understand the main carbon build up seems to be on the back of the intake valves. Running Techron through will certainly help the combustion chamber & piston top stay clean, but I can't see how it would be able to clean the back of the intake valves. Being direct injection the fuel/Techron does not go past the intake valve.
Looks like the MINI version of the Italian tune up is to drive it until completely warm.
Rather disturbing that MINI does not recognize this as their problem.-
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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So it seems it's a progressive thing (obviously). The wet becomes completely chemically un-reactive with the operating temperature at the point where the valves are located. The oil laden fumes are constantly bathing the valves with the "wet" solution (PCV system). The Seafoam doesn't touch the completely chemically un-reactive carbon buildup (or very little). So the Seafoam only addresses the wet and only at the time of application. As soon as the engine is started after a Seafoam treatment, the process starts immediately again and continues until the next treatment, but only for the wet contition. If the Seafoam isn't constantly being applied, the carbon buildup wins. The addition of the oil catch can have the ability to stop the carbon buildup if it's 100% effective (which they aren't). So the best we can hope for is a slowing down of the carbon problem with a OCC.
Or the physical removal of the un-reactive carbon buildup with the current BMW/MINI "walnut" method (expensive). And this method is also just temporary but addresses the chunky carbon buildup completely at the time of treatment.
OR become a traveling salesman that does a lot of interstate highway traveling versus the short run stop and go pattern that speeds up the buildup.
For the Seafoam to really work it would need to be constantly applied to remove the "wet" before it becomes chemically un-reactive..... I'm not convinced the Seafoam really offers much. The only argument there is would be if you didn't do a treatment the wet it would remove would eventually become the hard carbon.
Seems like the best thing to do would be to install the most effective OCC there is ???? and do the walnut method when required.
Your mileage may vary.-
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
Water-injection and intake cleaning solutions, frankly, scare me because I'm not experienced with them and there is serious risk of hydro-locking the motor if done improperly.
As far as the re-flash it does push up the idle so that may help heat the engine faster. Beyond that if the intake valves aren't open as long as long that may prevent more of the carbon build-up. I have no clue if it really does or doesn't work.-
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Check this article out. It's a fantastic breakdown of DI and how the carbon buildup affects cars. Sounds like early DI engines are particularly sensitive, before they figured out how to re-route PCV valves and EGS lines and alter the combustion. Case study is an RS4 that loses 1 hp every 500 miles.
Direct Injection Fouls Some Early Adopters - AutoObserver-
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
So, Saturday I had my intake carbon cleaned by MINI of Monrovia. I asked the tech to take a few pics. He did and e-mailed the attached pics to me. He wrote in the e-mail:
"Cyl1 was the worst at level 4 carbon build-up. Cyl4 was a 3. Cyl2 & Cyl3 were both 2s. I only took a picture of Cyl2 since they were the same. This is on a scale of 1-9. 1 is clean/new car. 9 is a non-functioning engine."
I spoke with my SA and the tech when I went in to pick-up my car. He was actually working on a 2009 MCS with 24k miles. It had Level 8 build-up on the 1 & 4 cylinders and level 5 on the 2 & 3. Apparently the engine was throwing misfire codes and obviously running like crap.
It does look like how the vehice is driven and cycled that will effect how quickly the carbon builds-up on the valves. Short-trips where the engine doesn't get to full temp and run at temp for a while (typical short commute to work) expedites the effects.
There is no real way to stop it. It can be deterred for longer periods of time with correctly placed catch cans and driving habits that run the engine to temp and keep it there. Less substantiated is hard driving (Autox & track days) seems to help as well but unfortunately I don't have enough reference points to make an anecdotal observation.
For reference here is a summary of the condition of my car and the driving habits at the time of cleaning:
-2010 MCS Manual
-58,653 miles
-ECU Reflached by MINI of Monrovia with a tune that was intended to reduce carbon build-up on manual MCS with N14 engines @ 31k miles
-Daily commute 30 miles one-way (60 miles a day; 5-days a week) with approximately 30 minutes of driving at 65-80mph
-Rev-match down-shifts
-8 full track days (High revs for 20-25 minute sessions; 5 sessions/day)
-26 Auto crosses (high revs for short 30-60 second bursts while at op-temps)
-Oil changes performed on "half-cycle" intervals (ususally around 7-8k miles)
-All other maintenance performed per MINI USA recommendations
-Chevron 91 octane fuel used at all times.
If you take a look at your intake at any time please post-up pics and list what the condition of your car is as I have above. Collecting pics and reference points would helpful to everyone.Attached Files:
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
I haven't heard of non-DI engines having this sort of rapid build-up. Do you have any links to articles or technical info? That would be great to add to this thread.
I'm friends with a guy who is master tech at Audi and they have had the same DI carbon build-up issues. He did tell me that it wasn't an issue when they were still port injected.
There are some DI engines from Toyota and Audi/VW (TFSI Engines) that have a secondary injector(s) behind the valves. I haven't heard/seen any info that shows this is more or less effective.-
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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I haven't had time to build the rest of the system. Need to make a pressure pot and Harbor Freight sells the walnut chips in two different grits.-
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
The problem is that the carbon build-up on the valves that has caked-on is almost completely chemically un-reactive and it's small particulate nature means that it "grabs on" hard to surfaces.
In a past life I worked for a firearms manufacturer and repair company. I was at the bottom of the chain so I spent 90% of my time cleaning repair jobs. AR-15/M-16s almost always had a similar carbon build-up on the face of the gas-piston just before the rings. The only way we could get it completely off, without using the sand blaster (which is like using an A-Bomb to kill a fly), was to use dental scraping tools and some serious elbow grease.-
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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OK..OK I read most of this... BUT.. IF you dont go to the chemical... are the Head being removed and then dis assembled and the carbon cleaned?? Is this what a lot are getting done??
Just aSKING.................
Thumper-
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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If chemical.... Do you mean the Seafoam or similar method???? That doesn't seem to touch the "baked on" hard carbon buildup on the valves. If it's under warranty and the dealer has the "walnut" kit, the lower cost, quicker method is the walnut blast with the head left on the engine. Seems to be a two hour or so job to perform. The pulling of the head requires more labor which equates to more expense. Especially if a replacement head gasket, head bolts antifreeze etc, etc, etc, gets replaced.
The pulling of the head would allow all the carbon to be removed. The walnut method probably leaves a very small amount around the edge of the valves and maybe directly behind the valve stem, since the wand and the walnut particle size limits 100% removal. Boils down to a cost trade off.
What is not totally clear..... BMW/MINI has progressively improved the design of the PCV system. Are any of these improvements having any noticeable reduction in carbon buildup?
For the average R56S owner.... I suspect the "walnut" method, with leaving the head intact, will suffice.....-
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