2nd Gen R56 Cooper S The 'Carbon' Problem...

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Redbeard, Jan 31, 2011.

  1. Redbeard

    Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!
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    Perfect summation. :Thumbsup: Emphasis on the last line.

    I will point out that given my driving habits and mileage that I could realistically go with no modifications (OCC/PCV Change) for another 60k miles before needing the service again. Admittedly expensive but for a once in 60k miles (Yes, given my long highway/spirited DD/Trackday/Autox habits that helps) I'm happy to spend the $400 for the service.
     
  2. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    When installing the oil catch can and plugs, or the BSH dual boost port, you are not blocking off the PCV system entirely. The crankcase gases are still venting through PCV valve, into the oil catch can and to the turbocharger inlet. Because the PCV hose that works with the intake is under vacuum is blocked, it is important that an oil catch can is installed in the other PCV line to keep the condensable vapors out of the turbocharger and intake system.

    Dave



     
  3. GreyLens

    GreyLens New Member
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    As usual I'm behind on this issue. Thanks for the post. I have similar driving habits to Redbeard but with less highway time and I haven't looked in to this issue yet. Will do so soon. I'm at about 42,000 miles.

    I've been planning on installing an OCC soon. I'm a big NM Engineering fan and really like the looks of their new OCC. Just wondering if you guys have any thoughts/info on it compared to the BSH unit. BSH has been out there longer, I know. I'll check around for other posts on these two.

    Also, has anyone checked with COBB and/or ALTA regarding their tunes and the carbon issue? I'll check for that as well and will contact the BMW/MINI guy at COBB you runs with our autox clubs here.

    Thanks for the work, gents.
     
  4. SMOG

    SMOG ZOOOOOMMMM
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    This Thread just caught my eye, Wow, you guys are right on track! The Walnut Shell Blaster is the best way to go if/when you need to clean the the valves. Walnut shells have been used for a long time in cleaning of used firearms brass cartridge casings and it does a spectacular job.

    I have 2 MINI's, one an '09MC non-"S" which probably won't need serious cleaning for some time but he '011 "S"(N-18 the refresh engine) is another story. I only have 7,700 miles on it now with about 50% being freeway driving and WOT conditions. I took off the InterCooler yesterday and there was ZERO oil in the tubes!! No Catch Can and it was perfectly clean. Maybe when it gets worn and blowby creeps into the picture it will be a different story.
     
  5. COOP310

    COOP310 New Member

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    Did a Seafoam treatment yesterday at 66,666 miles. It helped quite a bit!
     
  6. Redbeard

    Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!
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    Do you have before and after pics of the intake valves?

    The PCV routing and intake set-up on the N18 is different enough that it should solve the issue being had with the N14 engines. Keep an eye on it.
     
  7. SMOG

    SMOG ZOOOOOMMMM
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    #107 SMOG, Apr 5, 2012
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2012
    I will, I don't need all that gum in the valves if I can avoid it!
     
  8. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    A MINI showing 66,666 miles with thick smoke pouring out the back end makes me wonder who is driving it and how the engine is powered! :devil:
     
  9. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Here is a short video on using the walnut shell method to remove the carbon buildup and the BMW vacuum tool to suck out the used shells.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-HlWELr4Zk&hd=1]Clearing Carbon Buildup in an R56 MINI Cooper - YouTube[/ame]
     
  10. SMOG

    SMOG ZOOOOOMMMM
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    Metalman:

    I assume that the valves for each port are at Top Dead Center for the piston. Is there an easy way to get each respective piston to TDC?

    Stephen
     
  11. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Yeah, all the valves need to be closed on the cylinder that's being serviced. You don't want to fill up the cylinder with walnut shells.

    You can remove the fender well liner on the passenger side and crank the engine by hand using a wrench, after you pull the spark plugs (and of course disconnect the battery).
     
  12. SMOG

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    Thanks! The wheel well liner removal was what I was not sure about.

    Nifty little tool that carbon blaster!
     
  13. Rixter

    Rixter Well-Known Member

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    Does the blaster get positioned along the back on top of each cyliner? It would have been great to see a before/after compression test result.

    Have you had this done for your Chuck?
     
  14. Rixter

    Rixter Well-Known Member

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    I'm 3.5 years into my warranty. Performance seems to be off a bit, I'm hoping to get some sort of test done to see if I need this done while its under warrenty. What kind of test would be most indicative of carbon buildup, besides the butt dyno :rolleyes:
     
  15. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    In the video, the hose attachment with the aluminum piece that's shaped like a banana is just the pickup that removes the walnut shells that knock the carbon buildup off the intake valves. The small curved tool passes through the pickup and delivers the shells to the valves (aka sandblasting, but much gentler). He's working the tool around in an attempt to get all the angle he can to knock the carbon off all the sides and back of the valve stem.

    You can still have good compression even with carbon buildup on the valves. The carbon buildup impedes flow acting like a restrictor to the air entering the cylinder.

    No, I haven't had this done yet as my current mileage is only 12k.
     
  16. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Generally a sense that there is a reduction in performance. In really bad cases a cel may get thrown. It kind of depends how cooperative your dealer is. Just rushing in complaining about lack of power may not convince them. It needs to be obvious. They do need to pull the intake track and use a borescope to inspect the valve stems for the carbon buildup. They will always find some carbon buildup. But the excessive buildup is what restricts the flow.
     
  17. Crashton

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    I'm thinking if that carbon gets bad enough it could cause the valves to not seat correctly leading to burned valves. Although with these cars having the diagnostics they do I'm sure all kinds of bells & whistles would be sounding. In the old days we drove them till they dropped. Cars have gotten so much better over the years.
     
  18. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Yep, it's all a matter of degree. It's a progressive change. Goes from good to bad. Those with a R56S are all somewhere on this timeline. That is, until the timeline is reset with some kind of maintenance. BMW / MINI did make an upgrade to the valve cover that has a different PCV maze to improve oil vapor containment at the 11-2008 through 3-2010 S model N14 engine (11127572854 OLD P/N.....11127585907 NEW P/N), until the introduction of the N18 engine. The N18 engine further changes the PCV routing with only one PCV hose leading to the turbo cold side. The fJCW soldiers on with the dual hose valve cover.....
     
  19. SMOG

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    After 7300 miles on the N18 engine I pulled the intercooler to put a larger one on. No residue of oil in it or the hot and cold side tubes going to it, clean as a whistle!
     
  20. Crashton

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    I'm very happy you guys & MINI are figuring this stuff out. By the time I get an R56 this should all be well documented & no big deal.
     

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