Ok, so I guess this thing is the R56 version of H1N1 ... Literally a few days after reading a post on the "cold start rattle" I went out to start Ollie, who had been sitting for 3 days, and there was a distinct rattle coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. It wasn't nearly as bad as the videos I've seen posted on the matter ... more of a "something's loose in the engine compartment and is vibrating" noise. I backed out of the garage and popped the bonnet, but by the time I got out and walked around to open it, the sound was gone. Because the sound went away after a few seconds, I really didn't think much of it. However, b/c of the post I read , I did wonder if it might be a problem. Specifically, there's an article from motoring file that stated: "Usually this rattle occurs during the first start of the day when the engine itself is “cold” and oil has drained into the sump. Appearing to originate along the left side of the head near the cam chain, the rattle is out of synch with the normal cadence of the engine and has a metal on metal tapping quality to it. It seems to decrease with higher RPMs and as the engine warms up to operating temperatures. For most the noise starts off as an infrequent occurrence and only a minor annoyance and many don’t feel the need to bring it to their dealer’s attention." So, fast forward our local club's DIY day on Saturday. I mentioned this problem to one of the MINI techs, and he suggested that I go talk to my SA, to see if one of the techs could "officially" check it out. As it was explained to me by the SA and Tech (someone feel free to jump in here if I'm wrong), the cam tensioner is hydraulic, and by leaving the car for extended periods, the tension that the chain puts on the tensioner slowly pushes the fluid out of the tensioner. Then, when you go to start the car (i.e - "cold start") there's no fluid in the tensioner and no tension on the cam chain. Thet's where the rattle comes from. Once the pressure builds up and the tensioner has fluid in it again, it puts tension back on the chain and the sound goes away ... as what happened in my case. The problem is, when this happens, the chain actually get stretched out a bit. Once this happens a few times, then the change is too stretched out to work properly, or fails altogether, which is when you get the horrible sounds that you hear in some of the videos. Well, Gabe the tech was great. He, along with some other techs, managed to find that the tensioner was bad and that my cam chain was out of spec. So .. I got a nice little Clubbie to use for the weekend, and, hopefully, Ollie's surgery will turn out well. So, if your car has a few squeaks and rattles (and remember, this engine by nature has a bit of a "tappity-tappity-tappity" sound due to the DI) please dont' freak out and flood your dealer with inquiries. However, if you start your car and hear something that you KNOW isn't copacetic, make sure to get it checked out early.