Most liked posts in thread: The Phoenix - The GP Roadster Project

  1. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Stock blower, meth, GP intercooler on a Stroker is pretty damned nice, and if your tuned for meth...Although on a Stroker, I would just use meth to cool, but that's just me.

    The issue is you're becoming a track rat, and it's unlikely you'll be able to run meth on the track. Definitely not 100% without some serious modification to your car (think dedicated fuel cell, which is easy, behind a separate bulkhead, which is not so easy). If you can now, enjoy it while it lasts, because I've seen many groups get rid of it, even 50/50, which isn't even combustible.

    You shouldn't need meth with the mother of all FMIC's Jan is putting in. Car should run safely cool all day long. What I'm trying to gently say is that if you're considering the TVS, maybe forego the custom meth kit and put the money toward that. Just an unasked for opinion, sorry...

    Maybe you'll be done? That's bullfeces and we all know it. It's not a matter of if but when.:D I'll take maybe not for the win.
     
  2. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

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    Wahoo!

    Strokin the GPness! :D
     
  3. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    #522 BlimeyCabrio, May 10, 2015
    Last edited: May 10, 2015
    At MOTD, Colin rode along with me for a day. He commented that the seating position with my Corbeau seats was a bit "flatter" than he would like. I hadn't really thought about it before then, but as soon as I heard it, I knew that was correct... they really did need a little more tilt to the lower cushion.

    So I pulled the seats and added about 7-8mm of spacer between the seat base and the slider rail, on the front bolts. Didn't impact the function of the sliders or the integrity of the seat, just pitched the seat back a bit. And OMG I can't believe the difference. Wish I had done this before I drove 2000 miles last week. :eek:

    In this pic, the passenger seat is "done", driver is yet to be done. Subtle in the pic, significant in person. Both took less than an hour.
    [​IMG]

    Yesterday, had planned to swap the auto accelerator pedal, for the one from the GP.

    Why? Because the auto pedal has a "kick down" detent at the bottom of travel, to activate the gear kick down function on the auto tranny control. No such thing on the manual. Everything still works fine, but the detent is vestigial.

    After getting the alloy pedal cover swapped, I discovered that some crafty engineers used a slightly different connector on the auto wiring harness and pedal, I assume to prevent a careless technician from accidentally doing what I'm attempting to do on purpose. :roll eyes:
    [​IMG]

    So, an hour wasted, as I put everything back to it's original state. I plan to disassemble the GP pedal and see if it's easy to swap the connector module between the two pedal assemblies, but this requires a 5-point tamper resistant driver bit, which I had to order from eBay. I'm traveling next week, so will be a couple of weeks before I can make another attempt.
     
  4. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Yeah, those look fantastic, if I knew that finish looked that good I might have gone for that. That's going to look great on your car.
     
  5. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    These are for the track only. I'll keep running the 16" Star Specs for the twisties.

    I'll probably drive three hours each way to the track on the NT01's next week. After that, I'll have a wheel trailer.

    But it's possible I might have the trailer ready by next week...
     
  6. ColinGreene

    ColinGreene Well-Known Member
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    May 15, 2009
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    Dunno man, we made it to the dragon and back on the RS3s on jans GP and it never wore the hankook lettering out of the center band neither of us drove that car easy out and back and jan was like doing more than 30 on the dragon and hellbender.
    I fully do not believe that you were doing only 30 to put that tyre wear on the tread.
     
  7. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Next week is CMP. Which is also the last track I drove, and where I met the tire wall. :eek6:

    But it's a great track for MINIs, and mine should be able to haul the mail a bit better in the straights than last time I was there. I had a great instructor/coach last time, who also owns a MINI, so he had me pushing the car as hard as it could go on my old brakes and tires. 100% my responsibility, that I pushed it a little harder than *I* could go, on that particular day.

    With the track pads in and the new calipers, I had more brake than tire with the StarSpecs, so I'm looking forward to having more longitudinal grip. I was already able to carry good speed around the corners, and will be a little more conservative on how early I get on throttle until I get a feel for the new setup (that's what did me in last time). But now with the LSD and more grip and more torque from the GP ECU/tune and manual.... it's gonna be a bit "different" than the last time I was on-track.

    Will have 8 sessions over two days, if I stay out of the wall this time. Will be a good chance to get comfortable with the new setup, on a track that's less fast than VIR.

    Should have the stroker in before VIR in September. Then... watch out. :devil:
     
  8. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

    Mar 30, 2009
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    You need some sticky tires for the trailer otherwise it will be all over the place in the corners.
     
  9. Spa2k

    Spa2k Well-Known Member

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    Wow - that's exactly the same setup I built to pull with my 1990 Miata for autocrossing a long time ago - except the truck box was on the rear and the tires were in front to load the hitch better. The Miata would tow that rig at 75+ all day long.

    One thing that was a problem then and I've heard may still be a problem today - keeping the wheel bearings on the trailer greased. The cheap stock bearings got so hot that they boiled the grease out of them. When we first started using the trailer, we used to stop every 50 miles to make sure the cap on the hub wasn't too hot to touch. We ended up going to the highest-quality bearing grease we could find, and never had to change the bearings - although a lot of guys ran them dry and did need to replace them. We also added a jack with a caster on the front, so we could wheel the trailer around and keep it flat so we could use the top of the box as a work surface (OK, lunch table). :Thumbsup:
     
  10. Spa2k

    Spa2k Well-Known Member

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    We finally figured out that doing two stacks of two tires flat rode better and kept the tires from moving around and trying to lean off one side of the trailer or the other, even though they were securely strapped down. We used aluminum angle as a crosspiece, and drillled holes in that to hold vertical threaded rods bolted to the aluminum; the tires were secured by generic replacement spare tire holddowns. We also mounted a flashing red LED (connected to a 9-volt battery inside) to a hole in the latch plate on the box to simulate an alarm. Other guys got their boxes broken into, but we never did. :lol:
     
  11. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

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    Yes! [emoji12]

    Full Retard or GTFO! [emoji41]
     
  12. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    I'd ceramic that byatch. Now's the perfect time.
     
  13. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    I've come a long way, since I bought your old Koni FSD's. :cool:
     
  14. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Damn, lift looks great!
     
  15. cerenkov

    cerenkov New Member

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    When you're done with the engine install and it's all broken in, I'd love to come and see the car, I'm just up in Wake Forest.
     
  16. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    At least you have your car...I'm a dual pass radiator, some graphics, 6 hours of dyno time, and a 3400 mile trip on a flatbed away from getting mine...
     
  17. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Supplies...

    5626BCE8-EAA1-4A6C-A70C-320B80E1F570_zpswca2ysbs.jpg

    Yes, I'm going to run lawn mower oil and diesel truck oil in my uber expensive built engine. For a short while.
     
  18. Batrugger

    Batrugger New Member

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    You have three oil changes and 700mi of yo-yo driving to look forward to
     
  19. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Good progress today...

    Started the swap-over of stuff to the new motor.

    Swapping the valve covers gave me a chance to gander at the internals of the new head...
    919FF928-6DE8-472A-9C49-617294DE77FE_zpssr3b0omk.jpg

    Installed plugs per Jan's spec, confirmed proper gap of 0.028"
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    Was going to swap over my ATI Super Damper... but broke 6 T40 bits trying to remove a bolt to pull it. One of which flew into my forehead and drew blood...
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    Two bolts came out fine, no others would budge. Finally punted and ordered a new damper. Current one has almost 100k miles on it, probably time to rebuild anyway, if I can ever get it off.

    Pulled the transmission and cracked open the case. Actually looked nice and clean for a 76k mile tranny... that's good.
    6008F5BF-51F3-4275-94D4-78B5DAE3A393_zps54mrwe3h.jpg E2743022-6B1A-47EB-B058-843795B393D5_zps1p8djdyd.jpg
    There was a nice collection of metallic goo on the magnet inside...
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    That's better...
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    Pressed the ring gear off the factory LSD...
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    And pressed it onto the new OS Giken LSD...
    [​IMG]

    Pressed on a new pair of bearings...
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    [​IMG]

    Where it belongs. Bolts torqued with red loctite.
    [​IMG]

    Case sealed and reassembled...
    [​IMG]

    Swapped clutch onto the new motor, and fitted the transmission. Started swapping over brackets, sensors, oil filter housing, intake manifold studs, thermostat and stuff. Almost there...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    About an hour tomorrow to finish up installing starter, hoses and engine harness... and it will be ready to hang! But I'm going to detour to installing meth system and gauge/datalogger system first, while the engine is out.
     
  20. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Getting really close to hanging this back in the car...
    4AB44308-278E-42B8-B3DA-754AC8711C85_zpssaou3804.jpg 617563D9-1CD4-4260-B876-470CA2EE79D5_zpsd4bxp2me.jpg

    Sold my TPR-1 head today, pulled it off the old block to inspect it. Head looks good after about 100k miles. Cam had some visible galling after about 125k miles, time for a new one.
    Cylinders and pistons look good. A little carbon on the pistons, but not much considering the mileage. Meth works wonders.


    691C1F6D-61BF-49F6-AD6C-A7101610A61B_zpscnhakmvq (1).jpg 5151AC69-EAC1-4EC4-91B7-B248852C92D4_zpsmnulwrqs.jpg 64328304-DCDF-4870-A057-F4FA63ADF8A0_zpszip23kyu.jpg

    Tomorrow will install the Greene Performance slave, start on the Aquamist, and might hang the engine... Also need to work on fixing my flex joint on the old header, to use for a little while. Might fire up the welder and DIY it...