When you're done with the engine install and it's all broken in, I'd love to come and see the car, I'm just up in Wake Forest.
I think I'm going to have the header coated by Swain Tech. I like what I'm reading about their stuff the best, from folks who have tried various coatings. Unfortunately they have a 3 week turnaround time in shop right now. So a month including shipping to get it done. Ugh. I'll have to fix the flex joint in my street header and add a wideband bung to it, so I can reinstall next week. No big deal.
At least you have your car...I'm a dual pass radiator, some graphics, 6 hours of dyno time, and a 3400 mile trip on a flatbed away from getting mine...
More progress. Apparently, when you do something a lot, you get better at it. I'm getting good at pulling MINI engines. Engine disconnected, key parts removed, ready to pull... Hook up the crane and lift... Bay is ready for some stroking'... Old and new together... ready for the parts swap....
Supplies... Yes, I'm going to run lawn mower oil and diesel truck oil in my uber expensive built engine. For a short while.
Looking good and a lot of stuff, I know what you mean about pulling out Mini engines and boxes. My first gearbox removal was around 2.5 hours, now I'm down to 1 1/4 hours.
Good progress today... Started the swap-over of stuff to the new motor. Swapping the valve covers gave me a chance to gander at the internals of the new head... Installed plugs per Jan's spec, confirmed proper gap of 0.028" Was going to swap over my ATI Super Damper... but broke 6 T40 bits trying to remove a bolt to pull it. One of which flew into my forehead and drew blood... Two bolts came out fine, no others would budge. Finally punted and ordered a new damper. Current one has almost 100k miles on it, probably time to rebuild anyway, if I can ever get it off. Pulled the transmission and cracked open the case. Actually looked nice and clean for a 76k mile tranny... that's good. There was a nice collection of metallic goo on the magnet inside... That's better... Pressed the ring gear off the factory LSD... And pressed it onto the new OS Giken LSD... Pressed on a new pair of bearings... Where it belongs. Bolts torqued with red loctite. Case sealed and reassembled... Swapped clutch onto the new motor, and fitted the transmission. Started swapping over brackets, sensors, oil filter housing, intake manifold studs, thermostat and stuff. Almost there... About an hour tomorrow to finish up installing starter, hoses and engine harness... and it will be ready to hang! But I'm going to detour to installing meth system and gauge/datalogger system first, while the engine is out.
Getting really close to hanging this back in the car... Sold my TPR-1 head today, pulled it off the old block to inspect it. Head looks good after about 100k miles. Cam had some visible galling after about 125k miles, time for a new one. Cylinders and pistons look good. A little carbon on the pistons, but not much considering the mileage. Meth works wonders. Tomorrow will install the Greene Performance slave, start on the Aquamist, and might hang the engine... Also need to work on fixing my flex joint on the old header, to use for a little while. Might fire up the welder and DIY it...
So some expert who shall remain nameless (Colin) said "Why would you put all the stuff on it first. What a pain that would be going back in." It took me 10 MINUTES to hang the engine, with all the stuff on it, solo. SRSLY. It was an experiment, really. I've always done it the "conventional" way, taking lots of stuff off first to take it out, and putting all that stuff (intake, supercharger, throttle body, etc) back on after the engine was in place. But I really didn't think it would be an issue hanging the engine with it on there. And it wasn't, I just had to use a different hanging point to balance it. Also installed the 1 billion horsepower RMW axles. Had to fight the passenger side axle bracket snap ring for about an hour. Geesh. But it's done. Have I mentioned lately how much I love having a lift?
Lots of progress in the last few days... Finished getting the engine hooked up. Installed Greene Performance uprated clutch slave while things were apart. Old OEM slave was starting to seep. This one is a bit stiffer and has much more "feel". Did the first oil fill - this is just for the initial firing and warm-up. Non-detergent lawn mower oil. Replaced with Rotella T for break-in, after the first warm-up. Used my Schwaben cooling system evacuation tool to fill the cooling system. This thing is awesome, draws a vacuum on the cooling system and then fills, so it doesn't need bleeding. Pulled the plugs, pulled the fuel pump fuse, and ran the starter a couple of long cycles to prime the new motor with oil. Then reinstall plugs, intercooler and fuel pump fuse. Loaded new RMW tune to support 550cc injectors. Ready to Fire!!! [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62yBqKDuXWc"]Firing the RMW Stroker - YouTube[/ame]
Damn that's impressive Paul, nice job! Where did you get that coolant bleeder/filler? That looks damned easy, and there is nothing worse than an air pocket in the cooling system...
Great work, have fun breaking it in. I got one of these because my 88 16V Scirocco has a bubble I can't get rid of: Amazon.com: FJC 43610 Radiator Coolant Vacuum Refill Kit: Automotive [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1BGj0FaKkM"]10-20-13 for wtbm123 radiator vacuum coolant refill kit - YouTube[/ame] I haven't tried it on the Scirocco, but it worked great on the MINI.
ECS Tuning sells the Schwaben tools. Regularly about $75, but they have frequent sales. It's a great tool.
Day one review: Drove about 80 break-in miles today. In my world, "break-in miles" do NOT equal "easy miles". I drive it like I stole it.... I just keep it below 6000 RPM as much as possible. This motor has so much torque, you can have PLENTY of fun below 6000 RPM. It pulls hard from 3000 RPM to (I assume) redline. Which, after break in and tuning, will be north of 8000 RPM!!! The biggest revelation for me today was how much air this motor can breathe, and the impact that has on supercharger boost pressure and Intake Air Temperature (IAT). On my old motor, all else being equal (flapless JCW intake/AMSoil filter, same supercharger, 17% pulley, ported intake manifold, street header, Milltek exhaust) peak boost was over 16 psi. This thing flows so much air, peak boost is about 12psi. OMG YOU LOST BOOST!!!! you might be thinking. Well, sortof. But the supercharger is moving the same amount of air at a given RPM. Actually, it's probably moving more, because it's meeting less resistance (pressure). It's just that the Lawd Jeezus head, high-lift Dominator cam and 1.8l motor can consume it so much more efficiently. The motor still feels torquey when under boost. It just doesn't require as much pressure to do it. What's the effect? The biggest is IAT. Today it was 100F here when I was breaking in the motor. I was doing wide open throttle (WOT) pulls from about 2500-5500, over and over again. I don't have my new meth system setup yet, so I'm running with no meth. On my old motor, repeated WOT pulls like this on a hot day, with no meth, would have spiked IATs near 200F, even with the GP intercooler. Today? 120-130F. Incredible. That directly translates into increased air density and more power. AND less wear and tear on the supercharger and motor. And the motor is silky smooth, and doesn't even feel like it's working hard at WOT. It REALLY WANTS more air. When the TVS, Vipec and long tube header are on... it will be insane. Because it's fast with 12psi. When it has 22psi? OMG. More thoughts in my video review below, including TORQUE!!! and SOUNDS!!! [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQF9bGzzNlE"]Locutus RMW Stroker Day 1 - YouTube[/ame] Update: Jan reminded me... 27mm exhaust valves lol