Thanks Paul... Didn't want to hijack your thread, just wanted to give you another idea for cooling the brakes deep inside the hats...
It gets kinda hot at the track, when it's 100F in the shade. So I bought a 13qt CoolShirt system. Installed it today. Instead of the $220 Cool Shirt flow controller, I used a simple PWM speed controller from Amazon... $12. Yes, $12 instead of $220. Does EXACTLY the same thing. Simple wiring. Switched power (from an add-a-circuit in the footwell fusebox) and ground in, and two wires out to the CoolShirt pump. Mounted it under the center stack, where I can reach it, while harnessed in. Clicks on/off, and one turn to full flow. Easy to trim the flow as desired once you've cooled down. Running it at less than full flow extends the runtime on one fill of ice packs and water. Should get a full day of track sessions (~2hrs on the track), plus some time in the paddock. Cooler goes in the rear, straps down using the cabrio tie-down points. Added quick connects on the wiring so it's easy to pull out. All the hoses come with quick connects that don't drain when unhooked. Just a few drips of water, no big deal. Filled it with some cold packs from the freezer, topped of with water, and sealed it up. Put on the shirt, hooked up the hoses, and switched it on. I'm water cooled! I'm leaving the 12' hoses and the shirt hoses at full length, for maximum flexibility. At the track, I can pull the system out of the car in 2 minutes and run it off a spare battery for cooling while sitting in the paddock! I'll wire up a separate power harness for that. I bought the system from Linda at Apex Performance. They're fantastic folks, and if you call her she can hook you up with a great price. Mine is the 12/13qt "Club" System. Here's the speed controller switch I used.
I like those suits but I made a cool seat instead for the rally, basically some 1/4 plastic tubing to a similar pattern to the suit sewn to a fabric sheet, then the pipes go to a washer bottle filled with ice. I switch on the pump during the rally and bingo! a nice cool back. Cost me $30 The ice last about 2 stages.
No GPR has AC. Except for the wind in your hair. And AC doesn't even help much on the track in a tiptop, on a 100F day with the windows down (as they must be).
Well Paul at least has no roof! In a rally car you can get cabin temps of around 120F add your helmet, 3 layer suit, under wear long johns it gets exhausting. I shed around 5 to 8 lbs during a rally
Insane GP Roadster Project of the weekend: Remote oil cooler. There won't be room up front for a typical cooler when my monstrous front-mount Intercooler is installed (with the new TVS supercharger). So had to improvise. Found a nice Derale packaged unit with twin puller fans (Model 15845), that I could mount on the rear deck. Some lucky hose routing, drilled a couple of holes, and it all just came together. RMW oil cooler adapter plate, -10 AN hose and fittings, 190F thermostat for the fans. Stock cooler, hoses removed. Looped back one coolant hose and secured with a hose clamp. RMW adapter plate installed, with -10 AN fittings (-8 AN ORB into the plate) and longer M6 bolts. Be sure to use fresh seals behind the plate! -10 AN hose, cuts like buttah with large Harbor Freight cable / hose cutters ($20). Use the polyester sheath hose, NOT the hose with the stainless sheath. Because if that stainless hose touches anything, it acts like a cheese grater, very quickly. Installed 90deg ends and attached hoses. Since I'm going to the rear of the car, best routing for me was down the right side seam. Gets there between the tie rod boot and swaybar. Yes, there's clearance... Barely. To the seam. There just happens to be an indentation in the floor pan there that is perfect for the hose to nest into. Took a while to decide on optimal routing into the rear compartment. Many times up and down on the lift, finally found a spot that would clear everything and be close to the corner. Held important stuff out of the way above and below, and carefully drilled holes. Use grommets so the body doesn't cut the hose! Measure, mark and cut hole in plywood deck. Taped it first, to protect the vinyl. Pretty it up! Mount the cooler. Attach ends and hoses, and wire it up! Switched power to the thermostat, then to the fans, 7.5A. Tidy up all the wiring and hoses. Replace the underbody panel, working the hoses into their final position, on top of the edge of the panel and up against the body seam, out of harm's way. Nothing exposed underneath. Worked in the garage test, fans cycle on and off as they should, no leaks. The fans exhaust an impressive amount of hot air when running. Will road test it today.
Took the car out and pounded on it for almost 2 hours. The car LOVES the cooler. Gets up to temp like normal, then stays 200-220F per the pan sensor no matter how hard I pound on it, on a 95F day. It will certainly get more abuse on the track, but I suspect it will stay below 240. Which is a huge improvement. Water temps stay lower, also. Win.
It definitely was warm out today, glad things worked according to plan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Paul, nice set up, love the fan, very Audi S1. Did the oil pressure drop after all the piping and height of the cooler? I ask because I read somewhere that there is a limit for the distance of the cooler from the stock oil pump due to oil pumping efficiency.
Pressure seems normal. Gauge reads about the same thing it did before, maybe a few psi lower but nothing substantial. In proper operating range at normal driving revs. JanB has his cooler at the back of the car with similar line length with no issues, also.