Fun & Games Most liked posts in thread: This is why I do not use wax anymore

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

I fill them up over a few days to a weeks allowing them to dry and cure. I end up with a little paint pimple where the rock chip was that needs to be wet sanded down with 3000 grit.

I level sand with wet 300 grit sandpaper the chip repair and maybe 3 to 6 inch's around it. After I am done wet sanding the chip pimple down and the area around the chip it will blend in with the area around it. It will look dry like a chalkboard when you are done sanding.

After this stage I compound and polish the wet sanded area to bring back the gloss and blend the area in with the rest of the hood or door. Since I am very picky I compound the whole area and polish the whole area so you can not see the area where I did the rock chip repair. You may know where the chip was but you will not be able to see the repair unless you used the wrong color OEM paint from the beginning.

Note/ Caution: If you have never Wet Sanded before get a junk yard panel and try and practice the process the whole process above first.

It is very simple to wet sand and 3000 grit paper is very fine grit. You just have to keep the area wet with soapy water and a sponge. Do not be scared because if you wet sand an area with 3000 you can always polish it out. You would need to wet sand the same area very hard for over an hour to even sand though the clear coat.

You will see very quickly that 3000 grit cuts very slooooowly.

Just so you know I use 1500 an 2000 grit to remove "orange peel" and refinish headlight lenses and can still compound / polish them out with a make them look flawless again with a DA polisher products from earlier post above.

 

The Rupes Duetto is the tops and the Griots is very close 2nd. Either one will work great.

As for sanding with the Duetto, Nope, I would not do it ever with a machine unless I was prepping something for paint.

I always wet sand paint by hand and check my work along the way with a quick wipe from a squeegee to check the progress of my work.

All anyone needs is wet sand paper (3000 grit) , a foam sanding block to keep everything level. Just cut the paper to wrap around the block , dunk it in a bucket of soapy water with your sponge and go to it. I keep an sponge in the buck to wet the area then start sanding. I keep a spray bottle of soapy water in one hand and spray the area as I am sanding when it gets a little dry. This allows me to keep sanding without reaching back in the bucket for the sponge over and over when working on a roof or something high. Also dunk or wipe the paper often to make sure I don't have anything stuck to the paper which could be making marks on the paint. Slow and steady is the key and always checking your progress along the way.

 

Make sure you get a quality backing plate for your DA's. Don't use the one with the white pad comes with the Portal Cable 7424 XP DA.

The one I use is the Griots is below and it works for all foam and MF pads. It is strong and last forever.

http://www.remtechdetailingsolutions.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/Backingplate5inchsuperpremiumChe-2.jpg

http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Backing-Plate-for-Porter-Cable-7424-P56/125-mm-S2/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQVF8J0/ref=twister_B01J2QVTI4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

I work by hand since it's a small area.