1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: This thing is broken and I need suggestions.

This will fix that forever. https://www.greeneperformance.com/mini/mounts/minupr53.html

Yes it cost more but they don't fail.

 

Vibratechnics. Problem solved.

 

It does look like the old ALTA one. :lol:

I would pass on this IC since it cost $670.00 and comes with free silicone leaky boots. This is without shipping to the U.S.A.. Also who drives a car with the hood open? No one I know so why do that test :idea: just to get numbers for test results.

The GP IC is still the one to buy.

 

A new one? :biggrin5:

They're fairly easy to change, a long bolt goes in from the bottom and a couple nuts on the top - take the weight off by using a jack under the engine, and out she comes. Installation is the reverse, as they say.

Someone does make a solid mount, but to me that means more NVH which would make the car miserable under normal driving conditions.

Alcohol is the best stuff to get the black crap off the car, nothing else will touch it.

 

The OEM/OEM style mounts seem to last 20,000-40,000 miles...they usually sell for $90 ish +/- 25$, and a shop will charge about 30 minutes to change it...you can diy it...suggest you buy the extra bolt for $1.10 or so...the hydraulic fluid that leaks out can corrode it...Siezing it...
Some folks do switch to the vibratec mount...but several hundred more...then there is the TSW urethane mount...each has there own + and -......cost, comfort, and longevity....

 

When it's other people's money and car, why not go big!?

 

Depends on how adventurous you are.... The black double cone main structure in the TSW mount is made from polyurethane... Which is a cured thermoset material (base resin + activator).... It's a fixed durometer material with it's hardness determined by the chemicals used during the mix and cure.... it won't change.... Basically the polyurethane used in the TSW part is harder than what you desire for street use...

Now you could take and make a copy by creating a mold (silicone mold making kits are readily available) and make a replacement double cone part, but use a lower durometer (softer) polyurethane than that used in the TSW part.....

Or do a hack using your old OEM mount like this DIY that replaces the internal rubber fluid bladder (similar to the MINI), replacing it with polyurethane... McMaster-Carr sells the chemicals that are available in various durometers at around $30.00 for a pound of material..... http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds/=sp32al

Monnar Motorsports: Engine Mounts Filled With Polyurethane

 

Were you able to hand tighten the bolt that connected dog bone to shock tower? If not the dog bone is binding and likely causing the excessive NVH. If binding, loosen the dog bone and turn a few more threads until you can hand tighten. Then lock the dog bone nut like before.

I'm with Nathan -- turn up the radio

 

+1
Anything other than a gp unit is a waste($$ and performance wise) unless you want bling...

 

Actually, they can be rebuilt. But you are not likely going need to do that for quite sometime. You can talk to Colin through the link above regarding the cost of the rebuild kit.

 

I've changed mine once. Cost for the part including install by the dealer, $175 CDN (about $150USD).

If my second mount breaks in the next 1 to 5 years and I get another factory mount installed, it will still come out less than the cost of the Vibratec and I would have driven my car 10 to 15 years before my break even cost of the Vibratec compared to the replacement using a stock mount.

As gorgeous as the vibratec mount looks, I can't cost justify having it. But then others can so go for it.

I did keep my old one so if somebody knows how to repair it, please share.

 

Another benefit of the Vibratechnics is that it allows less engine movement than the OEM. I don't have the Vibratechnics but I have an engine damper for the same purpose, and it is a real benefit with manual transmission.

 

Turn up stereo...

Whats behind you is not important.

There, problem solved!

 

The TSW motor mount is known to cause vibration (Google it) and gets even worse in cold temperatures. You'll have to live with it or switch to something else.

 

Some folks have said it will "break in" in a few months....or maybe you will just get used to it....
The tsw mount is pretty hardcore....
For race/track car might be perfect...
For a daily...a bit aggressive from most posts....
Thought about it last time....but went stock AGAIN...Could not justify the $$$ on the other aftermarket one....but was not Blown away by the tsw mount reviews....vibration mostly.

 

TSW mount is made for RACE CAR because you don't care about vibrations.

Why because RACE CAR!

 

Actually, I had one of those BSH lower mounts for a short while and ditched it for the vibratechnic lower wishbone mount. Here.

The difference is night and day. Still a solid upgrade over the spongey OEM lower mount. But SIGNIFICANTLY less harmonics into the cab than the solid brick of aluminium that is the BSH. but it's also paired with the Vibratechnic upper mount too, so your results may vary.

Also, if the rattle coming from mirror gets to be too much.... you can also relocate the keyless entry circuit into the headliner like I did. yeah the mirror view is still a bit blurry at certain rpms, but it's quiet.

 

You need the VT mount Fred!

 

My experience: On 06 R52, I replaced engine bushings with Orange Softest Polys from Madness, and replaced the top one with OEM. Also have the Super Damper. There is no discernable NVH above idle. The car is silk-smooth in every respect. The rearview mirror is vibration-free except from the road bumps, and all is clear. Yet the car is tight and engine has very limited motion. I just put on 2,100 miles in two weekends and came back virtually rested.

--Russ