1st Gen R53 Cooper S Threw codes at the track

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by BThayer23, Oct 3, 2010.

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  1. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #1 BThayer23, Oct 3, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
    I spend Saturday and Sunday at VIR at the local BMW club's HPDE. Sunny, 70*F, slight breeze, awesome days. On Sunday afternoon, 2/3 of the way through the session, I'm heading up the bridge straight, supercharger is spooling up, maybe 5k rpm, and then the supercharger cuts out, boost drops to 0. I clutch in, coast, engine's still running, so I limp it around and pit out.

    We checked the intercooler boots for a crack or hole, nothing. Bypass valve was moving, so it wasn't stuck open. Can't find anything loose or falling off or leaking. Car was making normal vacuum on idle. I was able to drive it unless I made positive intake manifold pressure, so I kept one eye on the boost gauge and one on the road, keeping the boost under 0 psi. Took a couple hours to get home, but the car seemed okay.

    At Advance Auto, I read the OBD and got these codes: P1109, P1242, and P1688. In the parking lot, we noticed a burning smell coming from the back of the block. Any ideas what could have happened?

    Limping home from the track sucks. :frown5::frown5:
     
  2. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    Crank damper / pulley failing, I'd bet. Similar symptoms as when mine died...
     
  3. beaner

    beaner New Member

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    Good call, Blimey. Almost certainly.
     
  4. Jan

    Jan Well-Known Member
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    crank pulley without a doubt
     
  5. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

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    Per Bentley the codes are:

    P1109- Manifold air pressure too high in deceleration

    P1242- Secondary upstream manifold air pressure too high in deceleration

    P1688- Electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 mass air flow calculation

    Does sound the way Blimey's was doing that day just before his crank pulley went south Ben.... Time to call Dan to be sure..
     
  6. Doggybags

    Doggybags New Member

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    #6 Doggybags, Oct 3, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2010
    Crank damper failure also results in overheating. Not sure if it was one of the symptoms experienced. Sure sounds like it was the damper though.
     
  7. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    I kept an eye on the oil and water temp, and nothing was too dangerous. But yeah, a friend told me the supercharger doesn't spin fast enough to run the water pump when the crank pulley fails. Luckily it was relatively cool out, and it got cooler while I was driving home.

    The same friend pointed out that heat is not only the result of crank pulley failure but the cause, which made me remember that I have a brake duct running right next to my crank pulley, so the airflow to my pulley is already reduced. Tack on the 15% supercharger pulley I installed last weekend, and the big straightaways at VIR were probably cooking that thing.

    Thanks for the diagnostic help, guys.
     
  8. beaner

    beaner New Member

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    I wouldn't over analyze the cause. Failures are starting to show up on cars that never see the track. Just get am ATI Superdamper and enjoy the track.
     
  9. Onasled Racing

    Onasled Racing New Member

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    if you just installed a 15% last week then this would be the first thing I would check.
    Are you still running the factory crank pulley?
     
  10. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    Yup, that was the OEM pulley. I haven't gotten under the car to examine it yet, but I think all signs point to the crank pulley. When I had the car apart to do the supercharger oil and oil pan gasket, I took pictures of random parts of the car. Here's the crank pulley before failure.

    [​IMG]

    I think the rusty stuff on the outside is where the broken brake duct hose wire was rubbing. I had a hole in the duct that may have been inadvertently cooling the pulley, but I patched that up when I put the car together.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    Good advice, thanks. I was exhausted last night after limping the car all the way home. A 60 mile trip took 2.5 hours, staring at the boost gauge all the way home. Also, I need to get an OBD code reader. Nobody in the paddock had one - too many E30's and E36's.
     
  12. TGS91

    TGS91 New Member

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    Sorry to hear your troubles

    Dr O set me up with a pretty slick OBD reader, drop him a line
     
  13. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #13 BThayer23, Oct 5, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2010
    I think I've made a positive diagnosis. I pulled the wheel and fender liner, and I took the belt off. When I reached under the brake duct, I could wiggle the part of the crank pulley that has the belt grooves in it. I'm actually surprised I could drive the thing. I could spin the outer ring around the inner part of the crank pulley with little effort.

    Look closely, I wiggled it one way, snapped a pic, then wiggled it the other way and snapped another picture.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  14. Dr Obnxs

    Dr Obnxs New Member

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    I guess

    that when you were driving it, the tension from the belt was enough to press it onto what was left of the elastomer and the friction spun the belts. When there was a big load on the belt (boost, or A/C... Good thing you weren't running it!) then the sucker would spin big time and you'd go into limp mode.

    Matt
     
  15. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that crank damper is dead alright. I am only aware of a few damped options:
    1. OEM
    2. I recently installed the ATI Super Damper and like it.
    3. RMW has a fluid damper, not sure of the manufacturer though.
     
  16. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    OEM = not going on my car again

    Heard about the RMW pulley; apparently it's stock size vs +1% for the ATI pulley (but that won't affect the belt choice). I like things like steel and rubber, the idea of a fluid filled damper just doesn't appeal to me. Not saying it's a bad product or that I did much research into it, just a simple human bias. So I went with the ATI damper. Apparently they're awaiting a new production run, so I had to call around a few places to find one, but it's in the mail.
     
  17. Way Motor Works

    Way Motor Works New Member

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    I have like 10 in stock of the standard ATI dampers in stock. And about 15 of the 2% oversize ones here too.
     
  18. mike@MynesTuned

    [email protected] New Member

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    if you race your car on the track and you have the option between a Fluid Damper vs "vanilla jane" steel pulley, definitely go with the fluid damper... your engine will love you in the long run :Thumbsup:
     
  19. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

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    #1
     
  20. Jan

    Jan Well-Known Member
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    #20 Jan, Oct 14, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2010
    The reason the fluid design was created for this application is to avoid the source of the original failure and the repeat thereof.
     

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