Crank damper / pulley failing, I'd bet. Similar symptoms as when mine died...
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
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Per Bentley the codes are:
P1109- Manifold air pressure too high in deceleration
P1242- Secondary upstream manifold air pressure too high in deceleration
P1688- Electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 mass air flow calculation
Does sound the way Blimey's was doing that day just before his crank pulley went south Ben.... Time to call Dan to be sure.. -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
I kept an eye on the oil and water temp, and nothing was too dangerous. But yeah, a friend told me the supercharger doesn't spin fast enough to run the water pump when the crank pulley fails. Luckily it was relatively cool out, and it got cooler while I was driving home.
The same friend pointed out that heat is not only the result of crank pulley failure but the cause, which made me remember that I have a brake duct running right next to my crank pulley, so the airflow to my pulley is already reduced. Tack on the 15% supercharger pulley I installed last weekend, and the big straightaways at VIR were probably cooking that thing.
Thanks for the diagnostic help, guys. -
if you just installed a 15% last week then this would be the first thing I would check.
Are you still running the factory crank pulley? -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Yup, that was the OEM pulley. I haven't gotten under the car to examine it yet, but I think all signs point to the crank pulley. When I had the car apart to do the supercharger oil and oil pan gasket, I took pictures of random parts of the car. Here's the crank pulley before failure.
I think the rusty stuff on the outside is where the broken brake duct hose wire was rubbing. I had a hole in the duct that may have been inadvertently cooling the pulley, but I patched that up when I put the car together.
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
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Dr O set me up with a pretty slick OBD reader, drop him a line -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
I think I've made a positive diagnosis. I pulled the wheel and fender liner, and I took the belt off. When I reached under the brake duct, I could wiggle the part of the crank pulley that has the belt grooves in it. I'm actually surprised I could drive the thing. I could spin the outer ring around the inner part of the crank pulley with little effort.
Look closely, I wiggled it one way, snapped a pic, then wiggled it the other way and snapped another picture.
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I guess
that when you were driving it, the tension from the belt was enough to press it onto what was left of the elastomer and the friction spun the belts. When there was a big load on the belt (boost, or A/C... Good thing you weren't running it!) then the sucker would spin big time and you'd go into limp mode.
Matt -
Yep, that crank damper is dead alright. I am only aware of a few damped options:
1. OEM
2. I recently installed the ATI Super Damper and like it.
3. RMW has a fluid damper, not sure of the manufacturer though. -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Heard about the RMW pulley; apparently it's stock size vs +1% for the ATI pulley (but that won't affect the belt choice). I like things like steel and rubber, the idea of a fluid filled damper just doesn't appeal to me. Not saying it's a bad product or that I did much research into it, just a simple human bias. So I went with the ATI damper. Apparently they're awaiting a new production run, so I had to call around a few places to find one, but it's in the mail. -
Way Motor Works New Member
I have like 10 in stock of the standard ATI dampers in stock. And about 15 of the 2% oversize ones here too. -
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
Crank pulley definitely failed. Installed a new one and finally downloaded the pictures.