Technically its not a BMW cam, or engine... Its a Chrysler design built by TriTec in Brazil, originally developed for the European spec Dodge Neon.
With the cam looking like that, it kinda makes you wonder where exactly did all that metal go? It only takes one little piece to slip into a bearing and its done...
Car runs great. Had the short 5 sec engine rattle at first. Now it's super quiet. Feels a little bit better but hard to compare as its about 60 degrees warmer than last time she ran. But it still pulls at 2200 which is awesome and I'm reading about 2 lbs of boost higher and it's also more consistent boost at lower rpm
No....if it fails.... You need a motor.
Do not (IMO) fix mission critical parts that can cost you thousands of dollars that will only cost you a tiny amount in comparison.....
Pretty bad looking cam...my suggestion is you should use an oil with a higher zinc content....zdp is a high pressure additive added to oil to prevent wear and gauling when the oil film fails...most newer oil have less and less in hopes of prolonging cat life....cam wear like that is a sure sign of oil issues....maybe a low oil pressure situation or level in the past? Mini's generally do not have a reputation for having "soft" cams.....
Throw that JB weld carp in the trash... That stuff should never have been fostered on the general public... I have people using this stuff... Then they give up and bring it to my shop for a proper weld.... Takes us twice as long to make the repair because we need to dig it all out or it turns to carbon and weakens our real weld... Ends up costing the customer more for the extra labor....
The MINI is equipped with rocker rollers that allow it to be driven shortly after a new roller camshaft install, unlike other types of valve trains and follower cams that require a 20-minute break-in period with special rpm
requirements.
A simple no would of done I was obviously open to interpretation as I did start the thread lol and thank you. I just really really wanna drive my car so bad. I hate not living near a dealership.
I got one in the mail already from the stealership 75$ after tax and shipping. Just excited to have a good cam back in her as she was fairly low on compreasion (about 120)
Just to point out....
A cam does not have much to do with compression...... It just activates the valves by way of the lifters.....a cam simply changes the duration of when/how long/ how far the valves are open....if you have had poor compression before a cam...it will not be changed by a cam....what a cam does is allows the valves to stay open longer (in most cases)letting a tuner agjust the maps to make more power at higher rpms....no tune can still get you a gain....but once your rings or valves are worn investing in a motor with such serious issues is an iffy propostion at best...OEM cam was toast...bet the old lifters were just as bad...might destroy the new cam ....but with such low compression....the car will run OK....but tuning it to make HP is iffy....IMO $$$ would have been best saved for a motor swap or a ring job/_valve job....but with a history of making metal....I would not even do that..(the high miles would be indicative of more wear, such as bearing wear)....I would just swap it out....one shard of metal and one bearing is all it takes...boom!!
Good luck..know $$ is tight.....but some times throwing $$$ after bad costs more in the end....
Sorry to paint such a stark picture, but reality checks can be useful.....
So are you saying cams have absolutely no effects on compression period? I'm not talking about a physical set compression ratio. I am speaking about the actual compression the cylinder is generating. So in other words instead of 8.5:1 I am referring to 130psi. You bet your ass it effects it. If the valves not open for as long it won't suck in as much air and compress as much. That's how different cams make more power too. Also my block is fine. And so is my bottom end. I've taken my oil pan off and visually inspected the lower end that's why I was so stumped about the metal shavings. The motor had some bad bad oil leaks from the oil cooler and filter gaskets causing it to run I'm sure far below minimum capacity. If you look at that cam you can tell it's from lack of oil. Sometime around beginning of this next year when I get my tax return I'll be putting a fair amount into my mini. Hopefully the tvs900 is done. I'll get a big valve and ported rmw head and probably just do a quick go ove r on my motor. The rocker arms are fine actually just some very slight film wear otherwise they are perfectly fine. I'll have to post pictures of it. I think you may have just jump to conclusion about my engine when you saw the cam. Honestly don't know many cams that go bad like that from only the miles my car has. Especially bmw high quality cam. Something happened besides mileage that did that and It is clearly obvious. But I can't control what previous owner did and didn't do.
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