Keith: I really like your "today's job" series. You see things that most of us never want to see. It is never the end of the world with your car in the right hands. Thanks.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
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Finally a hot-rod task on this job; bench install of a reduction pulley.
The pulley was perfectly true, that doesn't always happen.
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This is a "wrench" that is meticulous in his work. Everything gets checked and torqued. As it should be.
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Photos from Job#7
The leaking bracket.
The bracket crack.
Torn mount bushing, the other side was just as bad.
The pitch control bushing was torn completely through.
Separated hydraulic engine mount damper.
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Yes, thankfully.
The stock flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate are in great shape. Except, of course, for the fingers the release bearing was pushing against.
They are sitting on a shelf in the garage in the OSGiken box.-
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Today's Job R56 2885 Code
The 2885 code on an R56 can mean too much or too little boost. Usually it indicates a failed diverter valve, but can also accompany a failed turbo, or leaks in the charge path. If the boost has been upped, but sensors not upgraded as well, then this code will be generated too.
When all has been deemed healthy on the boost side, the next place to look for a problem is with vacuum. The rubber tubing serving the wastegate is sensitive to oil & solvents, exposure can create swelling and loss of seal. Then there's heat. The rubber can weaken and collapse while under vacuum, preventing timely opening & closing of the wastegate, thereby affecting exhaust pressure. Evidently heat has been enough of an issue with the R56 for the tubes to undergo a part change. In the photo below, the new tubes at the top have thick insulating material wrapped around a short section, the tubes at the bottom are unprotected and have melted areas on its sheath, the hard tubes beneath are melted a little too.
Unfortunately, the photos of the damage I want to display aren't clear. The 2885 problem with this R56 JCW was a collapsed kink in the waste gate hose (fatter of the two). At about the same point where the new insulation is located, there was a small spot, which had become overheated, and the inner walls stuck together. After exhausting all other troubleshooting steps, I pulled the hose, massaged it, reinstalled, and all was good. The old hose & tubing was in poor condition at all ends when removed.-
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Front Axles
Bearing hub to steering knuckle (replace bolts with new)
Stage 1..... 15 ft-lb
Stage 2..... additional 90 degree
Brake caliper to steering knuckle (replace bolts with new)
81 ft-lb
Brake disc to bearing hub (replace screws with new)
20 ft-lb
Drive axle outer CV joint to bearing hub (replace flange nut with new)
134 ft-lb
Road wheel to hub
103 +- 7 ft-lb
Wheel speed sensor to steering knuckle
6 ft-lb-
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
I've "fixed' three power steering pumps for club members so far, it's not a fun job but not impossible. I think just blowing the dust out is most of the fix, although on two I did take the armature out and machine it flat again - the wear is significant but there's quite a bit of material there if you're careful, and don't forget to undercut the mica. I also put new bearings in just in case, but none of the ones I replaced were noisey or grinding.
So far the oldest one I fixed has gone 40K more miles, and all three are still working. Not for the faint of heart, but it's a do-able repair.....-
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Keith, I for one appreciate all the post you do here as I'm picking up a lot of good info here that I'm soaking up like a sponge.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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