1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Today's Job

Any time a torque angle is specified, use new bolts. The original bolts can be measured for stretch against a new bolt, but because bolts can have varying features depending on manufacturer, it's possible to see a false measurement. Replacing a TTY bolt is safest.

The axle nut would "need" to be replaced if the soft sleeve was cracked, or badly deformed/thread damage from removing the original crimp. It can be reused and new crimp knocked into it.

 

A trend is forming, early model R50 CVT with non-belted hydraulic engine mount.




The other CVT engine suspension mounts tear dramatically also.

 

Another CVT trend, cracked & leaking transmission mount.




The mess from torn driveshaft boot.

 

Thank you for your concern. I can't say I'm safe due to the conditions, but no fires are threatening nearby.

 

There was a knock that seemed to be coming from the transmission, which turned out to be from the flywheel instead. The flywheel has a sprung secondary mass that is supposed to only move radially, this one moves in all directions.




It's time to have the input shaft bearing evaluated.

Having seen the level of failure in the engine/transmission suspension mounts, I think the CVT is a good candidate for a crankshaft vibration damper. There is a small rubber strip incorporated in the stock crank pulley, but I don't imagine it has much of a frequency damping range.

 

OEM front lower control arm replacement, out with the old, in with the new, and a modified strut spring tool to R&R the control arm.

 

The banjo is 22 lb-ft. If you want to try replacing the copper washer and positioning the bolt so it's not tweaking the line first, that's easy enough. However, as btwdriver said, most likely it is the fitting leaking and not the bolt.

 

Today's Job #11

An attempt at servicing a power steering pump with a history of cutting out at high temp. Unfortunately the armature axle would not release from the pump side bearing on this motor.




Normally the axle will come loose with a few taps on the end. The purpose of removing the armature is to access the electronic module located behind the brushes assembly.




The circuit board can short from magnetic brush dust, or the power pins can fry on their own. The above photo was borrowed from this thread, which also contains great info on common power steering pump failures.

The source of the damaging dust:





Huge black clouds of dust formed when I hit the motor with compressed air. The commutator can also become tarnished enough to stop the motor. Although easier to access with the armature removed, the commutator surface the brushes contact can be cleaned while in place.




If the high pressure fluid line is removed from the pump, always replace the O-ring.




With the pump off, it's a good time to replace bad clamps and add a crimp to the others.




On a completely different task. Suspension sockets are useful when installing new ball joints too.

 

Broken Belt




Hard to believe, the tensioner's tiny stop limiter did its job preventing damage to adjacent pulleys when the belt broke.





This early model crankshaft vibration damper was very close to separating.