So I am not Keith.. but I have done this. Usually the leaking is not coming from the actual bolt, but rather where the end of the hard pipe connects to the actual pipe. That being said, it wouldn't hurt to replace the bolt, I can't remember what the torque spec is. It is possible to remove and replace the oil line without removing the turbo. If you remove the downpipe and the heat shield that goes behind the down pipe against the block, you can snake the oil pipe out. If you are going to do this, pay close attention to how the old one comes out as it can be tricky to get the new one back in, but it can be done.
The banjo is 22 lb-ft. If you want to try replacing the copper washer and positioning the bolt so it's not tweaking the line first, that's easy enough. However, as btwdriver said, most likely it is the fitting leaking and not the bolt.
Thanks for your adivce, k-huevo and btwdriver, Good to know that oil pipe line can be replaced without turbo off. First I will try to torque the bolt with a torque wrench. and if it doesn't work, then replacing two crushed rings. Also my leak may from a bolt below turbo which is oil return line ( I guess) not from top bolt. Area around is wet but no puddle. Anyway I will try to torque it or replace two crush rings. thanks,
Today's Job #11 An attempt at servicing a power steering pump with a history of cutting out at high temp. Unfortunately the armature axle would not release from the pump side bearing on this motor. Normally the axle will come loose with a few taps on the end. The purpose of removing the armature is to access the electronic module located behind the brushes assembly. The circuit board can short from magnetic brush dust, or the power pins can fry on their own. The above photo was borrowed from this thread, which also contains great info on common power steering pump failures. The source of the damaging dust: Huge black clouds of dust formed when I hit the motor with compressed air. The commutator can also become tarnished enough to stop the motor. Although easier to access with the armature removed, the commutator surface the brushes contact can be cleaned while in place. If the high pressure fluid line is removed from the pump, always replace the O-ring. With the pump off, it's a good time to replace bad clamps and add a crimp to the others. On a completely different task. Suspension sockets are useful when installing new ball joints too.
Broken Belt Hard to believe, the tensioner's tiny stop limiter did its job preventing damage to adjacent pulleys when the belt broke. This early model crankshaft vibration damper was very close to separating.
Great timing.. My belt broke Saturday on my 2002 Cooper with 71K miles.. Got a new belt to get myself home, but waiting on a new pulley/damper from Way and hope to get if fixed for good next week.
I've "fixed' three power steering pumps for club members so far, it's not a fun job but not impossible. I think just blowing the dust out is most of the fix, although on two I did take the armature out and machine it flat again - the wear is significant but there's quite a bit of material there if you're careful, and don't forget to undercut the mica. I also put new bearings in just in case, but none of the ones I replaced were noisey or grinding. So far the oldest one I fixed has gone 40K more miles, and all three are still working. Not for the faint of heart, but it's a do-able repair.....
The Broken Belt MINI Returns This MINI has always been low, but when it drove up for maintenance, it was riding the bump stops. The middle coils on front springs were bound, and the rear springs sacked. The interesting thing about the springs is they're counterfeit Tein S-Techs, (fakes in the middle of the photo). The shocks were bad too of course. One guide support was torn and the tower on that side deformed also. I recently replaced the hydraulic engine mount, and it blew again. When I returned it for warranty replacement, one of the new mounts was leaking in the box. It didn't look much different than the bad one below.
The new MC2 Magazine shows MINI has released a new power steering pump fan to help prevent these problems. Have you guys looked at that yet? If it makes sense I'm interested in upgrading to the new one.
Sorry, not much documentation for this job, just a description. My first thought when this R52 S Cabrio wouldn't start was bad fuel. David, the Cabrio owner, performed a thorough troubleshoot and made an accurate fuel pump failure diagnosis. I attached a fuel pressure gauge and confirmed it was not delivering fuel. David also checked the circuit back to the pump and all was good except for the pump. We decided to replace the fuel filter while replacing the pump. Since the tank was recently filled (one reason I first suspected bad fuel), David siphoned as much fuel as he could. In the process a gate in the filler neck pinched the siphon hose, which limited the amount of fuel that could be removed. Extracting the captured hose was time consuming, plus serious and comical at the same time. Precautions to protect the cabin from inevitable fuel spillage were needed. David had a mattress cover that was perfect for covering the area. Below I'm attempting to make a tight seal around the tank ports to prevent fuel drips from seeping in around the edges. The fuel filter was mostly clean, unlike the black filters I normally find. The cannister didn't have black brackish fuel inside either. Here's a very good how-to for replacing the pump & filter that will have to do for the photos. When it comes to removing the brown clip from the coupler (figure 13), try to attach it some way to the end of the tube. I put a wire twisty on it, but it dislodged when I put the new pump in and moved way down the tube in the tank anyway; retrieval was messy for me. As it turns out, most likely bad fuel caused the pump to seize. The tank was filled at Costco a few days before the failure. David eventually received a notice from Costco that fuel pump failures had been reported during the same period when he filled up. He filed a claim and received reimbursement for the parts and labor.
Couldn't the line be replaced with a braided stainless oil line like is used in a brake application with the proper size banjo fittings? Just a thought, we used those type of lines on our helicopters all the time and I'm sure that the turbine engines we used reached much higher temps than a turbo does. And those lines didn't leak.
The scary thing is the Cobra/GT500 LSD right above it is basically 1/4 the price of the SVT unit. ...Man, I'm really starting to think I need to dump the MINI and go back to Mustangs. SO. MUCH. CHEAPER. :eek6: