1st Gen R53 Cooper S Today's Job

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by k-huevo, Dec 21, 2010.

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  1. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

    Jun 12, 2009
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    :Thumbsup:
     
  2. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

    May 6, 2009
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    Who knows where the cut came from, between dealership and lube shop oil changes, could have been either.

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    It's been frustrating dealing with broken connectors and rounded bolt heads; they're always in difficult to get to places. Obviously the installer of the last clutch buggered a bolt and had to scrounge for a replacement. The lower bolt in the photo below is non-MINI.

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    Finally some hot rod work. An OS Giken Super Lock LSD is ready to go.

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    The second OEM clutch & flywheel for this R56 JCW. At this point it's hard to tell if the flywheel's secondary mass separated and caused the damage, or track abuse cooked the flywheel causing separation. In either case the outer section can turn over ninety degrees before the inner catches up.

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    Next stop, rivet city. A big pile of dust dropped out when I opened the cover.

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    The flywheel's heat ring.

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    The pressure plate.

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  3. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2009
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    So how many miles and how many track miles are on that clutch. Looks like they were trying to pull tractor trailers with this MINI.
     
  4. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    It's Gene's Valhalla.
     
  5. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    What? Oh man, I simply did not know that Gene pulled big rigs with his MINI in between track events. How can he already be on clutch #3 ? (Rhetorical)
     
  6. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    #26 k-huevo, Jan 16, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011
    Anatomy of an OS Giken Clutch

    This is the race ready version for the R56. At almost 29lb without the release bearing, it is not exactly light weight, but still a little more than 7lb less than OEM. These are hefty components, the pressure ring is massive with 9 load bearing points, and the friction material is robust metal.

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    The clutch release bearing weighs a lot by itself.

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    A tip for installing the release bearing on an R56, position the snap ring ends within the opening on the release arm to prevent snagging.

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    Some R56 installations require the OEM flywheel bolts to be shortened to clear the engine block. For the R53 new bolts come with the kit, but because there appears to be a variance in part dimensions for the later model, there's a chance the modification won't be needed for some R56 installs. I hope OS engineers will see fit to include new bolts with the R56 kit in the future.

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    3mm is removed from flywheel bolts for this installation.

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    The clutch kit finally goes on.

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  7. lathedog

    lathedog New Member

    Oct 3, 2010
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    Shame to hide that inside the housing. Looks soo nice..lol
     
  8. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Agreed, that is purdy.
     
  9. kimberlein

    kimberlein New Member

    Jan 1, 2010
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    #29 kimberlein, Jan 16, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2011
    And yowwww, cool lathe! :yesnod:
     
  10. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    I don't normally advocate the use of polyurethane, but for a tracked or lowered R56, they're a worthwhile replacement for the front control arm bushings. The OEMs were torn, BTW.

    Out with the old, and in with the new.

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  11. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2009
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    Well, that is a change of faith. Was this ~30K mi, sometimes tracked vehicle still on the original OEM bushings?

    I killed my first set on my R53 at 15K mi, and since I am close to 30K I also may be due soon and have been considering what to replace them with.
     
  12. M^Cubed

    M^Cubed Member

    May 24, 2009
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    I think I'll have to drive to Texas to get my diff+clutch done when it comes time to do so.

    Keith - I recommend checking this stuff out for poly bushing installs - (Cobra Valley's Chemicals - Poly Eaze Polyurethane Lubricant)

    Lynn and I went through the hassle of calling a few different companies and finding out what is and is not suitable for poly bushings - fact is, not much out there really is since petroleum is used as the soap in pretty much all lubricants. For the price, this stuff is superb!

    Thanks for the awesome writeup!
     
  13. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    The product I use, Super lube, is ideal for polyurethane and rubber. It is non-toxic and has an operating range of -45F to +450F. It will not wash away. I use it on all rubber except coolant O-rings and hoses, where a water soluble lubricant is better suited. I'm well aware what happens to polyurethane when petroleum distillate based products like anti-seize and chassis lube are used.
     
  14. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    Stock bushings are still the best for the R53. If you car is lowered, they can be installed a few degrees from the original position, so they're not pre-twisted.

    The wheel liner on one side was bent inward causing it to bind between upper spring coils. It wouldn't lose the crease, so I cut it down.

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    The clutch was working fine while on stands, but when I stepped on the pedal to start the car, it went straight to the floor. The clutch fluid hose had separated from the master's pipe, fluid went everywhere as I kept pumping the pedal. The retainer was missing (WTH?), I cannibalized a spare clutch slave for the retainer clip, and promptly lost it, oops. Fortunately I have more junkers; just out of brake fluid.

    Valhalla waits...

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  15. ColinGreene

    ColinGreene Well-Known Member
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    May 15, 2009
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    What makes you say that the stock bushings are best?
    Just curious cause i know ill be doing mine shortly.
    Any advice on the bolts for the inner ball joint bolts that simply will not budge?
     
  16. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    #36 k-huevo, Jan 27, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2011
    A poly bushing will not wear out, it will only need lube maintenance, it is superior on that point, but the OEM bushing will provide unfettered performance. The R53 arm rocks as well as rotates, the arm rolls over the inner ball joint, so the pivot shaft also moves fore and aft while it rocks and rotates. A poly bushing limits movement to one axis on one plane. On an R53 the arm wants to rock/swipe and rotate, but the limits applied by the poly bushing create resistance to the rock. I'm leaving out effect on toe fore and aft movement creates, so this is simplified to some extent.

    Below is a comparison photo of the control arm brackets, R56 to the left, R53 on the right. The R56 arm and bushing is near horizontal, the R53 bushing is at an angle. Also consider the strut is at a shallower angle to the pivot on the R53.

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    An impact wrench is my recommendation for stubborn bolts.
     
  17. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    May 4, 2009
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    That is why I love my Alta PSRS bushing replacement. Freedom of movement.
     
  18. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    The Alta part dictates caster compromises and has an effect on dynamic camber angles as a result. It also limits the swipe motion engineered into the arm to account for the arm's travel arc across the inner ball joint.
     
  19. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    Please explain further as I found no evidence of any restriction of any available motion. And I am not sure what caster compromises you are referring to.
     
  20. FUEGO

    FUEGO Club Coordinator

    May 4, 2009
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    Wow! Gene's MINI has had a real workout, and subsequent work-over! Major props to you Keith as the penultimate mechanic - documenting every step of the process and sharing it with the rest of us. The OS Giken clutch and LSD are on my list for replacements for OEM parts on my R53 (eventually). I may just head south to let you do the work rather than attempt to do it myself. Thanks for posting the process and the oddities found along the way!
     

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