Agreed, I'm learning a lot here. Makes me wish I had a mechanic in this area that was half as competent. - Andrew
I've tried a few different approaches to filling the first generation coolant system after a total coolant evacuation with varying results; this method has been consistently successful. I siphon coolant mix into the upper bleed port on the radiator hose, when coolant back flows, the cap is replaced, and additional coolant is added to the expansion tank to below the max mark. After the engine is brought up to operating temp, allow to cool, slowly release pressure from the expansion tank cap, then open the bleed screw till fluid escapes, add coolant to the expansion tank to reach the max mark. Before the first drive of the day after a complete cool down, check the coolant level in the expansion tank and add if needed. I've never had an air gap in the system when using this method.
This is a great thread - K-huevo's willing to help others is unparalleled! Thanks Keith for all you do for the MINI community.
Great method and wow.....That new expansion tanks looks great, mine is a bit yellowed after 5+ years, and I had forgotten how white it looked when new.
The whiter ones were the first gen tanks. They were replaced by the yellower ones after the first ones started splitting.
The guys at MINI of dallas have a 5 gallon glass carbouy (large, thick glass tank) that they pressurize with an air line and use it to push fresh coolant through the system. I'll try to take a better look at the next DIY day.
Today's Job #3 Revisited, Again, and Again, and Again... Another diverter valve failure. This time we're attempting a fix with the inner workings of a VAG BPV, transplanted into the body of the MINI BPV. The VAG unit is rated to handle much greater boost than the 22 psi Gene's modified JCW produces, and its elaborate Escutcheon eliminates the problematic MINI DV diaphragm. I contacted Stelios Alexandrakis at Etuners some time ago about this upgrade, but haven't had the opportunity to try it until Gene lost another stock unit recently. It would be great if the VAG were a direct bolt-up, I've read the coil is a bit quicker than the MINI DV, however, the bolt holes don't line up. The good news is the connectors for the VAG body and the MINI harness are available, in fact the jumper supplied with the Forge unit has both ends. Perhaps someday a different turbo might be needed that has the VAG bolt center diameter. In the mean time, Forge supplied us with an updated BPV body, which has an additional nipple that would connect to the previously open port on their solenoid. If the hybrid MINI/VAG unit continues to function as it should, we may not need it. The software connection with the root cause for these repeated failures is also being investigated.
Great hybrid approach, I hope it works out! I am aware of no others with this software that are experiencing these same failures. This leads me to believe that there is a hardware difference that is yet unknown. This vehicle needs a boost gauge, and some simple ECU data-logging that includes boost at the very least. However, I realize that you have an advisory role here. BTW, did the BOV expire on track like the others?
I just did this VAG conversion on my MCS and it is taking my RMW tune MUCH better than the stock DV. I was having problems up around 18lbs of boost but now I get a slight stumble at about 19.5-20lbs (around 140mph) Stock tune it has increased my boost levels about 1-2lbs as well.
Kev 3 of us just ordered this upgraded DV Diverter Valve (2.0T, Updated "D" Version) - 06H145710D at EuropaParts.com | Free Shipping!. Are we going to have problems with the bolt holes not lining up?
Swap the internals, the plug for the wiring is not the same. I didn't look if the bolt holes line up but since you will only replace the internals it doesn't matter.
Today's Job #7 My camera isn't working, so no photos of this Cooper job. I looked it over a couple weeks ago and filled a page with part numbers in preparation for its extended stay. When it arrived for service the customer commented on how the car was vibrating on the road; I already knew all the rubber mounts on the engine were torn or collapsed, so I was expecting something along that type of vibration. After driving about two hundred yards, I turned around expecting a wheel to fall off, it felt like riding an unbalanced washing machine. When I removed the right front tire, one section was parabolic shaped, another section flat on one side, another section was square, and the tread grooves snaked in curves, plus it had a sidewall bulge in one spot. I assume the tread separated and it would have soon peeled off. This is an automatic BTW. I needed to replace the radiator support, among other things, with the front and airbox removed I could see dark purple stains over the gearbox and mount, at first I thought it was ATF, but then I saw tiny bubbles at the top of the transmission mount when I wiggled the engine. The transmission mount was cracked, allowing the mount bushing's hydraulic dampening fluid to escape. I didn't know until now that bushing was fluid filled. This engine has taken some whacks in its life, recent evidence looked like it had run over a cinder block, the deformed tire probably sent the mount over the edge.
Photos from Job#7 The leaking bracket. The bracket crack. Torn mount bushing, the other side was just as bad. The pitch control bushing was torn completely through. Separated hydraulic engine mount damper.
Wow, I think the owner just might notice a difference. BTW, how many miles, and how was the bottom dogbone mount?